Primarily Petroliana Shop Talk Forums Shop Talk Petroliana Forums General Petroliana Discussion A source for Tokheim 300 internal parts?

I am trying to get my Tokheim 300 pump working again. Unfortunately I have some problems with the float and bypass, they get stuck and load the motor down, eventually stopping it. I disassembled the pump and found it full of sludge. Now to reassemble I will have to make gaskets but that's easy. The problem is that the float bypass valve is worn, and the relief valves have lost part of their leather seals, and the rubber check valve is hard and brittle. The gear pump itself is in excellent condition though.

While I realize that most collectors could care less about what's inside the pump I actually use mine to move recycled vegetable oil to fill my dad's car and my truck. The pump was given to me in exchange for scrap 20 years ago, and while not perfect, it has been a sort of family member ever since. I am currently soaking the parts in lye, then acid to remove paint and rust and old sludge so I can repaint everything and reassemble. Any help would be appreciated.

I have a tok 300 here that is a working pump. I plan to remove the internals of it, and could probably get you what you need.

Ryan



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visit my website for original gas pump parts

thepumpdump.com

I would appreciate that very much. In the meantime I am making some gaskets and going to try and make new parts from leather and see what happens.

There is a teflon replacement disk for the Tokheim bypass valves.
The bypass is the one with the stronger spring. You can stretch it a little to get a little more flow.
All those parts can be bought new.
There is a rebuilder in Cartersville GA that should be able to get you everything you need.
Doug Duncan
Meters INC DOUG DUNCAN
E-mail Address(es):
metersintl@aol.com
Business Information:
Company: meters inc.
Phone: 770-386-0080
I rebuilt, Bennett, Tokheim, Wayne, Gilbarco, Southwest, Erie, Bowser, pumps and meters for about 14 years. 21 yrs on the computers now

To insure a good flow use valve grinding compund to seat the valves at the bottom into the seats in the bottom plate. If any fluid can pass the seat it will slow your flow.
Polish out the inside of the small cyliders on the tops of the valves that the leathers are in. They will get a wear groove that needs to be sanded out sometimes.There is also a small gasket under the lip of the cylinders , you will have to buy that one , it would be very hard to make. Make sure you have the screen filter inside.
There are thin paper gaskets on the impeller plate in the back. Only add enough to give it a few thousanths end play....this is very important for flow as well, and for pickup of product. You do not want a bunch of endplay. Pack the impeller with grease when you are done, the grease will help it pickup the first of the fluid. There are some rubber seals and a spring and some washers behind the bushing in the front. The shaft needs to be polihed out in that area to keep it from prematurely wearing out the seals.

The float is actually part of the air elimination system, there is a small brass plug with a hole in it and a brass tab bent over the top, that is for the air to escape and the tab keeps it from spraying.

The bypass just lets it recirclate when the nozzle is shut. But when the nozzle is open the bypass will close and any fluid that can pass the conical seat at the bottom will decrease your flow rate, So they need to be ground or lapped in with the compound.

I always use aviation permatex for a gasket sealer, follow directions.....apply to the metal, let tack, then assemble. Let it tack up for several hrs to insure the best seal.

You will need to rebuild the valves in a vise.
The spring needs to be compressed and held in place while you change the disk on the top,
Needle nose vise grips or just vise grips do well.
Compress the spring, clamp the shaft above the spring with the pliers to keep spring compressed. That way you can rebuild the top without having to say all those four letter words.

If you need anything else just let me know.
Joe

You can use a "square cut" o-ring under the valve cylinder lips instead of the cork and rubber gaskets. VITON rubber is more $ than BUNA but will not swell.

[This message has been edited by jkyocom (edited 05-28-2008).]

I dug through all my new parts ...all I came up with was a couple of TOK. 898-k meter foot gaskets, meter piston cups and a couple of TOK. meter output shaft seal kits.

Here is a pic of a Wayne meter out of a 60 I rebuilt about three years ago. It and another went to Alaska to work in a pair of restored Wayne 60 pumps.
Actually working, metering gas, RETAIL.
I was able to track down a co. that still had the dies to make the gaskets, the rebuilder I worked for used to buy from them and the place is only about 30 miles from me.
They also had the bottom dies too.
I imagine they still have the Erie, Bowser dies as well. But since it was a limited run, they charged me $5.00 ea for the gaskets



These meters went out with the 70 Wayne,
so finding the gaskets for a 60 yr old meter was LUCK.

[This message has been edited by jkyocom (edited 05-28-2008).]

This is even more information than I expected! Is there anywhere I can get a scan of a parts diagram? My leather seals are unsalvageable and disintegrated readily. I am trying to see what they looked like, it seems like they were cupped? If parts are still available, I would not have to machine a die and mold the leather to fit. I did notice the paper gaskets on the gear pump and was going to make them out of regular paper, or is there a better material? It's nice to know that I am not wierd for wanting a real, working pump.

I sold a cherry Bowser 575 last year to a guy that is going to use it fill his bi-plane.
Yes, the seals you are refering to are just small leather cups and now are made of teflon or other more durable type plastics, some are graphite impregnate.

The paper gaskets on the back need to be the thinnest paper you can find. Those should not be expensive to buy. That pumping unit used the same guts for about 60 yrs , so parts are available. There are still pumping units similar to that in service now.

The 950 pumping unit has the same bypass valves as the pump you have.

Make sure NOT to get any dings or burrs on the impeller device, just a small nick can keep it from turning, handle with care.

I am weird too..... I rebuilt an 950-a to work years ago. I used a later model meter and the original pumping unit, got it pumping over 10 gpm. It was something to see that big hulk of a pump working.

I have found that pumping unit in the PAT. Office documents, I think I found it under Tokhiem. it doe not have an exploded veiw, but you can see all the parts.

[This message has been edited by jkyocom (edited 05-29-2008).]

Hi TallRick, if you want you can email me and I can send you a scan of the pumping unit breakdown with part numbers. Most if not all parts are still available and we should have them in stock as well as working rebuilt pumping units outright or exchange w/your core. Heavy little suckers to ship but you know that already.

Regards,
Brian/Tok

That's neat to see these wonderful old pumps actually put back into service again. Just goes to show the quality and durability that were built into these pumps.

Bennett and Tokheim are by far the best internals of any other pumps. Both "heavy weights" and last forever. That is before the planned obsolecence, They both started getting sorry when they started eliminating the stainless cylinder walls on the TOK meters and used steel sleeves and steel pistons on the Bennett meters.
Bennett came out with an aluminum pumping unit about that time....trash, compared to the old ones.

Wayne 2,3,4,5,6 meters had encased ball bearings on the main shaft, stainless internals, teflon cups ( on the 5,6 ), a pleasure to build, compared to a Southwest. We used to rebuild up to 100 G&B (Gilbarco) meters in a week. They wear out the fastest.

I have been dealing with some problems the last week, but have been able to return to the pump. Although the internals were quite rusty on the outside, the inside was just full of motor oil I pumped through it before putting it outside. I am going to assemble the frame base and install internals, and test it before restoring the outside panels. I need a replacement glass and new rubber, and a hose outlet grommet, but I am sure those parts are available. Tomorrow I intend to pour the concrete base, and maybe start fixing rust holes on the doors.