#244320
Wed Mar 30 2011 02:51 PM
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Joined: Jan 2011
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 393 Likes: 7 |
What is a good way to paint the raised letters on a lollipop base with out making a mess of it????
Gas Pumps, Farmall tractors and 1968 Chevrolet Impalas
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Please - NO offers to Buy or Sell in this forum category
Statements such as, "I'm thinking about selling this." are considered an offer to sell.
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Wanted early tin litho signage. petro, farm, auto, etc.
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Joined: Sep 2004
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A hard rubber roller, with "one shot" sign painters paint. What I do is tape down two pieces of paper to my work surface. a use a small throw away syringe (SP?) to pull the paint out of the can and to apply to the paper. This way you can control the amount of paint you apply to the paper, and also control the mess you make. Carefully roll the roller in the paint but do not get it on the edges. With the other piece of paper you roll the roller on it until the paint starts to stick or making a "sticky" noise. You can now carefully roll the roller on your base leaving a quality finish. It works I have done it several times with great results.
Joey
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I steal my wifes makeup sponges and gently brush the letters.
Scott Wright
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Joey thanks for the step by step. WE used to do something like that with block printing. I think the rollers are available at art supply stores. Thanks for the reminder. And Recycle68 thanks for the question.
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or you could try masking the raised letters, then take a palm sander & sand through the tape till all that is left is the raised letters sticking out...paint & pull the tape off when dry. chris
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Hey---- Go to a HOBBY shop and get the paint in tubes that are used to paint planes and other stuff. I use them everyday ! ~~~~~~~~~~~~> Dick ---OR a craft store
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These are just some general painting guidelines for raised lettering...full disclosure: I have painted raised surfaces but never petro or porcelain items.
Try out your paint somewhere else first. Some paint will flatten out nicely, while others show ridges from bush lines. Keep in mind that what you are painting will be looked at from a distance so bush marks may not be a problem.
You get the most control with a sable or synthetic sable brush. I would recommend a bright (flat/square) and a filbert or round brush (both are pointy--check the point--some brushes in the stores are too roughed up on the edges and you need that point to fill in those square edges/smaller spaces). For some people, a longer handled brush that can rest in the webbing of your thumb and index finger may also give you more control, for others the shorter ones give more control.
If you go the taping route, apply the paint thinly, remove tape before the paint drys and repeat with a second (or third) coat free hand if you can as retaping may pull of that first coat (depends on the paint--test first). With tape if the paint is thick, you can have a ridge along the taped edges that you may not want. Not removing the tape until the paint drys can cause problems if the paint got under the tape, and bonded the edge of the tape to your surface. Plus even if it doesn't stick, you get what looks like a blob along what you wanted as a straight edge. Always press down hard on those tape edges before painting to try and prevent this. -or-
How steady is your hand...?
If you hold a 'bright' (ie. square flat brush) loaded but not dripping nor thick with paint and rub the side of the brush at an angle along the raised edge, keeping the angle the same and going towards the center of the lettering, you may get a consistant edge that you could fill in.
For a more complicated way, it depends on the paint:
If it's a paint that can be wiped when wet (with water or a light solvent that will not damage the existing surface), then freehand paint smaller than the area for your first layer so you don't need to worry too much about some wavyness, then let the paint dry completely.
Apply the second coat first to the edges creating an outline with a smaller brush and that steady hand. If the overall surface is flat, you may be able to use the edge of a good ruler to lightly put in the line, wipeing up mistakes or overshoots at the ends of the line. Wipe the ruler each time. You can catch flaws before the paint dries by looking at each letter when you finish it upside down or in a mirror and wiping out areas while still wet that you need to redo.
If those lines are good to go, go back over the letter freehand filling in and second coating where needed without overpainting your new lines. You can also start with that outline, but the reason I do the inner painting first on exsisting raised surfaces, is I find I tend to be more accurate. I think for me, seeing a more solid letter or number when I put the outline around it makes the flaws of the edges easier to see.
I know, I know--too many words... : ) : o : )
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I painted a Coca Cola base using a roller that had very fine length nap. I hung the base upsidedown so that the paint wouldn't run down into the letters then just ran the roller over it without much pressure. Worked great. A friend of mine told me how to do it and that was how his son restored license plates. Mitch
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DOC @ THE AMERICAN GARAGE
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Mike
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How do they paint the lettering on the Coke machines? They really look sharp.
Wanted: Nebraska advertising items Cushman, Dempster, Archer oil etc.
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originals at factory were done with a thin brass stencil and hard roller. nowadays a guy with a steady hand and 1-shot paint
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I'm also a huge fan of One Shot. It's great paint and it flows on really nice, doesn't leave brush strokes. That, with a fine brush and some patience will make anyone a sign painter with a little practice.
Last edited by gmstuff; Thu Mar 31 2011 06:13 PM.
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you can find them in most larger hardware/paint stores. it's a thick body pen that you shake a rattle ball in and then depress the point to make the paint flow. I use them all the time for tracing and detail work similar to the question in this thread....the tops of raised letters.
DOC @ THE AMERICAN GARAGE
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