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#10864 Tue Nov 21 2006 04:18 PM
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Came back today with bunch of stuff- in it was this 15in Globe Body with wire lock rings- some rust but not bad- I think this body is being reproduced- how do you tell the diff?? thanks Don


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#10865 Tue Nov 21 2006 05:09 PM
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Good question Don,
I have noticed that the way the bases are welded to the body seem to be different from the originals. But not sure if this is the case on all the repros or what other indicators there are. Hope a vendor will know and reply for both of us.

Kim

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#10866 Tue Nov 21 2006 06:07 PM
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Look inside for minor rust pitting under snap ring groove.
db

#10867 Tue Nov 21 2006 06:12 PM
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Dick hit that one right on the head! LOL
The new repops look much more like the originals than the old ones.
Don you going to become a globe collector now? LOL


Looking for anything from Hoosier Pete, Platolene 500 and Red Bird.
#10868 Tue Nov 21 2006 07:11 PM
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Most original bodies were SPOT WELDED to base, Repo's I've seen are BRAZED/wire welded.
db

#10869 Tue Nov 21 2006 07:15 PM
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Dick, The news ones T-Way had at Peotone looked to be stamped not spun and were spot welded. They looked really good. I will let T-Way respond to that to make sure.


Looking for anything from Hoosier Pete, Platolene 500 and Red Bird.
#10870 Tue Nov 21 2006 08:59 PM
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What is the purpose of making them look original in places you don't normally see when it's displayed?

Wes

#10871 Wed Nov 22 2006 07:45 AM
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Thanks for the compliment Jarvis.

The steel 15" bodies we sell are indeed stamped, not spun. They are made exactly like an original - right down to the most tell-tail point - the way the base is attached to the body.

As Dick and Kim mentioned, most of the 'spun' reproduction bodies have the bases welded to the body at the point where the base goes up thru the body itself. The reproductions have a hole punched thru the body and the base inserts into the body.

On an original, the base still inserts into the body - but the bodies were punched outward so there was a flange that surrounded/overlapped the base unit (this is visible as you look at the globe). The body and the base were then welded together with a row of spot welds around the flange.

Another way to tell an original is the area at 6:00 on the flange where the lens sits. On most of the 15" and 16.5" originals (including our 15" reproduction), there is a small 'bump' that helps keep the lens from rotating. This bump acts as a pressure point - the design intent is to position the opening on the snap ring to either side of this area.

None of the spun reproductions have this particular feature.

So to answer Wes's question, you can see the difference between a spun reproduction and a faithfull stamped reproduction if you know where to look. To some people, this makes a difference.

Later . . .

Jim



[This message has been edited by T-way (edited 11-22-2006).]

#10872 Wed Nov 22 2006 07:49 AM
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Forgot to mention . . .

Don - and anyone else - I'm in the market for some rusty, nasty, used 15" globe bodies. Holes, rust-thru, peeling paint are all okay with me. Just as long as the body will hold both lenses in and sit up straight without falling over.

If you have any nasty bodies sitting around that you'd like to sell - drop me a e-mail with a couple of photos and a price and I'll get back with you.

Thanks!

Later . . .

Jim

#10873 Wed Nov 22 2006 11:08 AM
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As far as I know the bump locates a notch in the lense..

Although it pained me to hammer one flat, I did do it after I cracked a Red Indian lense.. repo.. You could hear it across the room when it cracked!

Glass does not like a pressure point, I cannot see mounting a lense wothout a notch for the bump and not having trouble..

#10874 Wed Nov 22 2006 12:58 PM
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Dodo:

Thanks for mentioning that. I was a bit unclear in my statement.

You are correct, a lot of the original lenses do have a relief cut into the back side at 6:00.

And I would also recommend flatening that area if using a set of reproduction lenses - or asking us to grind you the relief if that is the way you want to go.

FYI: A correctly made set of reproduction lenses (made from double-strength glass) is actually strong enough to support over 100 lbs if placed in the center of the lens while on a flat surface.

In addition, the 'Banded Glass Body' bands that hold 13.5" lenses also have a small 'bump' at the 12:00 position - but none of the original lenses were produced with a relief.

Later . . .

Jim

#10875 Sun Nov 26 2006 01:53 AM
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If you want to know about globe bodies talk to Mike Slama. he's the one manufacturing the new ones Tway takes credit for

#10876 Sun Nov 26 2006 04:54 AM
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That was a bit across the line.

T-way didn't say he made these, just that he sold them. I don't see that he even implied that he makes these or has these made.

A man ask for help and he offered some info. Give the guy a break!

#10877 Sun Nov 26 2006 04:59 AM
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I agree Morgan, just some information is all that was asked for. We do not want to get into another mud slinging session. Have a good Sunday.

Phil


Thanks, Phil
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#10878 Sun Nov 26 2006 07:59 AM
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This topic is being closed at the request of the originator, 5 Quart Don

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