#39152
Thu Dec 08 2005 07:01 PM
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on one of my pumps it seems that water got into the switch thru the top socket.needless to say its pretty corroded.any tricks to getting these off and rewiring the lights?i know once i get involved in it ill have to remove all the socket screws to hook up the new wires.dont want to trust that old cloth wire!thanks mick
Looking for gas,oil related clocks,especially neon and spinners .clock repair available. Mick
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Please - NO offers to Buy or Sell in this forum category
Statements such as, "I'm thinking about selling this." are considered an offer to sell.
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#39153
Thu Dec 08 2005 07:26 PM
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OUR LOCAL HARDWARE STORE HAS PORCELIN LIGHT SOCKETS WITH PIPE THREADS.ITS JUST 1/2 PIPE VERY INEXPENSIVE SOMETIMES I WILL JUST BUY NEW TO SAVE THE HASSLE OF USEING ALL THE OLD RUSTED PIPES. GOOD LUCK TOMD
TOMD
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#39154
Thu Dec 08 2005 08:03 PM
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The sockets are screwed on to a metal flange and the flange is screwed to piping and inside all the piping is some black stuff that looks like glass. You can heat the pipes with a torch or mapp gas and this stuff will pour out... don't breathe it! Then you can run new wiring and sockets and switches and your back in business. Lowes or Home depot sells the sockets.
Looking for anything from Hoosier Pete, Platolene 500 and Red Bird.
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#39155
Thu Dec 08 2005 08:30 PM
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I THINK THAT HARD BLACK STUFF IS JUST TAR OR SOMETHING LIKE IT. TAR AND MOLASSES? IT DEF STINKS WHEN YOU HEAT IT UP! DOC @ TAG.WEST
DOC @ THE AMERICAN GARAGE
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#39156
Fri Dec 09 2005 09:10 AM
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hey guys, i rewire all of mine, and JJ and DOC have it right. i break the porceline off the end and soak the screws with PB PLASTER or some sort of other oil, then i just unscrew em. put new sockets and wiring in it and use the same switch. and yes that black stuff is a mess too. but if you heat it like JJ said, it melts right out and you can feed new lamp wire or bigger if it's an outside pump, right thought. and your back in business. just look at the light sockets, there are a few different kind. i get my wire from lowe's and my sockets from home depot. the home depot sockets have shorter screws. and on some of the pumps, the long ones will bottom out before they get tight. so i just buy a box at a time from home depot. lowe's has a better selection of wire colors....LOL i'm kind of picky when i wire em...i hate to have brown cord, with a black base, when i can have black wire with a black base....whats wrong with me?....LOL take care guys, mikey
mikey
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#39157
Fri Dec 09 2005 11:21 AM
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Doesn't that black stuff contain PCB's? You know, one of the worst carcinogens????
Wanted: Gas pump globes:Sinclair & affiliates, IL companies. Ripple bodies. Anything Sinclair, Stoll, Pierce, 4 Bros. http://www.lastgas15.com/
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#39158
Fri Dec 09 2005 02:53 PM
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thanks all!won't get to it for a couple days,but now i know what to expect.doesn't sound too bad.also i didn't think i would get those sockets out without bustin em.have a great weekend!mick
Looking for gas,oil related clocks,especially neon and spinners .clock repair available. Mick
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#39159
Fri Dec 09 2005 09:51 PM
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I've been contacted by an Oldgas.com enthusiast who is a pro electrician. He said to warn everyone that that black stuff in the wiring gives off dangerous fumes and shouldn't be heated if you value your health. Even if it doesn't get you right away, it will accumulate and make you sick later. Be careful.
------------------ Jim "Oldgas" Potts Your host and moderator
Jim "Oldgas" Potts Your host and moderator
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#39160
Sat Dec 10 2005 05:28 AM
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JIM:
I WANT EVERYONE HERE ON OLDGAS TO KNOW THAT I'M NOT 100% SURE WHAT THE BLACK TAR IS. BUT I WANT YOU GUYS TO TREAT THIS STUFF WITH RESPECT. IF IT'S THE SAME STUFF THAT THEY USE TO PUT IN THE BALLASTS OF FLORESCENT FIXTURES, IT CONTAINS PCBS. YOU DO NOT WANT THIS ON YOUR SKIN OR TOO BREATH IT. I WANT YOU GUYS TO BE SAFE AND ENJOY YOUR PUMPS FOR YEARS TO COME... HOPE THIS HELPS.
DOUG(BLACKTEE)
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#39161
Sat Dec 10 2005 05:58 AM
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EXTREMELY GREAT INFORMATION! NEVER THOUGHT ABOUT WHAT THAT STUFF WAS, BUT NOW THAT YOU MENTION IT, IT DEF RESEMBLES THE SAME STUFF THAT'S INSIDE A BALLAST OR A TRANSFORMER ON A TELEPHONE POLE. BE CAREFUL. DON'T HEAT IT UP TO THE POINT WHERE IT'LL GIVE OFF FUMES. BEST ACTION IS TO WORK WITH IT COLD OR LEAVE IT ALONE ALTOGETHER.
DOC @ TAG.WEST
DOC @ THE AMERICAN GARAGE
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#39162
Sat Dec 10 2005 08:04 AM
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OK....what kind of "SICK"? i have done alot of em that way....now i'm a little worried. long term sick, or woozy not feeling well sick? mikey
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#39163
Sat Dec 10 2005 08:17 AM
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Sick as in a cumulative effect that can lead to cancer. The stuff in question is called "potting" and was used to waterproof and insulate old-school electronics. It was used in transformers, as Doc said, as well as ballasts, some types of capacitors, etc. It's been replaced by a modern substitute that is PCB-free. (You'll see modern transformers advertised as "Non-PCB." It's the PCB component that is to be avoided at all costs.
I would take out the tubes in question and replace them, rather than boiling out the potting. It would definitely be adviseable to work with the stuff cold, and with gloves.
Wes
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#39164
Sat Dec 10 2005 08:25 AM
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The "tar" material was used to keep the wiring explosion proof. Sometimes you can chisel it out. As far as heating it, just use caution. I've heated it and pulled it out in chunks. It has to come out if you are re-using the conduit and boxes.
------------------ ROD [Mich.]
ROD [Mich.]
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#39165
Sat Dec 10 2005 09:30 AM
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Yes i was told it was bad for you. I heated mine out side with my back to the wind so the fumes will go away from me. I know i have done worse things than that to myself. LOL
Someone comes up with a better idea let us know!
Looking for anything from Hoosier Pete, Platolene 500 and Red Bird.
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#39166
Sat Dec 10 2005 10:28 AM
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The porcelain sockets with the 1/2" threaded base is a Leviton 10051. Any electrical supply can order them for you if they don't stock them. They come in boxes of 10 and cost way less than the 6.00 each you normally see them advertized for. If you do a lot of pumps, 10 doesn't go far.
For removing the tar like stuff from the conduit, I usually heat it enough to pull the wires out and let it cool. Then use a 1/2" drill to cut it out. Wear a mask because it makes dust which is probably as bad as the fumes. For those curved or tight areas where the drill won't reach. Heat is about the quickest and easiest. Just do it outdoors. And catch the drippings in a metal can so you can dispose of them.
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#39167
Sat Dec 10 2005 10:58 AM
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Boy oh Boy Am I in trouble (I think)..
Heated a lot of that Sh** out, having no idea what it was.. Inside, in the vise no less.. Stink oh did it stink.. Need-less to say, never never again..
From now on, it's outside with the wind at my back AND a mask on...
It must be that I'm also "OLD & FOOLISH"..
------------------ Regards .... Jerry J .....
Regards .... Jerry J .....
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#39168
Sat Dec 10 2005 11:29 AM
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Hey Jerry Mick is oldnfuelish lol
Wanted Owens Motor Oil & Mobiloil Gargoyle. Brad Ralston & my website is www.petrobarn.com
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#39169
Sun Dec 11 2005 01:50 PM
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Ive always just stood or hung my conduits in a 55 gallon burn barrel full of burning wood.Walked away and retrieved them the next day, cool and ready to work on.I had a hunch that stuff was nasty for ya......
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#39170
Sun Dec 11 2005 05:05 PM
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but jerry,ive never done this before!glad i took the time to ask,you betcha!
Looking for gas,oil related clocks,especially neon and spinners .clock repair available. Mick
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#39171
Sun Dec 11 2005 05:14 PM
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GASGREEZER:
THERE YOU GO BRO, I WAS GOING TO SUGGEST THAT BUT I DIDN'T THINK ALOT OF PEOPLE CAN DO THAT WHERE THEY LIVE. S... ISN'T GOOD FOR THE AIR OR GROUND. WE USE TO BURN RABBIT, OLD WIRE WITH THE INSULATION ON IT. IT WILL PUT UP BLACK SMOKE LIKE BURNING TIRES. TOXIC AS YOU CAN GET. WOULD DO IT AT NIGHT IN THE FALL. IF WE GET CAUGHT UP HERE NOW IN MICHIGAN, CAN LEAD TO A $10,OOO FINE.
BUT YOU HAVE THE BEST IDEA YET, THAT OR MAYBE A CAMPFIRE. TRUST ME YOU DON'T WANT THIS STUFF NEAR YOU. COURSE SMOKERS WILL BLAME IT ON SOMETHING WHEN THEY COME DOWN WITH LUNG CANCER ??? SOME GUYS NEED TO HEED THE WARNING ON THIS SITE !!!
BLACKTEE
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#39172
Sat Mar 25 2006 11:17 AM
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I was trying to find the porcelain light sockets w/ the half-inch threaded base at both Lowe's and Home Depot, and didn't have any luck. They didn't know what it was I was trying to buy.
I tried the Leviton part # 10051 on the Internet and still had no luck.
Anyone out there got any more info??? I need to buy a box of 10 to start out with. Thanks ahead of time...
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#39173
Sat Mar 25 2006 12:21 PM
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RE: Keyless Light Sockets...
Hey Midway I have the same problem. I need about 50+ of them a year. I tried to buy from the local shops - (all of them) and they are trying to knock me for $7.00 each too. I even called one company I found that had them on the net for $4.56 each and tried to buy a box of 500 of them for a lesser price, no luck - close I could get at a qty of 500 was 4.50 each.
So now, I am trying to contact Leveiton directly and see what it takes to become a "dealer" and buy at the retailers cost. Heck if it takes a tax ID # I have one of those!
HELP ME TOO!
Travis E. Towle Topeka, Kansas
785-357-1004
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#39174
Sat Mar 25 2006 01:09 PM
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Anyone considered using 12v bulbs? Available up to 100W in a standard base. Low voltage means you can use the original switch without giving an electrical inspector a brain hemmorage (could use a relay if the switch can't handle the amperage anymore). Probably the easiest place to find them would be a marine supply place... http://www.go2marine.com/g2m/action/GoBP...ulbs_ancor.html
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#39175
Sat Mar 25 2006 01:12 PM
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Travis good luck on trying to be a "dealer" for Leviton. They sell to places like EOFF, Platt And North Coast Electric Dist. here on the west coast, these companies use thousands of keyless fixtures --EACH Month. Your 500 won't impress, but one never knows. Like I said, I hope you have good luck. If they won't sell direct you might want to check on-line for companies like Satco, they might sell to the public. Good Luck.
Bob
Looking for Tide Water/ Tide Water-Associated/ Tidewater items
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#39176
Sat Mar 25 2006 02:17 PM
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I kinda like the idea of the 12 volt lighting... That is worth looking into. I have about 8 pumps outside that are buring a min of 3 60watt bulbs 12-14 hours a night...
I have the hidden bulbs using the 20 watt savers, but still that bill gets kinda high!
Travis E. Towle Topeka, Kansas
785-357-1004
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#39177
Sat Mar 25 2006 05:32 PM
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I'd be tempted to replace the entire conduit system as opposed to removing the potting sealer. I used to work in an electric supply house in the 70's. Then, that black sealer was sold in bricks, looked just like black glass wrapped in paper. The ones we sold (although I can't ever recall selling one, the same ones got inventoried every year) were an asphalt product - I recall reading the label and asking about them. The PCB products, as far as I know, were in liquid transformer cooling oils, and in semi-liquids - like in a flourescent ballast. That is their main function - state-stability under varying temperatures. I can't really see a reason for PCBs to be in potting sealer - that stuff was for arc-sealing rated explosion-proof wiring systems. But who knows - better safe than sorry. If low-dose exposure to PCBs was all that toxic, all the industrial electricians of the past would be in trouble. We sold a brand of PCB transformer oil called "Cool Blue," and I remember one old guy used to rub it on his arthritic elbow. He was 80 when I left. Low voltage lighting - a watt is a watt. Be aware that a 20 watt lamp at 12 volts draws roughly roughly 1.7 amps. At 117 volts, only 0.17 amps. Plus, there is an efficiency loss as you convert 117 VAC to 12 VDC. So - for the same wattage, you'd end up with a higher electricity usage.
Always looking for Texaco Canada, Supertest, White Rose, McColl Frontenac, and Miller Oil Co. info.
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#39178
Sat Mar 25 2006 06:05 PM
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Darn! But thanks for the info. I guess I will stick with the original type set up.
Travis E. Towle Topeka, Kansas
785-357-1004
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