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#17147 Wed Mar 24 2004 06:38 PM
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I just looked at a nice post from JEFFSAUTOMOBILIA in the Showcase forum regarding paint that prompted a good question;
What kind (brand) of paint do you prefer? I use Nason base/clearcoat which is made by Dupont and I am I tough guy to please in the paint department. It's expensive but I really believe that if you're looking to save money restoring a pump you need to look into other avenues to save money. Considering the blood, sweat & tears that go into the point where you're ready to "load the ole paint gun", good and dependable paint is the rock of gibralter so far as how the restoration will turn out.
Believe me, my father nor wife works for Dupont and I have no love lost for mega-big companies but Nason has been veddy veddy good to me!!
I am sure that there are other systems that are as good as Nason and I am asking for input so far as which other realms that exist.
THANKS!!

Neal Dunn gpf

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heres my thoughts on paint:
i (me) dont believe in base/clear! base clear to me means you need clear, more $$$ more catalast, more reducer, gun cleaning, time spraying, more dust/dirt, more build up! BUT it does look NICE!!!!!

i like PPG concept its their top grade of paint, but its spendy! Concept black is the blackest black you can get!!!
LOTS (not all) of the super show cars painted today DO NOT have clear on them!!! --- sometimes clear is ADDED in the paint to the last coats. (JUST SOMETIMES) if you paint something with concept, then color sand it (open it up to let solvents out) & put it away! dont even look at it for a month! then get it out & finish sanding with 3000 grit & buff it, it will be as close to lacquer as you can get. (finding something to buff it with is the problem because its like concrete! LOL!)

ive seen OMNI i believe PPGs lowest grade paint line LOOK REALLY REALLY NICE!

base clear is great stuff, NO DOUBT lets say a Buick or a deer hits your metallic painted pump, you can straighten it then color/paint 1/2 the panel & clear the whole panel. it blends / matches awesome. --- i think most painters are used to painting what they use everyday, & its usually base clear, & it is awesome stuff!!!

what lots of guys forget about is LACQUER! its also great stuff, cheap & easy (have your wife spray it) & NOTHING ABSOLUTELY NOTHING compares to a nice lacquer job! (great for a pump! in fact im going to do a Hot Rod pump with louvered doors etc... & i think ill lacquer it!?!) --- if you think it cracks then im sure you own a FUTON because you heard people talking about them & you liked the name, now try to get someone to sit on it!!! LOL!!! ---

(I was looking at a LIME GREEN Harley the other day, i asked the guy what he painted it with & he threw me a can of spray paint! LOL!!! he sanded & rubbed it out & it looooooooked like a mirror!!!!!)

this is all just my 2 cents!
ive seen impressive paint/body jobs by using all different kinds of stuff & brands!

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neal: i agree wit u. either dupont or its nason brand base clear. it is idiot proof and beautiful and those are my two requirements. gary

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We restore about 2 pumps per week at the shop and for my money, I like good 'ol single-stage dupont centari. I feel like it gives a nice original look, but also can be pretty slick if the right guy is laying it on. It orange peels just enough to look right for a gas pump finish. That's not to say that the occasional customer doesn't ask for base/clear, which is no problem.
Seth/Vic's '66'

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Neal, We use PPG as a base and Imron as a clear. The clear hardens within a day to the point that you can't bead blast it off....seriously, you need paint stripper to get it loose. Both are very pricey but the results are worth it at least to OL' Anal me! Paul

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Guys:

Can't get anything in Lacquer in Michigan anymore. EPA and all. I'm sure Bob has more info on this as he can't get it in Indiana either.

I use PPG paints's. Base coats and clears. I especially like the 'Speed Clear' as I can shoot it over cured One-Shot pinstriping and not have the striping lift. It's a 2-part clear that cures quickly and can be sanded and rubbed out to a high gloss. It will take bird poo, elephant snot, road tar or anything else you can throw at it.

Yeah, it's expensive. But after I've spent weeks getting everything as perfect as I can - I'm not about to shoot my pumps with inexpensive paint.

As a side note about build-up. With a BC/CC system you really don't get any more build up than a conventional single stage system. You still have to do all the hidden work and priming - but when you shoot 'color' all you need is complete coverage. You don't need any build - you get all your build with the clear. So instead of shooting four coats of color and color sanding off two of them, you shoot one coverage coat of color and three coats of clear and sand off two coats of clear and color buff. Same amount of paint and you don't have to buy so much color (saves $$'s). If you have clear in stock you're all set. Especailly if you buy your clear in gallons (which saves big $'s!).

It's also mush easier if your doing multiple-color on a pump or project. Less build at the edges and less build overall. And with the over-clear there is little chance of sanding thru the color at an edge trying to get the ridge to dissappear

I can get away with buying a pint of color for a Harley paint job - or a quart if it's something I'd like to have some of left over for later. I keep the clear 'in stock' along with the second part activator and all I need to buy for a new customer is the actual color they require. It keeps things simple in my paint cabinet.

With all that being said. There is no real 'correct' paint to use. Everyone should shoot what they are comfortable with. What they know will work for the conditions they shoot under. And what they can afford.

Just make sure to READ and FOLLOW, ALL the safety instructions on your MSDS (you all pick them up anytime you get a new product - don't ya?). Some/most of this stuff will kill you if you misuse it.

Later . . .

Jim

P.S. Here's a shot of the latest Harley job I did.


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I am all for base/clear. It seems that guys like my Dad that are used to the old lacquer method and don't like change. They are used to the old way and want to stick to it. He will say that you get a better job out of base/clear and it is more forgiving.
This is what this site is all about comparing notes. You gotta love it!


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i really like to use NOTHING! LOL!!! i like original NICE (decent) paint that only needs some rubbing out! --- is there such a thing in Minnesota? --- a few of my first pumps were like this & i couldnt wait to blow em apart & blast all that original paint off, polish the aluminum & get a few things chrome plated. LOL!!! an awesome resto is one thing but an original means LESS WORK! LOL! & just at this point & time im into original! i did get a lead on a 60 that was put in a shed when new (i havent seen it YET & maybe never will) BUT im on the hunt! LOL!

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I just did my first paint job yesterday. I used the base/clear method. It ran me about $150 to paint my G&B visible pump and another $80 for a good craftsman sprayer. It is messy and a lot of work, but beautiful in the end. I can't wait until I can build a small shop with good lighting and vents and that will make things a lot easier down the road. ~Jason


~Jason

6 ft signs & rare pump plates – Signal, Hancock, Mohawk, Polly, Flying A, Douglas, Richfield, PDQ, Stinker, Beeline, Neon , Dealership.

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PPG just came out with a new clear about three months ago. It is very expensive (175.00 a gallon with catalist), but dries and is ready to wetsand and buff in TWO hours!!!! Thats at 70 degrees too! Very fast drying, and lays real flat. Also, rumor has it that ppg's economy brand omni came out with a new clear that is just ppg clear marketed as omni which means it is much cheaper for the same clearcoat!!


Ryan

Ps. Tom, maybe you should clear those goofey locks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


FREEDOM oil items wanted.




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What do you guys think about powder coating?
I have a fellow here in town that can do a pump or lubster.

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TerryL, powder coating is GREAT but as with any other system there are limitations;

A- You must have perfect metal, powder paint won't stick to sin hiders (Bondo, spot putty, etc.)

B- The average guy as myself doesn't have the facilty nor equipment to do a first class powder coat job.

So far a a high gloss, durable, stick it outside and it will still look great 10 years from now, powder coating is the best!!

Thanks to all of you for the above info! That's what I like about this hobby (and life in general), there's many ways to skin a cat and they all work.
Sincerely,

Neal

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Cool, I love to hear all this paint talk. I agree with T-way's comments 100%. Lacquer isn't available in many areas and its days are numbered for limited applications other places in the US. There is plenty of room for different opinions on painting pumps as some want historic accuracy, some show car looks and some want ease and economy.

I think that you should always go with better or best materials any time you do your own work. That is true on your gas pump, your car or house. You want it to look great and to not have to do it again too soon.

Please be certain you are using the proper safety equipment and methods. Don't expose your family members to toxic fumes that may seep in from attached garages or basements.

For the record, I'm a PPG guy using wet-on-wet sealer, DBC color and 2042 clear for most things. I'm gold class certified by PPG so they warrant everything I paint for life.

------------------
Jim "Oldgas" Potts
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ppg great stuff, we use ppg& house of kolor,& one shot. base /clear. cheese

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I forget what brand CompuWrench is using in his paint booth, but I think it has lots of isocyanytes and it is starting to affect him..may be causing irreversible damage...LOL..

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