Primarily Petroliana Shop Talk Forums Shop Talk Petroliana Forums General Petroliana Discussion TRYING TO GET IDEAS ON COMPUTER "PAINT/CLEAN UP"

CAN SOMEONE PROVIDE SOME PICS OF THERE COMPUTER THAT HAS BEEN CLEANED UP, I WAS GONNA BREAK IT ALL THE WAY DOWN ,BUT I HAVE SCRATCHED THAT IDEA,TO MUCH INVOLVED ,AFTER THIS PIC WAS TAKEN I HAVE SINCE TAKEN SMALL WIRE BRUSH AND CLEANED AS MUCH AS I COULD WITH WD 40 AND PRESSURED AIR, JUST GENERAL CLEAN UP!I WANT TO DO THIS MYSELF ,ANY TIPS? ON WHAT WOULD HELP CLEANING ER' UP! ,I HAVE RECEIVED SOME GREAT TIPS FROM SOME FOLKS! BUT MORE INPUT WONT HURT! THE TIN RATTEL BOX I STRIPED AND RE PAINTED,THAT LOOKS GREAT, I PLANED ON HAND PAINTING THE NUMBERS,INSTEAD OF THE STICKERS! ANY OTHER IDEAS WOULD HELP! IF I CAN SEE PICS, THAT HELPS ME THE MOST IF ANYBODY HAS ANY!
THE REST OF THE TOKE IS TURNING OUT AMAZING ,THE COMPUTER IS THE ONLY THING THAT IM STUMPED ON CUZ I CAN'T TAKE IT APART? I COULD,BUT I HIGHLY DOUBT IT WOULD COME BACK TOGETHER THE SAME WAY!LOL THANKS AGAIN!

Simple Green and a stainless or brass brush can work wonders on grimy stuff. I'd worry about bead blasting the thing fully assembled as you might not be able to get all the grit out of the mechanisms.

If it were me and I were repainting the wheels, I'd get a small airbrush kit and carefully spray the wheels all black, then hand paint the white into the embossed numbers (I assume your computer is embossed). They sell some small airbrush kits with compressors cheaply on eBay and at Harbor Freight. You won't win awards airbrushing motorcycle parts with them, but it'll get the job done for something like this and you won't have as much overspray as a rattle can. For the numbers, testors model paint works well. I'm lucky that I've never gotten a computer so beat up that I couldn't just clean it up and do some touchups to make it look/work presentable.

SINCE YOU BROUGHT UP BEAD BLASTING, I WAS GONNA TAKE THE COMPUTER TO A FRIENDS HOUSE, HE'S GOT A CABINET SET UP AND BLAST IT,BUT I FIGURED THAT MIGHT BE TO HARSH ON ALL THE TINY PARTS ? HAS ANYBODY EVER DONE THIS BEFORE? BLASTED THE WHOLE COMPUTER?

I think, as Chris said, blasting it all together would be a mistake as you wouldn't be able to remove all the grit from the tight places and it would probably be locked up from that. Try soaking in a 5 gal. bucket of water and simple green, that's done well in the past.

REALLY , THE WHOLE THING?

I would not recommend blasting the computer whole.
I only do that in extreme cases where there is so much rust you can't find the pins.... then it it a total teardown, trying to save the frame.
The two big gears in the center of the computer have a brakeing mech. inside so they will slip in one direction and drive in the other. Grit = no good. You will never get the grit out of the two center gears if it gets in there, unless you tear it all the way apart.
Some of those gears have holes in the cast and some don't.
If you are going to refurbish it, I would say look for a set of NOS wheels to replace those.
To setup to get the same black finish I do on my wheels, would be more than a rebuild.

The cleaning process I use involves heat & acid and can strip all the paint off the wheels. That is a benifit to me since I take them back to bare metal.
Only sandblast stuff when fully degreased or you will never get all the fine powder out of things like the wheels.
DO NOT USE BEADS ON THE WHEEL SHELLS
beads bounce, roll and cause friction that leads to heat, that leads to warping......sand cuts, use it.

DO YOU RE-PAINT THE ROUND CAN THAT SURROUNDS THE MAIN GEARS ON THE Veeder Root COMPUTER, IT HAS THE Veeder Root SPECS ON THE CAN,WITCH I THOUGHT THAT WAS KIND OF NEAT, BUT IT WILL NOT LOOK RIGHT WITH EVERYTHING ELSE PAINTED? IS THE ROUND CAN EASY TO REMOVE?

some variator bands are steel welded together some are aluminum held together by 2 small tabs.
DB has those decals.

the two big gears in the center of the head are the only thing parts will fly out of if you try to take it apart.

I didn't know the first thing about a computer the first time I tried to change the wheels.
It took 7-8 hrs my first time, because I had it out of time.

But I did it with no help, no manual, trial and error.
Don't say you can't, if the Chineese Fire Drill brain of mine can do it, anyone can.
It helps to have another computer to look at when attempting to change the wheels.
Even though I have been doing them for over 20 yrs I still have to look at another head to put a frame & guts back together.

This is what it will look like w/ no blinders, wheels, totalizer.
The parts between the wheels and on the ends of the shaft...just put them back where they came from.

If you look at the computer as a whole it becomes overwhelming.
bottom banks are gallons top banks are money...they are mirrored from end to end...one side turns one way the other side turns opposite......4 quadrents to the head...you only work on one at a time
Perma-vis wheels are marked, replace each wheel w/ the correct #'d wheel.
Buy a manual from JACK !!!!!!
The hardest part is getting the pins out of the wheel shaft collars without damaging the shafts, collars or pins.

who is db ,i will have to get a veeder root decal so i can at least paint the round can!

Dick Bennett=DB

I have 4 different VR Band decals.
Also have the Upper side decal for early side readers, Tok 34, Wayne 40-A [Manufactured By Veeder Root Inc.] & Wayne 40 [Manufactured For Wayne Co. By Veeder Root Inc.]
Joe, which Band decal should he have ?
db

#49 computer

Please send image[s] & size if anyone has something different.
db

MR. BENNETT WHAT DO I NEED TO DO TO ORDER THE #49 DECAL FROM YOU?

PM sent w/ address.
db

#1, #2, 1932 to 1934

#4 = 1932 to 1937?

I just found one that should be 1937? to 1944
it should look like #5, but fits on the narrow band.


#3, #5 = 1945 to ? #45 (steel variator band)

there should be a decal that looks like #6
but has the increment plate w/ chain & pin type for the #45 w/ aluminum band. 1945 to 1948....#45

#6 = 1949 to 1956+ #49
That is about as close as I can come up with as far as what I have seen and what I know about the decals.
Veeder Root can't even tell you this info.

Dick, I will try to get you a few pics today of the other two.
That should get most, if not all the decals for the crankbacks.
Then you have to get them in order.

Thanks Joe.
My numbers are random as to how I made up the page yesterday.
VR's were changed out/rebuilt on a somewhat regular bases, the VR in any pump Might have a different decal on Variator than what was in pump originally.

,AS FAR AS A PIC OF THE ORIGINAL...... OPPPS............ LAST NIGHT I STRIPPED & PAINTED THE CAN!THESE ARE THE ONLY PICS I HAVE ON MY COMPUTER AT THE OFFICE! SORRY I HOPE THESE HELP , I KNOW ITS KINDA HARD TO SEE! DICK I TRUST YOU & JOE ON THIS ONE,WHATEVER WORKS! WHAT I NOTICED LAST NNIGHT WHILE I WAS STRIPPING THE CAN WAS ,WELL IT WAS NOT A STICKER ,IM NOT SURE HOW TO DESCRIBE IT ,IT WAS LIKE PRINTED IN INK ON THE CAN???? NOT SURE IF THAT MAKES ANY SINCE BUT,,,,ANYHOW, THANKS FOR YOUR HELP ON THIS ONE GUYS!

GOOD ENOUGH

From what I have seen, the earlier steel bands had a paper type decal.

Aluminum bands have the print on the metal.

That is just like the one I found in my Tok 300 when I restored it. Screen printed on the aluminum band.

This is a band from a Tok 34 & it looks to be a decal or printed on.

I have seen a few later rebuilds w/ paper instructions.

Maybe the early rebuilds were replaced w/ paper instructions?

YUP, EXACTLY!

CAN AFTER PAINT! AND DICK I'LL GET THE SIZE AT LUNCH TODAY!

PAINTED LIGHT FIXTURE AS WELL!

Chris, Band on VR should be Unpainted. In your photo of VR, the red on VR is over spray.

so its ok to mix a solution "degreaser" and put the whole computer in a 5 gallon bucket of solution, should i remove the toatalizer wheels first? can someone else elaborate,??? "JOE"... i obviously can not clean with heat & acid ,so degreasing i think will be my best bet, ,i just dont want to lock er up! i plan on doing this tonight! thanks!

remove the totalizer unit if your wheels are re-usable

if you use water w/ the cleaner, use boiling water.
It helps cut the grease better, and stimulates the chemicals.

thanks again Joe for the information!

DICK I GOT MY V.R DECALS IN THE MAIL TODAY,THANK YOU AGAIN!

Dick

I would like to get a copy of the VR decal for the 1962 and later models (Your #7). Could you PM or send response on how to contact you?

Dick, DB passed away a few months ago so those decals are no longer available. Mitch

Mitch

Sorry to hear about Dick's passing. Thanks to you and others for letting me know.

Best,

Barry

Would like to order a #7. Please advise as to cost and how to place order. Just saw where he passed away when I posted this.
Has anyone else started making them?