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#237372 Tue Mar 01 2011 10:35 AM
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OK, I am at the disassembly stage of the Tok 630. Thanks to Mark (one of the guys on this board) I have all the parts needed to get the sandblasting started on the smaller parts. HOWEVER - the question is to take the angle grinder to the outer skins or try to sand blast it. the metal is very solid, but pitted and the surface rust looks to be tough. I am on a budget, so blasting the skins will be labor intensive and could be quite costly. Has anyone used an angle grinder to get rid of the rust? If so, how did you like the results.

More questions to come...

Thanks in advance!!!

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TOM!!!!! PUT THE GRINDER DOWN, AND BACK AWAY SLOWLY!!!!

Try a chemical stripper first, then go from there. A grinder is very likely to do enough damage to make you cry.

I did a Restoration of the Month, on a low cost pump resto. I'm not at the computer that has that link, but hold toght, I'll find it.


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Chemical stripper eh? What is the brand and where can I get it? I am very interested as I am desperate to do the majority of this myself to truly experience it and to save some $$

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You can find chemical strippers at most "Home Supply" stores and/or auto parts stores.

Some do not react well with metal, so make sure the one you purchase is not too aggressive. Also purchase some kind of face mask and gloves. The fumes can be quite harsh on some brands.


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Using paint strippers can be very dangerous. The chemicals that remove paint can burn your eyes and skin severely. You can safely do it with proper handling with rubber gloves, face mask and respirator (if used indoors). There are "safer" strippers that work more slowly.

Paint strippers generally don't remove rust, just paint. There are dipping services that can remove rust, but no do-it-yourself with that.

Rust has to be removed by sand/media blasting or grinding and rotary wire brushing. Any of those can warp metal if overdone, heating up the panels. Smaller ares can be cleaned up with a grinder, but larger areas are more efficiently blasted.


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There is no paint (has been gone for years) and the only thing that is left is the rusty metal. I guess the media blasting is the only resort. frown

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If you are careful, one can use a wire wheel. As Jim said it is real easy to heat up an area. I have used a wheel on a few pumps in the past. I "hit" an area for a few minutes and then went to another. Don't use pressure or a high rpm, let the wheel do the work. Once the rust was "loosened up", I went ahead and hand sanded the rust with 180 grit wet sandpaper. Use a board, not just your hand, so you get even coverage.

Might be worth the time, to try the different techniques first on a old fender or light sheet metal. If you burn and/or warp that, then go to media blasting.


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I would sand blast it with fine grit of sand or Aluminum oxide. After basting use a small sander with a 2" scotch bright wheel to smooth it out. If you have small pits they can be filled it with bondo and DA/hand sand it out.

If you use a angle grinder with grinding disc (25/60 grit) you will made it worse....and then you will have fix that!!

Randy


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NO GRINDING! I have used a fellow before that is in the car restoration business and he has the ability to completely submerge large pieces and that kind of bath takes everything off. Last pump that he did for me cost $80. Those guys are experienced and usually reasonable! Remember--NO GRINDING!


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Why not consider just sanding and lightly using a wire wheel and rattle can it? Lots of people, myself included, like the looks of a rougher restoration on the appropriate pump. There are also chemical "rust encapsulators" that you can use to seal the rust after you have taken off all you can. Not all pumps have to be "museum quality" to be a great looking pump. Maybe this is the way to go since this is your first and you have a budget.
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as Kevin said,"dipping" works and gets rid of all rust,even in nooks and crannies that you cant reach with a wheel.guy here was about 120.00 for a whole visible gotta make sure you only dip the steel parts and no pot metal or such.the chemicals will eat that stuff up.also the chemical rust treatment stuff does work,but its about 15 bucks for a bottle here.i use it and seems to work well.alot depends on what kind of resto you are doing.will it be outside?do you want it perfect?etc..a perfect resto and paint job is not cheap,but you can do a very nice job on a budget.takes alot of hours though.but thats the fun of it!! jmo


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I'm looking to get it as perfect as I possible. I dont want any rust to show and I am willing to work my butt off for results. I had no clue about the rust dip thing. That sounds pretty nice. So an auto resto shop would know about that stuff?

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I definately would not grind them Strip first then use a Sanding "Flapper" wheel. These work great for stuff like this and will not leave any gouges in the metal that angle grinders will.


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Any shop that specializes in restoration of older cars should be able to put you onto the right track to find someone that does it.


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