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I bought this Dual Automatic Parking Meter a while back and it was a mess but seemed to be complete and I figured that I would use it for parts if needed. Once I was able to get into the top of it by taking it to Allied security, downtown Spokane, I found out that it was complete and in decent shape on the inside, no broken glass or missing parts but most of the main parts had come off the mount on the inside. No big deal and I've had the internals working, ticking away on my work bench for months now with a slide of a dime or nickel. Pennies sometimes kick it over 12 minutes but the coin slot has a 'govenor' that makes only dimes work when putting a coin in from the outside.



I still could not get into the bottom because of the lock cly is some sort or circular key that was impossible for the guys at Allied to get open, so, the bottom was still locked down, but I started to look at it and found my self making up a plan. I really enjoy the layout of this Parking Meter and the Lines are visually apealing, and it's not a (no offence) Park O Meter or one of the other more common type that you see everywhere.
I knew that I wanted something unique for a base, something that would really make the Meter stand out and for this and I started to look at table bases, ashtray stands and bases, and ornate posts and, and and... I felt kinda crazy looking for something that would work and look too cool but I was not finding anything inspiring until I went to a local auction house to preview what was comming up and in the parking lot were these.


THAT WAS IT! They used these for gating off their parking lot on the auction nites.
I still had the drive shaft from a 1969 "M" code Mustang (351 Windsor w/ 10.7 to 1 comp. from Ford, 4 barrel and dual exhaust, 290HP laugh ) automatic, that was my first Mustang and I still had the stock 13" (1"+ bigger than stock Mustang GT front Rotors) front rotors from my 96 Ford SVT Mystic Cobra Mustang, that I've sold, because I replaced all rotors on it with drilled and slotted rotors.
So, there was my plan for the base but if I did that, what was I going to do with it for a paint scheme to tie it all together?
I was going thru the BJ auction results and saw the double head Dual Automatics that went thru and that took away all thoughts of painting it the way I was planning to.


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I was still struggling with the lower door lock and I wanted to drop it off at a shop to start the fabrication but I could not get into the bottom where the change box was and where the head of the bolt was at to be able to attach it to a mounting pole or whatever. I went ahead with carefully dissembling all the outer and inner pieces and put them in baggies.
I wanted to take the tag off the rear that is picd above (says Canton Ohio) but it is rivited with tiny rivits and most of the writing was toast so, it stayed on while everything else came off besides the stuff I could not get to because of the lower lock.
I started to gently pry on the door because I noticed it was a little loose. I had to be very careful to not overpry in any one area because of causing indents. Slowly I worked it and it pryed open a little more. It was still not enough so I decided to take it into the shop and see it they could take the pins out before doing the rest of the fabrication. They took out the pins and IT STILL WOULD NOT OPEN THE LOWER DOOR! Jeez, these guys really protected their dimes!! What, It's a max of what $20 in dimes that would fit down there,,, but I guess $20 was worth a lot more than the last few decades I've been living.
I picked it back up and then took it back to Allied and they worked some SERIOUS magic and got it open!!! YAAAAA and Props to those guys and their skills,,, and I think I only ended up paying less than $40 total for the 2 locks and 2 lock 'picks'!

I gently dissembled the rest of the parts and got em in a baggie and took it back to that shop, Tripleplate Chrome of Spokane http://www.tripleplatechrome.com/ and worked out with them what I had visioned in my head with what was going to be possible due to materials and desired effect. The rotor was resurfaced and blasted due to some rust flake and the drive shaft had to be cut so that the Parking meter head was about 51".
The Parking meter head needed to be attached somehow with a collar to smoothly tie in the meter to the drive shaft. I also said I wanted to be able to remove the Parking Meter.
,,,, and strip the Parking meter head outside and polish it up to a mirror finish!!
That was a couple of weeks ago and I got a call earlier this week from them saying that it was ready.


!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Now on to the next stage. Paint and reassembly. I want to do some work on cleaning up the welds and other stuff as I come across it before paint. I'll post as I make some progress.

Anyone have sugestions about what I should do for a paint scheme for the base???
Thanx in advance for your thoughts!!!

Last edited by Man-Cave-Shoppe; Fri Mar 29 2013 01:06 AM.

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Looks awesome. Of coarse I do like a parking meter or two.
Mike

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Thanx Mike!
I just wish I had a shop to do this in, by my own hands but with time and planning, I will have one soon on top of the thin ancient concrete pad that is still there from the creamery that was on my property around 1912.


LOOKING-4:WELDING SIGNS,Charter/Finance/PulOil/Trulite/TruTest-Oils,True's gas CORALINE/RAINBOW, Gardner 70 items of Yakima wa., Wa/Or/Id Chief items
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In about a month, it will be finished and this gives you the idea of how I'm thinking.


LOOKING-4:WELDING SIGNS,Charter/Finance/PulOil/Trulite/TruTest-Oils,True's gas CORALINE/RAINBOW, Gardner 70 items of Yakima wa., Wa/Or/Id Chief items
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LOOKIE WHAT I JUST GOT BACK FROM MY BUDDY BUTCH THAT DID THE PAINT!
More pics to come when I get it assembled and finished.




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Excellent Dave. Nice to take a vision and make it work and look good. I am just a daydreamer! need to do something like this BUT it would take a serious amount of time. Easier to purchase one from you! Think a GM guy will buy these?
Fred

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Thanx Fred!
I think this is just the first one and since I know what the process is, the next should take less time but I also want to not have to farm out all the fab and prep work and do it myself. It helps to have the internals of the meter working right and availability of parts if something is wrong. This one is good.
It's something I could do for people that have the materials already or I could hunt them down.
A flywheel that has a few broken teeth is scrap but it could be useable for this. A rotor that is too used and unsafe works great for this.
It can be done with GM, FoMoCo, Mopar or ANY manufacturers parts and I can re-design it to be vague or very specific for that persons wants and work that together with what is available for materials.


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Now THAT is pretty freakin sweet! nice meter!

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Thank you very much Will!


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It's crazy to realize it's been almost 2 yrs since posting but time flies!
I finally finished it today after working on it here and there the past few days. I was really sick of looking at it unfinished but I didn't realize it's been 2 yrs until I looked at this post tonight.
2 different sizes (thickness) of Custom cork gaskets cut and installed around all the glass pieces that I polished up and it's all working perfectly with each dime. I still need to install studs for the lug nutz to attach to but that's the last thing unless I try to install some type of light inside it. I doubt I will.
Last pic is with the green neon turned on that I just tossed up in the Shoppe.
Take care and drive/ride safe Oldgassers!









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WOW, that looks nice! Thanks for sharing a picture.
May our lives glorify God,
Michael

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Man, that looks freakin' great. Very creative base! And, excellent choice on paint colors, Grabber Blue is one of my favorites.


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