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Hello, Our museum is currently getting ready to have our Wayne 615 painted in Flying A red and Green. We are fortunate to have a local resident who has volunteered to purchase the paint and paint it. I have successfully removed the top and rods, but the glass is still on the pump because it had been sealed with some type of putty. Besides digging the putty out with a dental tool, what other method could be used to soften or dig out the putty without cracking the original glass cylinder? It is currently lying on its side with the cylinder supported so there is no stress on the glass. Also three of the rods on the large threaded end bent, (I still cannot figure why since the others are still straight.) Can they be rebent straight using heat or should I purchase reproductions? Any help appreciated.
WJCurator




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Here is a recent, amazing instructional for removing the clynder.
Thanx Tim and OLDGAS!!

http://www.oldgas.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=400691#Post400691


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WJ: Whatever you do , get that pump vertical NOW. It is so easy to snap a glass cylinder on the bottom edge when left horizontal as Tim said. And, I learned the hard way like others in the summer of 1985, what NOT to do after removing an American cylinder. I sat it upright against my garage wall on the concrete where nearby my 6 month old daughter was in a "bouncy chair". 1 hr later I heard a loud "crack", turned around and 1/4 inch glass was all over my daughter and the garage. Luckily she was not hurt and lucky MY WIFE WAS NOT AROUND ! Now I wrap all cylinders in heavy moving blankets after removal.

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Leave it in if at all possible. You will never forget that "tink" sound. Dave


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Forgot , KUDOS to Tim for such an excellent instructional manual. Wish that was available to me years ago. I've only lost 3 in 25 yrs of this. As Tim said, some are ready to go and can't be helped so don't knock yourself if it happens and follow his excellent directions. Rob

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Thanks to everyone who has given me advice on this project. I think what I am going to do now is get the rod threads cleaned so the nuts can go on/off real easy. Put the rods and top back on, Have the painter come and pick it up and take it to his place. Then I can take the top and rods off again so they can be painted. mask off the glass cylinder and paint the metal bottom piece of the cylinder. I will have him paint the skins while off the frame and then the base. I will put the rods and top back on and bring back the frame back to the museum and put the skins back on. Does this sound reasonable? Also three of the rods on the large threaded end bent, (I still cannot figure why since the others are still straight.) Can they be rebent straight using heat or should I purchase reproductions?
WJCurator

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My experience is that horizonal or verticle, if they are going to break, they will break. I believe it is not the position of the pump, but the stress put on the cylinder by how tight the rods are. My last one broke when I loosened the rods.

Jack Sim

Last edited by Jack Sim; Fri Apr 26 2013 11:49 PM.

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I'm with you. I took one off and placed it on a workbench to clean with Windex and it cracked 15 minutes later. I wish that I knew the answer. I thought that glass was more stable than that. I hate messing with them. What is the name of that compound used to cement the cylinder to the metal? Dave


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Litharge glycerin or something like that Dave. I have lost several alos.


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I've restored quite a few visibles. Broke the first cylinder learning the process. None since then. I've always felt that these were made at a point in history when they took a lot of stress and abuse. 1920's not a modern era? If the project is approached with care and patience, you'll do fine...Common sense should prevail. I don't have any problems with them. Paul www.severngaspumps.com

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I took 2 hours removing a cylinder only to have it crack while it was sitting on a workbench. Some of them are possessed. LOL Dave


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I cried like a school girl, but it didn't help...it was still broken. LOL
Dave


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I have my 5 gallon Fry pump sitting on my side walk with a fake cylinder in it because the guy I bought it from thought he had to remove the glass to clean it good. Just me but I would replace one rod at a time and never remove another cylinder.


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I'm with you on this one. Leave it alone unless you ABSOLUTELY have to remove it. Dave


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Wow, I don't feel so bad now! I loosened the nuts slowly, in a star pattern, on my Boyle/Dayton Viso and everything went smoothly and without much effort ( it has been hooked up in the barn for the last 60 years, so no rust). Then about 5 minutes later I hear this SNAP. I thought the wrench I had left on the aluminum ladder fell off. Went back to the pump, and no the wrench was still on the ladder. Started to wipe off some of the penetrating oil, and then noticed a crack about 1" from the top all the way around the cylinder....then another about 2" up from the bottom all the way around the cylinder....and all I did was loosen the nuts slightly! So I guess you never know. Was sure frustrating! You don't notice it unless you look close, but will have to deal with it soon when I take it more apart.

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tommyboy,
WELCOME to the Jarvis Club for Breakin Glass! laugh

Anyone heard from John recently?

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Possessed...Like some women. Damned if you do and damned if you don't do. Dave


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