Primarily Petroliana Shop Talk Forums Shop Talk Petroliana Forums General Petroliana Discussion Removing glass cylinder from a visible pump

I'd be surprised if this hasn't been discussed in depth but I can't find it by searching "removing cylinder" in the search function. Is there any way anyone has found that improves the possibility of removing a glass cylinder from a visible pump without breaking it? I just bought a Fry 117 with the Rush top conversion that has an original cylinder in it with the original cement. There is less than an 1/8" of cement between the glass and the lip on the iron base. Not much room to get a carbide bit on a die grinder in there. Has anyone ever tried sulfuric acid? The cement has the appearance of a lime or calcium based cement. I think a strong acid eats those two things. I thought about trying a few drips to see what happened. I have read one entry in the past where the recommendation was made to slowly release pressure on the rods by turning them slightly in a progressive fashion. Any other ideas? Thanks

...get a carbide bit on a die grinder...
DON'T even think of using it
use a small drill bit with your thumb & index finger & make lots of holes all the way around cyl. Pour Brake Fluid on & let it sit for a few days to let it soften. Using a seal pick, work @ getting the Litharge Glycerin out, add more brake fluid as needed.

So that's what that stuff is. Doing a quick search on the net gave a definition: "Mixture of glycerin, water, and litharge (lead monoxide) to give, when cured, an acid-resistant cement." That sure answers the question about the Sulfuric Acid. Thanks

& Don't get in a Hurry, might take 3 cases or Kegs of suds Before your done !
Hopefully your over 18 so you won't do something stupid when you drink!

What? I've been over 18 for 28 years and still do stupid things when I drink. It's just a darn good thing I don't drink very often!!

I have had to stay away from the drill bits because the glass is so close and I didn't want to screw it up. I have found dental tools to work very well when softened and even before. Sometimes even lacquer thinner works. Slow and cautious though, and that dental tool works great. Do not breath in or use anything that would cause air flow though. I have been told it is toxic and if you did then use a respirator.

Mike, I've always had good luck with muratic acid. It doesn't evaporate like laquer thinner does. Even though the compound is supposed to be resistant to acid......it never seems to work out that way. I guess that it's due to the age and time apparently breaks down it's toughness? Good luck, Paul www.severngaspumps.com

And DON'T do it where it's cold. I think the cold makes the glass more prone to breakage.

Dicks idea seems like the best answer. I have three broken cylinders that I kept just to remind me of what NOT to do.Each one of them broke after I had gotten the top loose and released pressure off the glass, and while working on the bottom with such things as sharpened hack saw blades, thin pointed screwdrivers and assorted acids, the d--m thing broke while I was drinking coffee 10ft. away.I guessed I have the Jarvis, jinx.Best of luck! Norm.

Never use Muriatic Acid on Galvanized castings, aluminum or pot metal. Chemical reaction WILL happen. Destroys galv, alum & pot [white] metal.
Works good @ removing rust, use Household Baking Soda [Arm & Hammer] mixed w/ water for Neutralizing the acid, then a clean water rinse & heat gun Dry.

When loosening rods, Soak ea. w/ penetrating oil [loosen-all, WD-40, Nuts-Off, etc] & take a BEER Break. # ea in a crisscross pattern w/ felt pen. Never loosen more than a 1/4 turn ea, do all & let it sit for awhile, longer @ 1st ENJOY the rest of 6 Pak. Next day loosen all 1/4 turn, start on another 6 Pak.
Take your time to release the Tension on the rods & ENJOY your BEER. Saving a cylinder from Breaking, will let you buy ALOT of Beer, better than spending ALOT of Beer money to Buy a Replacement cylinder.

I like your work method!!!

Maybe I should have been drinking beer instead of coffee, sounds like it works better.

DB great method LOL

Paint thinner will work on the putty that was used on the old pumps. Just pour the thinner around the bottom of the cylinder and it will leach into the old putty and soften it. You may also have to scar the putty with a box cutter for deeper leaching into the putty. Remove all rods before you attempt to remove the cylinder make sure you chris cross the hold down nuts a little at a time to relieve the tension.

I'm great at drinking beer! Not so good with patience! My cylinder broke! I'm still bummed and haven't touched that pump since that day!!