June-July, August 2009 and October 2009 - Gilmore-Yosemite Economy Runs and Gilmore Grand Canyon Economy Run December 2009 - Mobilgas Economy Runs 1950-1968
The Gilmore era predates the Mobilgas Runs and the Gilmore Run articles are some of the best overviews written (very little has been written about these previously) before the publication in 2014 of my Economy Run book. All are well written by D. L. Cole in my opinion.
Was about to restore this and hang it in my garage. Saw the sticker on the back and decided to check it out. Just wanted more info on it. Now im thinking on waiting. Any ideas what i got here? Stock photo. Mine is torn down. All original parts from what I can tell.
Also, if you go the "Showcase and Stories" forum and click on Page 6, the G&B T-176 pumps were featured in the May 2017 "Pump of the Month" posting. There are several photos of T-176s (including mine in American Gas colors) that you can look at.
I am sorry, but for a reason I am not sure how to correct, this site won’t allow me to search the archives past June 2017?
There is a button when doing your search that you can select to change the date.
The mechanism that engages the hand reset "mode" is broken off and without that mechanism, I cannot make the gallon hands reset to zero. Attached are photos of the bracket. It has numerous rods with sprockets attached to it. If someone has a complete clockface mechanism, I would consider purchasing it. Not all 850 clock mechanisms were the same. My pump has the clock mechanism associated with pump serial numbers 369,972 - 499,999.
I see this FORD sign is two-sided, and with reasonably good porcelain. Since the can is included, I'm thinking this sign value (to me) is in the $8,000 to $10,000 range these days. Just my opinion, of course. I should note that I'm conservative by nature! By the way, I don't think the broken neon affects the value by all that much. That is expected by many collectors in a "as-found" neon sign. And, in my opinion, correctly repaired or replaced neon won't hurt the value much at some future point in time. After all, every sign collector wants these things to light up! Of course, a sign that was not originally punched for neon, but has been made into a neon sign is an entirely different story. Obviously, that's not the case here.
TWO guys had to think that first FORD sign at the Miller auction was worth the $20,000+ price. I realize what Jim is saying about the prices at the Miller auction being on the top end, and I feel the same way. However, how many times over the past five years or so, have we seen what seemed like high auction prices for these goodies become the new normal? In my mind, there's no doubt that high auction prices push prices up in general. Sure, we still might come upon a seller who doesn't know gas and oil things, or who hasn't kept up with prices over the past decade....but ask yourself, how often does that happen any more (compared to ten years ago)? John
Does anyone know the inner dimensions of a model A crank handle? I got a great old crank easel that is missing it's crank arm and thought to look at automotive crank arms as a possible replacement (could not find listings under crank easels for just the crank arm). The easel has a 1.25 inch long square that's about 3/8" to a side. I'm using a 7/8 star socket wrench (only one of the two 7/8 that I have fits it--so it's a little bit of an odd size) which is not ideal because it's not deep enough. And yeah I know 3/8 is less than 7/8 but it's a square and the socket is a star if that explains anything. I tried to go to mm that was between 7/8 and 1/2 but that didn't work. I thought if the crank hole was close to 3/8 I could file it to fit...probably wishful thinking! lol
Looking back, the stuff seemed exceeding high for some and average for others. Does it make everyones stuff worth more ? Maybe or Maybe not, hard to gauge if someone uses that as a scale to draw from. As Ron Henderson always told me, Willing buyer and willing seller, and each time he goes it seems different.
The image of the knob shown in the Repair Parts Manual may be all we get. I drilled out the broken off brass shaft and tapped it. I threaded a machine screw into the shaft and now ready to find a knob and attach it. I will let you know what I come up with. My switch mounts to the switch cover plate with two small slot drive machine screws; not like the image depicts. The switch appears to mount to the sides of the switch box in the parts manual diagram.
If you’re going to leave the guts in, take those components apart and clean the insides and/or soak the insides. I use simple green. It’s not too hard to get most pump parts apart to clean the inside. After all they had to go together at one point. You’ll be surprised how much gas can still be in some of the parts.
Repop plates are available. Waynes clocks may have them and possibly Petrorelics. Id try petro relics first. The edges are turned down on the plates. Ive seen lots of different layouts and font sizes and even some slogans on the plates. i have a repop plate somewhere . if it turns up, Ill get a picture and exact size for you. I wonder if the blue flaked off? It wasnt painted over? Id get that restored PS -yes -thats the date your clock was made . PSS. Heres another I have to show you how faded it is and how the painting on the numbers seemed to hang in there.