#157299
Mon Oct 26 2009 06:02 AM
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buffed out an aluminum nozzle last night while watching football. any thoughts on what to clear coat aluminum with so the shine stays? Thanks, Chuck
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Unless this nozzle is going to be handled frequently, it should last for a quite a long time with out anything on it, out in the elements or not. You could buy some of that wheel wool, and maybe clean it twice a year, but I wouldn't think that you would need to coat it. If you do coat it and a little air gets underneath it down the road, it will start to flake and then it will really look bad.
Last edited by chadrock00; Mon Oct 26 2009 07:14 AM.
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true, i thought about that too, was just thinking to prolong the look. thanks for the input. Chuck
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Does the same thing apply to brass nozzles?
Jack Sim
Author, 1st & 2nd editions of Gas Pump ID book, 3rd edition is now available at www.gaspumpbible.comAir Meter ID book also available
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not sure jack, i have my brass nozzles professionaly done and they coat them. i'm gonna call them tomorrow and ask what they use...and i'll share. i know that the brass ones do tarnish faster than the aluminum. chuck
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How about cleaning it good and then wipe it down with lacquer thinner and then spray a light clear coat of lacquer on it. I don't know how air would get underneath it. You could use spray can... Randy
Always looking for Hy-Flash Gas/Miller Oil, Hi-Speed Gas/ Hickok Oil and Paragon Refining items from Toledo,Ohio.
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The air would probably come from chips from someone who wants to feel the old nozzle in their hand and then are not as careful about putting it back as you are.
Jack
Author, 1st & 2nd editions of Gas Pump ID book, 3rd edition is now available at www.gaspumpbible.comAir Meter ID book also available
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use a wire tie and keep it in the nozzle boot so people won't lift it out,, I do that with all the pumps I've restored.. funny thing, when people walk up to a gas pump the first thing they want to do is lift the nozzle out,,or use a padlock..
Wes.......
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On my trimline (yes, I have only the one pump, I'm fighting the urge for more). I used a 3/8" x 2-1/2" 316 ss bolt and nylock to secure the handle so both "little and big" hands can't lift it. The bolt looks good and isn't as noticible as a padlock and the nylock isn't coming off without some work.
Looking for Tide Water/ Tide Water-Associated/ Tidewater items
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Wes & Bob
It is just like when I would take 18 restored ECOs to Carlisle/Hershey. It always seemed that the first guy that came by would like to grab the handle and start turning it. I would come running, screaming, it is not a slot machine, no matter how many time you turn it money will not come out. Actually, turning an ECO above 100 would have a tendency to lock it up, and after this happeing a couple of times..... I got to a point, very early on, not to put cranks on the ECO air meters.
I like your comments about using an original lock to secure the nozzle. This is what they did when they put the pumps to sleep at night, and after all, isn't that what we are doing to the pumps?
Jack
Last edited by Jack Sim; Mon Oct 26 2009 09:51 PM.
Author, 1st & 2nd editions of Gas Pump ID book, 3rd edition is now available at www.gaspumpbible.comAir Meter ID book also available
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Sorry I don't have any info but there has to be a good product out there they clear coat alloy wheels. Wheels are subject to a harsher environment than some hands touching it. I would like to know because I polished up a bronze bell and sprayed some rattle can clear on it. I did not even have it hung up before the peeling started. Now I get to figure out how to get the clear off and re-polish. Mike
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I know when some nozzles are bead blasted they look really good and as far as I know they stay that way for ever. I have one nozzle that I bought severals years ago that I hope to use some day and it has been blasted.
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Just spoke with the the plating guys that do my brass nozzles, and he said you could either do clear verathaine (found at Low's etc...)on the aluminum nozzles, or have a powder coating company clear them. for the brass, he said the verathaine might yellow them aliitle. i'm gonna try the verathaine on one just to see how it looks.
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I have never used any of it, but eastwood sells a clear for metals. They also sell it in a spray can or buy the qt. in a gloss or satin.
FROM THERE WEBSITE
.Eastwood Diamond Clear Gloss for Bare Metal Quart Item #10357 ZP
Only $ 19.99
..More Info MSDS Sheet. Protect metal parts with a crystal clear, tough, flexible coating that keeps brass, aluminum, steel, die-cast, even cast iron looking great. This self- leveling formulation, resists chips, cracks, fading and yellowing. May slightly dull reflectivity. Resists fuels and temps up to 350 degrees. Ideal in underhood applications except exhaust manifolds. Great for polished wheels, aluminum valve covers as well as items around the shop and home. One quart of Diamond Clear for Bare Metal covers about 40 sq.ft. Ensure surface is grease and oil free with PRE Painting Prep (10041Z).
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I used plasti-kote super lacquer 12 years ago on these brass and aluminum parts. haven't changed a bit
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