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Hi again! I'm looking for advice on paint sprayers. I'm using a craftsman HVLP suction feed sprayer and I get very inconsistent results. Would I do better with a gravity feed sprayer? Or am I just not a good painter?

I have been using gravity feed guns for about 15yrs or so.. They are more consistant without a doubt.You can spray wider patterns and get more paint to the surface easier,plus the gun is lighter and more agile for spraying around corners and panels that require you to stretch the arm.

I dont like an HVLP except for when spraying metallic colors. I would say buy the cheapest
NON-HVLP gravity feed gun and try it out. The reason I say cheapest,is the SATA Jet gun that I use costs over 500.00/ You can get a 100.00 verson that will do what you want it to do..I promise you will get better results. Also read the back of the paint cans for instructions on air pressure,
flash times,and drying times..
Many paints recommend different air pressures for best results.. Also use a 1/4 to 1/2 overlap on each pass. This will prevent streaking.. Hope this helps.......Brian....

I use a devilbiss gti but I am thinking of going to a pluss. I use a finishline gravity for primer which is a good gun for the money

ward

I have been using a HVLP paint system from the TIP company for about 15 years, and really like it..It has its own compressor, and puts out clean, dry air...I have painted every thing from polyester primer to lacquer with it and no problems..and doesnt have much overspray...I think one of the secrets is to clean your gun thoroughly, after each use.I paid about $500 for mine, and figure it has paid for its self, in savings on paint that normally blows into the air..RD

In my opinion inconsistent results are either a result of the painter or not mixing the paint the same or not adjusting the paint for conditions(hot weather, etc.) I have painted with various guns but always come back to the binks #7 I started with. You lose some paint in the air but I always get an awesome finish with no problems. The gravity guns seem clunky and not very well balanced, I guess if I forced myself to use it all the time it would seem normal. I have several name brand guns and some cheap knock offs I have bought at the shows over the years and I agree that theres not a whole lot of difference in the quality as long as you don't overuse the imitations. Rich B

I have painted lots of cars with Binks #7 paint guns in the old days. An internally clean and adjusted suction gun like that can still do a nice job. I tried to find a suction HVLP gun that worked as well as a #7 and never found one. That's when I changed years ago to gravity feed HVLP paint guns. An HVLP gravity gun will use less paint, put less out into air pollution and can atomize better for a smoother finish.

Much of the difficulty in painting is with technique, selecting the correct material and mix ratios, clean gun interior passages, clean compressed and ambient air. Paint guns are often blamed for technique or other problems.

If your results are inconsistant, figure out what is changing to turn from good to bad. Clean the gun the best you can. Check the spray pattern to be a nice symetrical tall thin oval. Make sure your activator and reducer are the correct choice for the current temperature. Practice holding the gun at the same distance from the surface and making the same overlaps consistantly. You can practice spraying plain water onto non-glossy cardboard to see if you are getting wet and dry spots with your technique.

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Jim "Oldgas" Potts
Your host and moderator

I can honestly say I have used some pretty crappy guns over the years and still came out with some good results.Practice,practice ,practice, even with the best gun you can still have errors.
Just remember...there is no such thing as a PERFECT paint job.
I would think there is some info w/pics on technique
out on the web somewhere.

I agree wholeheartedly........my dad says all the runs are in the bottom of the gun. People feel that spraying on all the material makes a better finish, when it usually causes runs or sags. Put 3/4/5 coats as recommended by the paint can label and then STOP. Rich B

I've found some helpful info on this site just browsing the Forum. They also have a pretty simple "How To" section. http://www.autobody101.com/

Let me start by saying that I am not an expert by no means. I have no experience with painting except for one time when I had a young guy show me how to strip,do the bondo work, prime and paint a Tokheim 300 in Texaco red.I did a pretty good job!
I have owned an automotive paint store for twenty four years selling PPG paint.We have sold almost every gun made with the exception of a few brands. I have seen spraying evolve from 2-1/2 & 5 gal pressure pots to 2 qt pots, agitator cups for suction feed guns to non hvlp gravity feed to hvlp and reduced pressure gravity feed guns.
I know that many people swear by inexpensive generic guns and I think that in a non production(automotive)environment they're okay. I have gone the route of offering generic(cheap) guns to fill the needs of my customers. After untold times of having to replace guns and parts, I decided two or three years ago to quit selling these guns.
I do sell Sharpe's Finex hvlp, which is an Iwata knockoff and have had great results with only a couple of cups and needles to replace. So far we have sold 88 of the full size guns and 88 of the detail guns with the majority of the detail guns being sold to the Nissan plant in Smyrna.
I believe in the old addage:"You get what you pay for." Sata's are now in the $600-$800 range but they are truly German engineering at it's best. We sell quite a few of the Iwatas and some Devilbiss.
Today's hvlp and rp guns if set up right
will deliver as slick a finish as any convential gun ever has with 30-40% less material useage and less overspray. That is of course if the application is by an experienced painter.
I guess that I have rambled on way too much! Let me address my take on the original post.NYPUMPS says that he is using a Craftsman HVLP. What size tank and horsepower is the compressor you are using? What size I.D. is the air hose. Also,are you using high flow hvlp plugs and disconnects. This can affect the finish tremendously. What size needle-nozzle does the gun have and what kind of product are you spraying.Be sure that you have the correct air pressure at the gun inlet. Most manufacturers gave psi required at the AIR CAP,not the inlet for California air quality standards. A lot of people think that 8-10 psi at the nozzle means going into the gun.You won't get very good results like this.
One of the greatest problems that I see every day in shops that we sell to is incorrect use(or rather non-use) of temperature appropriate hardners(catalysts)and reducers. PPG hammers on guys in their paint schools that slower is faster. My outside tech rep tells guys to forget right now that they even have 85 degree reducer. Use only DT895 and DT898.And PLEASE, do not use a fast reducer in primer. IT DOES NOT DRY FASTER! It caps over!
With all this being said, nothing beats practice! Make sure as stated earlier that you are following mixing ratios per paint manufacturers and using equipment set up per their recommendations.
Hope this helps!Pat.

Pat

I tried to email you but it was sent back? My question to you is a bout ppg fleet books. I would really like a fleet book for matching colours on pumps but all my local guy in canada can get is a folder with a few pages of chips. I have seen a picture of a ppg fleet book that had long skinny chips in plastic sheets are you familiar with this book? Do you have any idea how much they cost? product number or if you can get them?

thanks ward

Hey Ward,
Got your email while I was at Iowa or right after.Sorry I hadn't got back. Yes, I know which book you're talking about. Unfortunately, that book has been discontinued for probably 8-10 years.

Problem with most of today's fleet chip books are that they are usually for the PPG
Delfleet Polyurethane high solids low voc paint. Goes a lot further than conventional paint,but costs more and has more additives.

I'll ask my PPG rep if he might possibly have one.Give me some time.Pat.

Sorry pat

I thought there was no way you could of got my email as it said it bounced. I really do appreciate your help on this. My local guy here in canada is really quite good but he has no idea what I am talking about. It is a little frustrating when you know that there is the capability to mix 80 000 different colours but all I want is too see a bunch of reds yellows blues greens whites ect.

thanks ward