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I have 2 Morrison Fig 126 visible gas pump nozzles. The polished one has the letter "B" and other I cant quite make out. The unrestored nozzle is 8" long and the other is 6". The Morrison script is different between the two but it appears that they are the same Figure model number but cant make out the letter between the 2. What is the difference. I had an Ebay search for the last 4 years looking for an original Morrison 126. These are hard to find. I tried to remove the hose with a 1-7/8 wrench on the nozzle end adding some heat, PB blaster and the hose end in a vise, no luck. I think I will take my time using a die grinder and make 1 to 2 slits down to where the threads meet the nozzle and tap it out.

The unrestored 8" nozzle is bronze and the polished one is brass.

Try heat and then in a couple of days try again. Tap lightly but do not try to take off till several days later. You also after the second time of heat, can put some liquid wrench in between and let set before starting. Even try to tighten a little after taping to maybe just break loose.

Put it in a vise and use a pipe wrench. Use a cheater pipe on the pipe wrench if needed. Wrap the nozzle up good before putting it in the vise.

Heat it and cool it several times. It will loosen up. Dave

A little trick I use when putting something good in a vise in I give it a few wraps of fine emery paper. The emery paper will bite into the item without doing any damage. The vise jaws will bite into the emery paper and not the nozzle. Emery paper will also hold up to heat it you are going to be heating the joint.

After 5 or 6 heating's, PB Blaster and wrenching over 200 foot pounds using a big wrench and a vise it won't move. I have no doubt if I pushed harder I would twist the nozzle in half. I used a small die grinder cut the male hose fittings into 8 sections down to the base of the nozzle then used a dremel with a smaller die grinder fitting to get as close to the base as possible without damaging the nozzle or its threads. I tapped the sections inward with a hammer breaking them off at the base of the male threads. I soaked what was left then twisted the last 2 sections with a vise grip and the remaining pieces backed out of the nozzle threads without damaging anything. The steel fitting was very rusted and I soaked the nozzle threads in WD40 then naval jelly to get the remaining rust off. The end result is the nozzle threads look like new. Someone tried a pipe wrench at one time so I have to smooth all 8 sides as best I can before sanding and polishing. I still don't know why the nozzles appear to have the same fig number but are different in dimensions make up. Can anyone enlighten me?

McD's Big Mac has the same name as it did in 1970, but ain't the same today as it was in 1970

Don't polish it...clean it up and leave it. Do you want it to look "new" ? Dave

I had a feeling you knew what you were doing when it came to getting that thing apart so I saved my two cents for now. GOOD JOB!

Morrison brothers made the 126A AND 126B. 126a did not have the heavy ridges that keeps it from slipping out of tank neck. This may be a A. Seen it on ebay,glad you got it.

It must be an "A" model, it has small ridges to keep it from backing out on the top and bottom. I have not measured yet but the hose inlet side is much larger in diameter than the "B" model and will require a reducer to fit the original hose fitting. I would keep the nozzle unpolished but have already over restored the pump and painted it Sherwin Williams urethane. My Fry 5 gallon pump is an early model with the original cast iron base and original cast iron round inspection doors and all internals in place. The original brass UL tag and Guarantee Liquid Measure tags are still in place, just intalled new rivits. If I'm not mistaken this dates this pump to before they became Fry. The pump must have been under a roof all of its life, all of the original hardware with the tall hex heads bolts were still intact, I glass beaded all pieces and reused them. I only had to replace one square drive steel bolt in the base and I found the same style as the original. The original cylinder had a crack the entire length and I replaced it with an acrylic. I replaced the steel cylinder rods with brass and although I think the pump predates the Standard Oil Crowns I found an original one with the brass base ring and placed it on the original cast iron top holder. It also has the "To Car and To Storage floating "cork" signs" on the over flow tube inside the cylinder. I just need an original glass cylinder to finsh it off. I found a nice one with the "Fry" insignia etched on the cylinder, quarter inch, wavy glass, bubbles and all on Ebay several years ago but was outbid once the price came close to double the cost of the reproduction glass cylinders. I'm still in the market for one.