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Omine enamel paint question

Just painted a pump tonight with this brand enamel – got 2 runs.

Need to know MINUMNM time I should to wait to be able to file out the runs and buff them out without destroying the paint.

Thanks in advance.

Travis E. Towle
Topeka, Kansas

785-357-1004

here is one thing you may run in to ..some times on enamels and mostly with cheaper ones is when you wet sand the era it will change color on you ..you may want sand the runs out and repaint the panel centari is the best enamel ive found for buffing ..

Travis...is it acrylic enamel, or alkyd enamel? Cure time will be different on different types, heat will speed the cure time up considerably so you can sand the runs. One tip which youmay already be using..do you paint the panels in the same plane that they will be installed on the pump? I.E., a vertical panel should be painted in the vertical plane, and a horizontal panel painted horizontally. You can also try to reduce your mix a bit more than you have been and/or slightly increase gun pressure to forestall those runs. Best of luck!

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Robert Usrey

Hi Travis,
I assume you didn't heat the surface. Careful heating with an infrared lamp will speed cure dramatically. With room temperature air dry, I'd wait 24 hours on Omni clear with the proper hardener added.
Run areas take much longer to dry than normal thickness paint film. If you rush it, you may hit a soft area under the surface and it will never look right unless you repaint. A run file is more dangerous in that regard than sanding.
I hope you're using a tiny run file that is sold by auto paint stores instead of a regular file. Even with that, it is very possible to gouge the surface. Block sanding wet in steps with 1000, 1200, 1500 then 2000 should flatten it out.
The only time I've seen color changes is with metallics, when not enough time is allowed between color and clear or when tiny bubbles form below the run surface.
If I were painting at 2 am, I'd probably get runs too. LOL

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Jim "Oldgas" Potts
Your host and moderator

Those are called signatures,not runs.LOL

old gas he said enamel not clear ..

Thanks for the replys guys this is my first time using automotive paint for the pumps! This was acrylic enamel.

I used the nic files to bring the runs down, then block sanded with 220, 400, 600, 1200, and 2000. The runs are coming out just fine, BUT now in one spot I sanded too much and cut through to primer.

I have heard that with this type of paint I can just use the touch up gun and spot it in the area I need to touch up and mist out to the edges. Then when it drys I can wet sand and polish up the pump and this touch up will not show. Will this really work or do I need to just scuff up and repaint the whole thing again?


Travis E. Towle
Topeka, Kansas

785-357-1004

Travis:

I've had good luck 'spot knocking' the mistakes.

Use a small gun and don't put a lot of paint on the spot to be repaired. Just enough to cover the primer and leave you enough to sand/buff.

I use a second small gun with just reducer in it as a final mist. I put J U S T enough reducer on the repair to make it 'wet'. This will help level out the paint mist on the edges of the repair and make them easier to sand later.

Hope this helps.

Later . . .

Jim

travis ,people say runs are the sign of a sloppy painter.thats wrong.to hit the highest possiable shine you go right up to the edge and get it very wet next stage is a run.

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packrat