Primarily Petroliana Shop Talk Forums Shop Talk Petroliana Forums General Petroliana Discussion Tokheim 39 restoration help needed

I am about to reassemble my two Tokheim 39s (lo boy), which I have taken apart years ago... Unfortunately, both are different when it comes to the setup and design of the interior parts. My problem now is how to attach the weight (which moves the hose) to my 39 LRA.










I have attached some pictures - the first three show the side of the pump with what I think is the correct weight. The last pictures shows the two weights, I think the right one is the correct.
Now when I try to install them, somehow they don't fit - does anyone have the same pump and some pictures of its restoration which could help me. Does the weight attach to the top or the bottom part? This one is too short to be attached to both of them.
I also have an old manual, unfortunately it is not the exact type of Tokheim 39.
Thanks for your help!

[This message has been edited by SteveW (edited 02-28-2006).]

the one on the rite with the tubes is for the stamped steel base and the angle iron is for the cast alumn base. Take the top off the tube one and turn it arond looks backwards to me. The bottom goes in those two holes in the base. I had an oddball cast base version that was orrignaly a tall that was cut down, and was 1 inch taller than a reuglar short. the skins and frame was 1 inch taller. If the frames are not the same hight the taller one I would say goes with the cast base. Maybee you mixed up frames and bases? I still belive the top is backward on the tube one.
Brandon

Steve, unless you are attempting a "concourse" restoration, just leave the thing out. It's a heavy piece that only makes the pump even heavier. The restored pumps I have don't have these wwights in them. The nozzles have not been taken out of their receivers in years, so having the retractable cable and weight has little value or use.

I would have to agree with Gary. Don't lose sleep on this one. Unnecessary weight in a non-functional pump. JMTC Larry

Looks like maybe you have your base turned 180 degrees. If the holes in the base that the weight bolts to are on the same side has the nozzle you have it turned wrong. I can't tell for sure by the pictures. As for keeping the weight and making it functional-I kept mine and made it work. Kind of fun feeling that weight on there.

Keith

STEVE, I JUST TOOK ONE OUT OF THE 39 I'M CURRENTLY RESTORING. I AGREE WITH GARY ABOUT LEAVING IT OUT. I WILL BEING DOING JUST THAT....IT'S GOT TO BE ABOUT 15 POUNDS OFF THE WEIGHT OF THE PUMP. SINCE MOST RESTORED PUMPS ARE FOR LOOKS ONLY AND NOT FUNCTIONAL, I WOULD "DUMMY" A STRAP AROUND THE HOSE AND FEED THE WIRE THRU THE PORT AND FASTEN IT INSIDE SOMEWHERE OR JUST USE A SHORT HOSE AND NOT WORRY ABOUT IT LIKE I DID ON MY FIRST TOK39 RESTO.

~DOC

Thanks for your answers - I agree that the extra weight is quite unnecessary, but I just like to watch the mechanism work. Maybe after I have done a few more pumps, I will think differently about it.
Now I have found some more pictures - the tube weight (the right on the picture) is definitively for the pump on the picture. However, it is too short to be attached to the base and the top.

@keithia
The two holes on the base for the bolts of the weight are on the side that says "hose side" (you can see it on the 2nd picture).
I turned it to the same direction where the nozzle goes and the hose comes out. Is that wrong?

If anyone has some pictures of this type of 39 with the weight attached to top and/or base, I would be very happy to see them.

Thanks again!

If the base is stamped "hose side" then that is correct. The weight assembly does not attach or bolt to the top. It bolts to the interior framework of the pump or something that bolts to the frame. It only runs part way up the pump. It may have a separate bracket to attach to the frame. I wish I had my pump here and I would check for you but it is at my brothers.

After looking at your pictures again, it seems to me that it may bolt onto the hose outlet bracket.

Keith

[This message has been edited by keithia (edited 02-28-2006).]

I have a pump just like this I am painting the base on tommorow. I will post the pictures you need of how this part goes back in.

I ALWAYS leave them in, and hook back up the mec to make it work again. The only thing I toss out is the pump motor and pump works. I think it is nice to have the retracts working on all of the pumps.

I understand what you are going through right now, this is easy but tricky sometimes. I have done enough to know exactly how to put it back.

Like I said I will post the pics of this unit tommorow.

Travis E. Towle
Topeka, Kansas

785-357-1004

Ah heck with tommorow - had to go check on the jacuzzi anyway...

Here are the pics of the one I am finishing tommorow. Mine is a bit different. Hope this helps. PS - I never break the stands down as far as you did. Everything silver on mine stayed together!












Travis E. Towle
Topeka, Kansas

785-357-1004

It looks like you need the one on the LEFT! That should bolt right up just like mine.

Good luck.

Travis E. Towle
Topeka, Kansas

785-357-1004

Thanks Travis for the pictures! Nice silver paint. Maybe next time I will do it like you and won't take it apart totally. The pump on your pictures is pretty much like the other one I have - similar base, also the rectangular retracts and the same sight glass setup. I put the retracts in there yesterday, it fits without any problems.
Now I am still left with the tubular retracts (and the pump on the picture).
I wonder how many times Tokheim changed the interior setup - my 2 pumps are different, Travis pictures are similar in some parts to my other 39, but a few parts are still different (e.g. top steel panel).

I USUALLY PAINT MY FRAME & BASE POR-15 BLACK. BUT AFTER SEEING TRAVIS' IN SILVER I MIGHT DO MY CURRENT TOK39 IN POR-15 SILVER. BUT NO WAY AM I PUTTING THAT COUNTERWEIGHT BACK IN!

~DOC

Personally, I prefer to take my pumps down to bare metal. Chemical strip, then acid wash, blast if needed. I use a hammertone on the frame, yellow for electrical, red for the fuel systems, some details, such as the door mounting brackets and computer tray, are silver hammertone.



All the fasteners are replaced, skins are painted white on the inside, then reassembled. I prefer to keep the counter weight, so on this pump the roll-up spool was re-wound. The computer has not yet been addressed on this pump as the potential customer wants to keep his cost down.



I've got a fifty dolla bill, in this resto.

[This message has been edited by Thunder II (edited 03-01-2006).]

Almost every pump I come across has a silver frame to start with, except the MS-80's they are yellow. I have my frame sandblasted all together, and then prime, and paint with Rustolum Can Aluminummmmennemmenme "how ever that is spelled" spray paint. I do this on every electric I re-do. Looks good and last forever.

Every pump I find is different inside, even ones that are just 100 on the SN# are different using other parts... Same goes with the old Model T's = I think they just used what they had laying around.


Travis E. Towle
Topeka Kansas

785-357-1004

Thanks for all your replies. Finally, I left the weight out in the pump as you suggested. In the other pump, I have put it in. Depending on how I like it, I might take it out later...

See the attached pictures - this is my first gas pump restoration. Texaco Sky Chief - but actually I really like the silver metallic paint without the sign a little bit better.
Only problem is to adjust those doors - any tricks how to make them close tight? Or is it a general problem with all of these pumps?
I will post pictures of my other pump soon.

CHA-CHING! WOW...THAT LOOKS LIKE A BRAND NEW PUMP! GREAT JOB! ME LIKE ME LIKES! YOU DEF HAVE TO POST THAT IN SHOWCASE WHEN IT'S DONE! THANKS FOR THE PEEK!

~DOC

Great job Steve, the pump looks great. I usually set the doors before I install the meter assy. I open the opposite door and reach through the pump and tighten the hinge scews will someone else is holding the door closed. If the door is sitting too low you might try swaping some of your hinges around so they fit higher on you pump legs. I have bent some of the hinges up or down with some even presure but they do break so be careful. You can bend your hinge on your door up or down also but that could ruin your paint job. Hope this gives you some ideas. Good luck and did I say it before great looking pump. Richard

Ok I will try to break it down quick...

The top trim part above the door = that can be moved down so that it covers the top lip of the door about 1/8 of an inch, then to open the door you push DOWN on the door and swing it under the lip. That is the original set up in the design. This keeps the top of the door tight and takes up the gap.

As for the height of the door = that can be adjusted by using washers to stack on the hinges - but if you want to do it right, the hinges "pin area" where they attach to the frame - that hole should be tapped with threads on the top, just look they are probably there... You put a long hex bolt into the tapped area and screw it down from the top of the hinge that will cause the hinge to be lifted up off of the frame hook and will adjust the height of the doors. I hope you under stand this? I really do not want to have to go out in the cold and open mine to take a pic!

As for getting the doors tight against the sides = this is done using washers on the door side of the hinge, you have to either move the door out buy putting washers between the hinges and the door, or you have to "bend" then hinges to get proper set back... DO NOT USE HEAT when bending the hinges, always do a cold bend and just tap it a few times with a hammer with the hinge in a vice, that will move it enough...

Hope this helps - your pump LOOKS GREAT!!!

Travis E. Towle
Topeka, Kansas

785-357-1004

IF I WAS YOU - I would only mess with the TOP TRIM part...

That pumps looks GREAT, and for the most part those doors NEVER fit right. Since this is already done, just move the top trim down and leave the side gaps alone.

Do not risk a scratch in the paint job.


Travis E. Towle
Topeka, Kansas

785-357-1004

Great Job on that pump. You are inspiring me to try one myself. I Think you guys make it look too easy. LOL

Thanks for the tips!
Glad that you all like the pump. I will post some pictures in the showcase section when the other pump is done - that will be in a few weeks since I am on the road for the moment.

@TerryL - you should definitely try restoring a pump yourself - you will love it and probably won't stop doing it ever again - that's what has happened to me... I already have another pump waiting (and a lubester and an oil cabinet...). My next pump will be a Bowser 575, unfortunately one door is missing. Anyway, a nice project.