Fixing outlet pipe on Fry 117 - options? - Mon Jun 15 2020 05:16 PM
Hey guys,
I need to rethread the 1 1/4" outlet pipe on my Fry 117. I cut off the old fitting on the end of this pipe to thread on a repop gate valve. Unfortunately, when I did that, I didn't consider how much pipe I needed to leave to allow a rethreading die to fit on the pipe to rethread the end. So now, I have a length of pipe that is too short for the standard rethreading tool. So here are my options as I see them:
1. Find a rethreading tool that only needs 1 1/2" of exposed pipe for rethreading. Do these even exist?
2. Heat the pipe to try and break it loose. I feel like that creates a lot of risk of breaking the cylinder (which is original). That CANNOT happen. Is that really as big a risk as I think it is? I'm not sure how much I could heat the jar base without risking cracking the cylinder.
3. Stick a sawzall blade in the pipe and make two cuts parallel to each other along the length of the pipe and then drive out that wedge. That should weaken the pipe enough to get the remaining pipe out of the jar base without having to heat it. This is a theory but I think that would work.
Obviously option #1 would be best but I haven't found a tool to do this yet. After that, I'm thinking option #3. Are there any other options I'm not thinking of?
I need to rethread the 1 1/4" outlet pipe on my Fry 117. I cut off the old fitting on the end of this pipe to thread on a repop gate valve. Unfortunately, when I did that, I didn't consider how much pipe I needed to leave to allow a rethreading die to fit on the pipe to rethread the end. So now, I have a length of pipe that is too short for the standard rethreading tool. So here are my options as I see them:
1. Find a rethreading tool that only needs 1 1/2" of exposed pipe for rethreading. Do these even exist?
2. Heat the pipe to try and break it loose. I feel like that creates a lot of risk of breaking the cylinder (which is original). That CANNOT happen. Is that really as big a risk as I think it is? I'm not sure how much I could heat the jar base without risking cracking the cylinder.
3. Stick a sawzall blade in the pipe and make two cuts parallel to each other along the length of the pipe and then drive out that wedge. That should weaken the pipe enough to get the remaining pipe out of the jar base without having to heat it. This is a theory but I think that would work.
Obviously option #1 would be best but I haven't found a tool to do this yet. After that, I'm thinking option #3. Are there any other options I'm not thinking of?
