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#749583 Fri May 29 2020 08:32 AM
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RacerX Offline OP
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I'm fixing up a pump that will sit outside and actually be functional.
It will be in Michigan weather - heavy rains in spring, hot summers with direct sunlight and cold winters.
I was wondering if there was a consensus on which would be better to stand up to long term abuse:
Automotive paint (lacquer, enamel, basecoat-clearcoat) , or powder coating...

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RacerX #749590 Fri May 29 2020 09:19 AM
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Tom, There is a big difference between the two. Powder is definitely tougher and will last longer, however it has some downfalls. If you have pits or dents on the body and fill them, powder won’t work. The process of applying powder electrically and baking it on, will not work on filler. Therefore, you can’t use body filler. Which in turn, you will see every imperfection in the metal.

Single stage automotive enamel or two stage base/clear is what you want to use, if you fill and sand the body panels. After the paint has cured for a month, put some car wax on it. Your paint job will last a long time.

I powder my frames and use single or 2-stage paint on the panels.

You may also want to think about getting a steel globe body (Petro Nuts in Michigan sells them) and paint it at the same time.

Where about do you live in Michigan?

-Steve

Last edited by Speedracer; Fri May 29 2020 09:20 AM.

-Steve B. (WTB: 48" Flying A button, 48" black/org Phillips 66, White Star, and Chevrolet Signs. Also looking for a Wayne 866. Send a PM. Thanks.)
RacerX #749591 Fri May 29 2020 09:32 AM
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I have used a product in the past called metal to metal high temp filler on body work needed on my pumps before I powder coated them. It works great.


Kevin sexton
takitez #749606 Fri May 29 2020 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by takitez
I have used a product in the past called metal to metal high temp filler on body work needed on my pumps before I powder coated them. It works great.

Yep, I have LabMetal. I also do leading. But, this is a farm pump so I'm not too concerned about making it perfect. Just low maintenance...

takitez #749610 Fri May 29 2020 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by takitez
I have used a product in the past called metal to metal high temp filler on body work needed on my pumps before I powder coated them. It works great.

Good to know Kevin. Does it sand easy, like body filler?


-Steve B. (WTB: 48" Flying A button, 48" black/org Phillips 66, White Star, and Chevrolet Signs. Also looking for a Wayne 866. Send a PM. Thanks.)
RacerX #749611 Fri May 29 2020 01:09 PM
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I have had some wheels powder coated. And down where the center meets the band (deep crease) it's very hard to get the power to work
It won't "flow" like paint and if it's just tad..to thick it will pop like a zit... so often you are left With it not fill is. (Not enuff) or poping. Both leaving exposed metal to start rusting
Not a huge issue inside but not long term outside


1970 pro street cuda.
1970 cuda convertable
RacerX #749616 Fri May 29 2020 02:10 PM
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Yes it does.


Kevin sexton
RacerX #749621 Fri May 29 2020 03:46 PM
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I have powder coated the last few pumps that I have done. I can weigh in on a few things when it comes to that. I use a product made by Tiger Drylac called “epo strong” it’s a two part epoxy that can be applied, left to cure, and then sanded. It works similar to body filler but can be powder coated over. It will take the heat of the cure. I have used it to fill in imperfections in castings as well as corrosion damage.I find that powder coating works well when used with a out gas forgiving powder primer before the application of your powder top coat. You get a good intercoat adhesion with some added protection for outdoor service. With properly prepared body panels you can also have the entire coating process completed within the day and be assembling your pump in the evening.

RacerX #749705 Sat May 30 2020 09:08 PM
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JB weld will work for a filler under powder coat. We use it all the time. Warm it up, spread with bondo filler tool, let dry 30 hrs, block sand and fill again. Doing this with real thin coats. Works great as you can powder coat prime, block that and then get the final coat. I would do a liquid clear coat over it also because the powder coat fades.


Craig
RacerX #749810 Mon Jun 01 2020 11:15 PM
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I'm just now getting into doing my own powder coat. Did my first part yesterday. The clear powder coat helps keep color underneath from fading? I take it no one buffs the powder coat, is that a thing to do? Feel like why havent I been doing this for years?

Last edited by Paul Bell; Mon Jun 01 2020 11:16 PM.

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RacerX #749811 Mon Jun 01 2020 11:24 PM
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Yes, cut and buff the liquid clear on the top of the powder coat.


Craig

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