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Originally Posted By: jkyocom
the wheel shafts should be marked on the ends.


Joe, how would they be marked? Just curious, as these were much too rusted to leave any kind of mark.....I think.
lol, I guess that just makes it that much more mind boggleing for me. Looks like any of the clues that might have been there to make it easier are gone. Good thing I have a few days off to try and figure this puzzle out.
And now a "plug" for your Veeder-Root rebuilder man....jkyocom....if you have a desire to work on your own V-R, you might consider sending it to Joe. I wish I had.....almost.

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Some are marked with a letter on the butt end.
The two on one side are the same, the other two on the other side are different.
The wheels are different from front and rear.
The head "times" with the removable double headed pivoting gear mech. on the ends of the wheel shafts.
I don't remember if it is "gears flush" or one tooth in or one tooth out, you got three choices.
I have parts for that thing if you need some.


Veeder Root Rebuilds.....since 1987
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You'll never know what YOU CAN DO, IF you don't TRY.
Money can buy toys, But Few have the knowledge to re-work/build & restore those toys.
Life is a learning experience.

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Getting real close now. Most of the time it will set back to zero, but not always. My main springs are not strong enough to overcome all the friction in the wheels. If I roll only 1 wheel each shaft it returns to zero fine. 2 wheels on each shaft and its iffy. 3 and it's a no-go. I had another situation too...the wheel shafts were installed correctly, but the "friction" mechanism in each wheel was not working consistently. Got those taken care of and now I'll have to work on getting the "star" wheels on each number wheel working freely....that's where the undue friction is coming from. Joe....hats off to you sir. Anyone that works on these day in and day out is a glutten for punishment, lol.

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There are clutches between wheels they can go bad
either to stiff or not enough friction.....
If you have the right tools those are easier than a crankback.
I am working on 100's of wheels right now cry


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Joe, what kind of clutch are you referring to? Maybe what I'm calling a friction mech. is what is actually a clutch. The mechanism I'm referring to is the "knifeblade" that engages the serrations on the inboard side of the gear (toothed wheel) that is an integral part of the individual wheel assembly. Maybe I should post a pic. OR.....you should publish that rebuild manual you have in the works.....yeah, that's a good idea. Put me on the list to buy one.

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The clutchs have a gear on one side and a bunch of holes in the other and goes in between the wheels.
What you are referring to is more like a pawl.


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Originally Posted By: jkyocom
The clutchs have a gear on one side and a bunch of holes in the other and goes in between the wheels.
What you are referring to is more like a pawl.


Yeah, a pawl. The little piece that pivots and engages to "lock" the wheel. The pivot piece doesn't always pivot due to corrosion of the aluminum housing.
correct me if I'm wrong, but the clucth you refer to looked to me like the means of advancing the wheel one number when the adjacent wheel completes a full revolution. oops, that would be incorrect, wouldnt it? One wheel, on completing a full revolution would trip the adjacent wheel via the small toothed wheel that rides on the 3/16" shaft.

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right !!!!
that is called a pinion gear.
I think that concept was patented by Veeder before they became Veeder-Root.
the totalizers have them too but they are a lot smaller.

I have never tried to figure out how the clutches work & why.
My brain is too full of other important things.
when you push in the pawl there is a small cylinder in the wheel that goes into the round hole in the clutch.


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