Primarily Petroliana Shop Talk Forums Shop Talk Petroliana Forums General Petroliana Discussion What's a fair price for a body shop to paint pump

Hey all I have a pump all torn down. I've got all the bas, top sides ready to go. I was planning on doing it myslef but what is a fair price to shoot the 6 parts. All the parts are super nice and straight dont think they'll have to do much other than blast the old paint off.

Also is it standard to paint inside of doors and side panels as well?

Depends on the quality of the paint (cost) and the extent of the paint job that you want. I generally spend about $600 getting the frame, and body shell painted but I'ts cost as much as $1500 on a Wayne 60 that had some pitting on the frame rails and needed a lot of sanding and there was some straightening on that one too! Kind of all over the board depending on the amount and quality of work! Get to know your body man fairly well, and he can generally give you a good idea! Good luck!

with blasting, fill spray with quality even if there are major dents etc. 110-1300 for nice job

Well after talking with a few autobody places I see what you're all saying. I'll be doing the majority of the body and prep work and I made a deal with a guy to just shoot the panels for 200.00 on every pump.

May I ask if you paint both sides of the doors and side panels when restoring?? Also I saw a little tumbler machine at Harbor freight that takes rust off of old bolts and nuts. Anyone use this ever?

Make sure all of your primers/fillers-hardeners are compatible with whatever brand of paint he will top coat with!!!

As long as the products are cured, it does not matter what you use. Their sealer will block everything from the paint.

Im assuming then you are doing the doors, or is the painter doing it all. If not you need his products for you to do the doors. I would opt for a package deal. Better yet do it yourself, how else can one learn if you dont. Practice on anything even a metal garbage can, drum, car hood, door and like Ive mentioned before get on "You Tube" and watch videos from the novis to the pro's. Take the plunge!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

As far as fasteners go, head down to your local Fastenal store and get new bolts and screws that are the same type as you're taking off. Before long, you'll have every type of brass and stainless fastener that you'll ever need! Can you tell that I hate old bolts? Besides, the new ones make it prettier!

The price is sometimes of not the main point, simply because you usually get what you pay for. Prep , prep. prep, is everything. The finish after the paint is applied is the other. You can get it done for a hundred in someones garage or wherever, but check the quality of work and what goes with it before and after. Pay more sometimes and be very happy with the results or be cheap and stew about it forever. Went through many painters and headaches before working with two good craftsman. CRAFTSMAN, like any other profession want to make you happy and themselves feel like they did their best. Push for the best in your work and your painter.

the last pump I restored for a guy was $1500 done. Im with craig on this you get what you pay for.I would be working for $3.00 an hour to paint a whole pump for $200 after fixing all the rookie bodywork. marty

I had Guaranty Chevrolet in Santa Ana, CA paint my Wayne 60. The panels were all pretty straight except one top side. I had 3 colors and all was base coat clear coat. They did all the body work and paint except the all panels were sandblasted before I took them there and I had the base and some of the internals powdercoated. All said and done, blasting, powdercoating, body work and paint was about $1600. I do get a discount but the paint is AMAZING. I just had them quote a Tokheim 39 short and bodywork alone was going to be $900 due to the poor condition of the doors (anyone got a primo condition set of unhinged type doors, the ones that slide under the top and lock at the bottom?) Still very fair considering the quality of the work they do. I would put my Wayne 60's paint and finsih against any show car. Like some of the other posts have mentioned, get to know the shop, and pay to get the results you want. I could have gone cheaper, used single stage paint, only 1 or 2 colors, left some small dents, etc. But I wanted a museum piece. It all depends what you want.

Honestly - it is rare to find a painter (a good one?)that is willing to apply color coats over someone elses prep work. His name and reputation will be based on your prep work.

Again - my $0.02 - You really want to use the same brand of primers/sealers/top coat paint. They are engineered to be compatible. Everything I have read on painting says this is Painting 101 practice. I have painted 2 cars and I would not do it any other way. Time/material are too valuable to risk having compatibility issues.

I paint 300+ cars per year and disagree. We use different brands of primers/surfacers/sealers and different clear coats depending on the job. We have had ZERO problems with paint issues.

thats the deal. the first thing they ask is who painted it? I cant let stuff go out looking like ***** It will get around fast that I do bad work. If the body work sucks the paint will be the same. marty