Primarily Petroliana Shop Talk Forums Shop Talk Petroliana Forums Showcase and Stories, Petroliana Globe of the month first time!

I'm liking this JJ. Your doing a great job! Good to see GOTM back!
chris

Hey John, just wanted to say the same, great job!!!

Well time has gotten away from me and i now see it's time to start another GOTM and were not even finished here. LOL

Lets wrap this up with metal bodies.

I know the original metals were spot welded and the repop weren't but that not the case anymore. I e-mailed t-way to see if he can post a picture because he has the new bodies.

I will add this!!!!
On a 15" or 16.5" metal body at the bottom there is a dimple and the lenses are recessed. You must line these up or when the lenses go in it will break. You have to be careful putting in snap rings because these things will scare you when the snap in.

Sometimes its scary taking them out too.

[This message has been edited by Lastgas15 (edited 06-25-2007).]

MAKE SURE BODY IS NOT WARPED & lens makes contact with band ALL THE WAY AROUND, BEFORE installing the ring. I use dental floss [wrapped around a couple of times] to ease the end of ring into place. Havn't broke one YET.
db

IF, in doubt, use silcone or hot glue in 3 or 4 places on each lens. Better to be safe than sorry.

[This message has been edited by Dick Bennett (edited 06-26-2007).]

Bob, I know that feeling!!! That snap ring will fly out of there.

T-Way is going to post some pictures Wed. night for us.

Anyone have any questions on bodies before we move on?

cleaning them maybe?
Putting capco bodies together?

Okay gang - here we go.

First off is an original low-profile steel body base. This is kinda hard to see, but the base is on the 'outside' of the punched lip of the body itself. The new 'steel' low profile bodies are made exactly this way - right down to the spot welds that hold everything together.

If you look closly, you can see the lens locating 'bump' just above the RH end of the snap ring - and the seams where the ends of the rolled body come together.


Shot with CYBERSHOT at 2007-06-27

The original and reproduction steel low-profile bodies are made of two pieces. The body itself is 'rolled' - then the ends are welded together and the hole is punched for the base piece. The body is inserted into the base and the two pieces are spot welded together.

[This message has been edited by T-way (edited 06-27-2007).]

Here is a new 'steel' stamped base. These too are done exactly the same as the orignals - right down to the spot welds and the small locating 'bump' at 6:00. Note that the base is on the 'inside' of the body now.

You can see the locating bump in this photo.

If you are putting 'new' reproduction lenses in these new steel high- or low-profile bodies, you will need to take a body dolly and hammer and flatten this bump. This will allow your new lenses to sit flush with the mounting surface and not cause a stress point.


Shot with CYBERSHOT at 2007-06-27

These are made of three pieces of steel. There is a front and a back piece to the body itself and then the base piece.

The two halves are assembled by rolling the lip on one over the other. Then the hole is punched and the base is spot welded into place.

[This message has been edited by T-way (edited 06-27-2007).]

Here is one of the many new commercially available aluminum bodies.

You will note that the base profile is different from an original and that the base inserts into the body. The body is punched inward and the body hole flange and the upper edge of the base are tack welded together inside the unit.

These are three piece units. Two halves that are 'spun' for the body and a third spun base piece.


Shot with CYBERSHOT at 2007-06-27

FYI

If you are buying any reproduction steel or aluminum body - make sure to check the fit of your lenses before you paint the unit.

The new steel bodies seem to be slightly different diameters from one side to the other. So make sure both lenses will fit in both sides - with the snap rings fully seated - before proceeding to paint.

We have found that some lenses will go on one side of the bodies and seat perfectly and then not allow the snap rings to seat on the other side. I check all body/lens combinations prior to paint for just this reason.

The aluminum bodies have just the opposite problem. Sometimes they are a bit too loose and your lenses will spin easily after the snap rings are installed. Sometimes you can take up the 'play' by placing a few spots of electrical tape on the seating surface. This will usually take up the slop and allow the retaining rings to hold the lenses firmly.

The Professors idea of the flossing string is a good one for final installation. If you are just checking the fit prior to paint, put a small 'flag' of electrical tape/masking tape on one end of the retaining ring to use as a tab during removal of the rings after the test fit.

If you look at the images directly above, you can see the green masking tape flag I mentioned. This is a shot of one of the bodies I have displayed in my Production Room with lenses installed. I leave the flags on the snap rings so I can easily change out the display lenses when a new lens design becomes available.

Later . . .

Jim

[This message has been edited by T-way (edited 06-27-2007).]