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#306211 Mon Feb 20 2012 01:28 PM
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won this hastings clock off ebay a couple weeks ago.when i got it the light sockets had been removed.so.... i took it all apart,cleaned it real good,and at the suggestion of george johnston,and wayne from waynes neon clocks,i "stabilized"the face.this involved taking a peice of clear laminate,and putting it on the back of the face,so no more flaking can occur.was a little hesitant on doing it,but it worked out perfect.then i went to menards and bought some replacement porc sockets(fit just like the originals) and now she lights up.a very unique clock!!
This is how she looks with the lights on
.

Last edited by oldnfuelish; Mon Feb 20 2012 01:30 PM.

Looking for gas,oil related clocks,especially neon and spinners .clock repair available. Mick
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Looks Great Mick!!! With all the clocks you have been buying you should never be late for anything!!! LOL!!!

Last edited by Esse's Garage; Mon Feb 20 2012 01:32 PM.

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Mick it looks good smile


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Hasting's rings must of made your oil pump lock up! ("stop oil pumping") LOL ... Nice clock Mick!


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nice deco clock..


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Sweet clock!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Mike
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Thanks all I can't even believe I got that second hand straight again.


Looking for gas,oil related clocks,especially neon and spinners .clock repair available. Mick
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are you going to paint the second hand Red?


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It is,just cant see it in the dark pic.that is the only piece I painted btw,the first pic is before I did anything to it.

Last edited by oldnfuelish; Mon Feb 20 2012 08:51 PM.

Looking for gas,oil related clocks,especially neon and spinners .clock repair available. Mick
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Mick
Can you please explain the process of the application of the clear laminate in greater detail? Also where did you buy the clear laminate?
Thanks,


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Dave,here's what I did.first, I was told to clean as best I could ,and use clear vinyl.since I did not want to do anymore damage to it,I used only warm water and a soft cloth to clean only the areas that were not flaking .let it dry for an hr.the guy here who did the vinyl lettering on my truck had clear vinyl and also clear laminate,which is thinner than the vinyl.took a sheet of that,and laid it sticky side up on my kitchen table,then very carefully lowered the glass down at an angle,until it rested flay on the laminate.wound up with almost no bubbles.after lightly pressing with my hands,I took a small wooden-roller,I think these were used for wallpaper back in the day,,turned the glass over and rolled it lightly then I just trimmed off the edges.again all of this was done on my kitchen table,flat and clean.the laminate seemed to stick very well,and now it shouldnt loose any more paint.by no means am I an expert at this,but it's what I did and it seemed to work well.The shadow you see in the pic,is actually the motor and a wire,and I may reposition the top bulbs to see if I can get more light to the center.


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That is a cool cock there Mick.


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Thanks for the detailed explanation. Just a thought....when you say light blubs; I think of incandescent light blubs which produce a fair amount of heat. Wouldn't it be better to use cfl's (compact fluorescent light blub)as they produce very little heat? Now, that the rear surface of the glass face is covered with laminate all of that heat must be absorbed by the laminate before it is dissipated by the glass face.


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If you keep the lights to 25w or less the heat is less than the cfl. I have some that have been in continuous use for several yrs

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i only have 4 11 watt bulbs in it.also as with the pam clocks,i believe this is vented in such a way as to help dissipate the heat.unfortunatly,with the position of the brackets for the sockets,the cfls will not fit.other thing is,i do not keep all of my clocks on all the time,just cause if i did,my electric meter would be spinnin so fast,im afraid it would take off.if i were to reverse the position of the top sockets,i might be able to fit in cfls,and usually use them.


Looking for gas,oil related clocks,especially neon and spinners .clock repair available. Mick

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