I've been offered a pump if I'll disconnect it and take it away.
It's a Canadian Gilbarco 1006, 2 sided pump in not bad shape, straight, bit rusty, couple of small rust holes in the skin on one side near the bottom. Unbranded, Painted green, plexi panels say "Regular." No globe, but there is a knockout for one.
This pump is not in service - hasn't been for many years - but is still connected to the underground tank and electricity.
Any advice on what is involved in safely removing this pump? I have no problem with the electricity - it is connected to a modern breaker panel that can be locked out.
But - how do I safely remove it and cap the suction pipe? I have not been able to look inside yet, and have no idea what's in there.
Plus - even though I have been offered the pump gratis, what's it worth? I don't want the man to think I've ripped him off. I don't have any book for reference (yet...).

Never done a pump. Should be fun...

Thanks in advance.

[This message has been edited by silent chief (edited 03-13-2006).]

If it is attached to an underground tank, try to find out if there is fuel. If you can take the pipe apart with a pipe wrench you should be good to go. If you have to cut the pipe, be careul. If you use a Sawzall there can be sparks. A hacksaw is labor intensive, but safer. Underground tanks (in the US) are supposed to be pumped out and removed. If you can tap a cap ontop that is good. I have seen them with a rag stuffed inthem as well. Not sure of value as i don't have my book. Good luck

Good pump for your first resto. I couldn't find it in Jacks book, but if it is like a GB 102 value would 250, but in my area they would be about 100 so would be a fair exchange for thaking it out. I fit is a twin pump like a GB 1026 then book value is 750. I agree with Alex shouldn't be much trouble getting it out. Make sure you bring along some long cheater pipes for your pipe wrenches, the original pipe fittings can be stuborn. I usually ground the pump out with jumpercables, habit, to many years working around aircraft and static electricity. Have fun and lets see some pictures of the pump when you get it home.

The pump will be connected with a union to the underground tank. NO CUTTING REQUIRED.
I always keep wire nuts, electical tape & 1 1/4", 1 1/2" & 2" caps on my truck for capping off the pipe.
Dick

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**PUT A LID ON IT**
1qt CAN RE-LIDDING

Don't know what it's worth but the price is right!

Chances are you will find the pump lagged down with 4 bolts that will need removed, and connected to the suction pipe down to the tank via a union, maybe 1.5". The union could be real tight but if you smack it pretty hard with medium sledge hammer from as many sides as you can hit it, it should come right off with the pipe wrenches. Remove the bottom of the union left on the pipe, put a pipe cap on. Don't forget the wire nuts to make it look official. Still could be "Old Gas" in the pump & meter w/you tip it over to load it..... and it's a lot heavier than it looks.

Sounds good on paper, hope it goes better for you than my recent pump removal story.
(notice my smiley has safety glasses on and his hair is singed off)
GOOD LUCK, HAVE FUN!


*dang, didn't know it took me that long to type that, DB beat me to it*


[This message has been edited by tokheim (edited 03-13-2006).]

tokheim,
You talking about a FIRE ?
After getting pumps to my storage yard, I would use a TORCH to gut the pump. ONLY had 1 FIRE, it burnt like diesel, OLD DIESEL !

Best part about dumping OLD GASOLINE in the bed of your truck. You're REMINDED every time you get close,
THAT YOU SCORED ANOTHER PUMP !!
GAWDDD, WHAT A GREAT FEELING !!
Dick

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**PUT A LID ON IT**
1qt CAN RE-LIDDING

No fire but could have been bad, the pump was dry/old/vapor free and the tank apparently was also. Keep in mind I'm still new at this, and the Wayne 70 was locked up tight, all glass and doors on, couldn't get in it so we just rocked it around till the suction pipe pulled out of the pump manifold and the anchors pulled out of the blocks it was on. The owner sold it to me but didn't tell the guy who rented the place so he comes out thinking two guys are stealing this pump at night in the headlights of the truck and was pretty grouchy. I asked him to shut the power off and he says sure..about a min later the pump light goes out... So my friend is holding the pump at an angle and I'm up to my shoulder underneath, I get a firm grip on the heavy wire with my linemans pliers, bite down on it and it looked like the Fourth of JULY with the sparks flying, you could have read a newspaper on the ground. Turns out the breaker only shut off the lights and the pump power was jumped off the 220 submersible well pump a couple feet away.
Every five to ten minutes on the way home my SOB buddy would start chuckling.. I'd gance over and give him the now what look and he'd say, man you should have seen your face, your eyes were this big, he, he etc...

It was funny after the fact, but fresh gas and I could have been Torched Tok, and I should have known better.

NEVER cut 2 wires at same time, it'll GET YA !!
DB

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**PUT A LID ON IT**
1qt CAN RE-LIDDING

All good information - thanks!

I'll get some pictures once the weather calms down a bit, and I'll get to the removal as soon as it warms up a bit.

Looks like 2 24" pipe wrenches, a sledge, a "persuader bar" (wrench handle extender), and some penetrating oil are in order. And a strong friend who will work for beer...

I'll be watching the Pump Restoration thread with interest. Will have to strip this pump and fill a few holes in one skin.

Silent Chief: Also, go out a few days ahead if you can and put the penetrating oil on and let it soak. I was undoing a pipe and the farmer's son (who played pro football) couldn't get the pipes broke a part. Had to cut them.

Rereading this thread got me to thinking about all of the safety we should observe when getting a pump, lifting a heavy sign, dealing with old gas etc. Safety glasses, gloves, enough help to lift are things that should be considered. While we all have a good laugh at the "ones we survived," it would be sad to get hurt and have the pump or sign be a constant reminder. Be safe.

Yes, I'll be very cognizant of safety. I spent 18 years in a refinery dealing with exactly these types of hazards - in a refinery, you're in a controlled environment. Out in the real world, stuff can sneak up on ya if yer not careful...

Here it is in the wild.


This is the bad side. several rust perforations. The other side is better, faces north, no sun fading, but lots of surface rust.

This is the front:


From the back, hose side:


Apparently, pump was in service until a couple of years ago. Hose is sound and flexible.



[This message has been edited by silent chief (edited 03-14-2006).]

Nice little pump, you'll have fun restoring it. Richard

Save your BACK & the BEER, get a PUMP LOADER.

This will lift 1500 lbs. & doesn't drink BEER !! LOL
Dick

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**PUT A LID ON IT**
1qt CAN RE-LIDDING

Got to it today. Here it is skins off:



One of the lower skins is pretty rusty and holed in many places. May not be worth rescuing.

How to remove a union - the only thing holding down this pump. Two wrenches and Realeasall.



Here it is disconnected and stripped. It's still really heavy! Can't figure out how to get the motor out. Gonna hit the conduit with the Sawzall tomorrow - enough for today!



Now, if somebody could teach me how to take a decent picture with this camera, I'd really have something, wouldn't I?



[This message has been edited by silent chief (edited 03-20-2006).]

Skins. There are four, two top, two bottom. One of the bottom skins (the one shown is the good one) is pretty badly rusted out. Good news is, the plexi windows are in really good shape - no cracks, no fading - pump was in the shade. Now I need real help - never done any body work - ever...

Be sure to read the "Restoration of the Month" feature..... Though it sounds like your skins need a little bit more help. Send me a pic or two, of the damaged area. We might be able to get a fix for you.... Congratulations on the pump. It looks like it will clean up nice....

Hey Silent Chief.
Cool pump man, don't get discouraged, that will be a great pump when it's done. Follow Thunder's restoration post, ask questions, go to the Library, read books and magazines, visit Bodyshops, ask anyone on here, but "get 'er done!" You'll do fine be patient. There are alot of Bodymen by trade on here including myself that can guide you in the right direction.
Ken.

Just have fun with the pump, if you have a problem just walk away from it for a while. We all started like you so don't get discouraged. You have alot of support on this site. When using bondo, it's better to use to little at first until you get the hang of it. Remember when you put too much on you have to sand it off. If you have a question just ask. Richard

I dont think that Bondo would be stable enough for rusted out areas. If money was no problem, I would suggest fabricating a new lower portion, cutting out the rusted areas, then welding the new section in.

A mre affordalble way would be to clean the area, apply mesh drywall tape on the back side, then start to layer JB Weld. I would use the five minute stuff, in a situation like this, it will cause less problems. From there, finish the front side with the normal, Bondo, prime, paint steps.....

Keep us informed Cheif, and post lost of pics....

Silent Chief, have fun working on this pump and the ones you will get later. Gas pumps are like peanuts can't stop at one. You have gotten some excellent advise and I'm sure you will get more. As Richard said if you run into a problem walk away, drink a cold drink, check out this web site, let the cobwebs clear. Can be assured that what ever you are working on will turn out worse if you try to plow ahead(experience talking). Also if there is a community college in your area check to see if they have a college course on body repair and welding. If so I strongly recommend taking the courses. And as I fall off my soap box, never use bondo as a substitute for metal, it is made to fill in low spots and to smooth the metal. If you have small areas that need replacing sheet metal is first choice, fiberglas is second choice. With either one make sure the area is free of rust,grease and oils. This includes oils from your skin. Good luck, and remember if you have a problem, someone will mostly likely be able to help or steer you in the right direction to get the help you need.

All good advice and encouragement. Thanks to all!

Finally got all the pieces home tonight. The one lower skin is in fact pretty well shot - was shedding chunks in the back of the truck on the way home! Mostly the six layers of paint holding it together (pump was originally Navy Blue).
Pump plate says it was put in service 7-20-1956. Owner says he never touched it, never adjusted the price since it was a private pump - price is set at 22 9/10 cents per gallon. And that's an Imperial gallon!
As a coincidence, as we were loading the pump, a local sheet metal guy stopped and said he could make me a skin! Didn't ask how much, but I will take it in and get a price. He didn't seem to think it would be too big a deal! We'll see.
This is good news, because I have Scottish ancestry, and am therefore "frugal..."

More pics to follow - camera batteries are dead right now.


[This message has been edited by silent chief (edited 03-22-2006).]

See? There ya go, things are already falling into place. You were meant to have this pump and more will come, you waite and see. Get those batteries charged!
Ken.

That is a nice looking little pump. Does anyone know the difference between the Canada Pumps and the American Pumps from the same companies?

I would think they would be like the old Ford Model T's === only the SN numbers are different on them - they start with C- and say made in Canada...


Travis E. Towle
Topeka, Kansas

785-357-1004

Here it is in it's eventual new home position. I got lucky - what I thought was plexiglass panels turned out to be glass. No cracks, no chips.
Probably do it in Texaco Fire Chief.