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 orange peel
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| Author | Topic: orange peel |
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bubba-73 Active Member Posts: 10 |
posted 02-24-2006 07:05 PM
  
i am having trouble with orange peel i am using a sharpe hvlp gun. cant figure out what i am doing wrong. setting the air pressure at the at 10lbs. need help. thanks IP: Logged |
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squick Active Member Posts: 136 |
posted 02-24-2006 07:37 PM
I had the same problem when shootings some clear. I discovered that I needed a higher pressure. Crank it up some any try a test on something. Hope this helps. IP: Logged |
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bondospreader Member Posts: 7 |
posted 02-24-2006 07:59 PM
Hvlp is not really the ticket anymore. Newer paints need more air and a gun that busts the paint up into smaller droplets, which means less orangepeel. Also sometimes a little more thinner helps. Good Luck Bondospreader ------------------ IP: Logged |
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besgar Active Member Posts: 464 |
posted 02-24-2006 08:29 PM
I spray at 40psi with a sharp hvlp. with a 1.4 tip, any less and it wont lay down nice. I also use a little more reducer in my clear and use slow reducer so it has a chance to flow. have to wait at least 30 min in a 80 deg invroment between coats. Hope this helps. Brandon IP: Logged |
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dsmith Active Member Posts: 66 |
posted 02-24-2006 09:00 PM
if you are going by the gauge at the tank it will be less at end of air hose. My gun recommends 12 and I shoot at least 25 or I get orange peel. IP: Logged |
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allsho80 Active Member Posts: 112 |
posted 02-24-2006 11:04 PM
I use a devilbiss millennium with a 1.6 tip. I shoot at 20 lbs of air and single stage I mix 7 oz of paint to 1.5 oz of reducer and 1 oz hardner and it lays down great. Almost looks like base and clear. First coat really light let flash, second coat medium let flash and a third coat medium. Hope this helps. IP: Logged |
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Ryan Underthun Moderator Posts: 516 |
posted 02-24-2006 11:11 PM
If you look at the P-sheet on the clear it will say for hvlp, like 10psi at the tip. That is hard to measure without a tool you can screw onto the end of your gun. What I find best is to spray clear at around 40-50psi at the inlet of the gun. This is not the same pressure the tip sees. This will vary on how the fluid adjustment is set up also. Check the sheet for fulid tip recommendations also, some clears "like" a 1.3 tip some a 1.5. Higher quality clears will lay flatter also. Give me a shout if you need further help. Ryan Underthun [This message has been edited by Ryan Underthun (edited 02-24-2006).] IP: Logged |
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sslick68 Active Member Posts: 615 |
posted 02-25-2006 03:02 AM
I spray my clear at much higher air pressure than most 45 to 60.I continually keep the gun moving fast unlike most.I use a digital sata gun ad get remarkable results.I use cheaper guns for my single stage paints though.In all I have five guns that all each have their own spray purpose,primer,sealer,single satge paint,enamel paint,clear. Cheap Hvlp guns suck in my opinion,they always orangepeel.Different paints definately spray different,find one you like and stick with it,this will help you find YOUR pattern. ------------------ IP: Logged |
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T-way Active Member Posts: 1958 |
posted 02-27-2006 10:08 AM
Bubba-73 I'm not a professional painter working on a day-to-day basis at a body shop (some of the guys on here are) - but I am a professional custom painter working part time. The following are my recommendations based on my experiences. I have to dissagree with Eric - HVLP is the way to go. Especially with the new paints. You want to maximize your investment in paint and get the majority of it on the item you're painting. And all the new paints are specifically designed to be shot with an HVLP gun. As for you orange-peel problem. I think Ryan is on the right track. I have a small air pressure guage/adjustment unit mounted at the inlet of all my guns. I set the pressure at the wall about 10 psi higher than the spec sheet calls for (you ARE getting the spec sheets for ALL you paints, aren't you?). Then dial it in with the gun mounted adjustment. Also make sure you're using the correct tip (as others have mentioned). Tip size will be spec'ed out on the paint sheet also. My Millenium 2000 DeVilbis and my Devilbis SRI both like about 20 - 25 psi at the tip. And the only way you're gonna know what you got at the tip is with a gun-mounted guage. Remember, the longer the hose, the more pressure drop you will have at the gun. Remember to read your paint spec sheet and mix up your paint exactly as the ratio states. Then, if you have problems, try adding a bit more reducer and see if that helps. I have both the anodized measuring sticks and the plastic throw-away measuring cups. Either works well - but the cups already have the various mixing ratios printed on the sides. You just find the one you need and pour. Make sure you are getting a nice 'wet' even coat. You should not be able to see any 'pebbling' between your strokes. Each should flow into the previous and smooth out. If you can't see this in your normal painting position, bend down so you are looking 'across' the pattern as you spray. Also make sure you are using the correct 'speed' of reducer for the temperature you're shooting at. Orange peel is usually a variable of: not enough/too much gun pressure, not enough/too much reducer, or not enough/too much paint application. A trick that I like to use: When I'm done squirting the paint, I drain the unused paint off, pour in some of the correct reducer and put a medium coat of reducer on everything. You have to be carefull as the reducer is very 'wet', unlike the paint - but it will help with the flow-out of the paint and give you a nice smooth finish. This trick works especially well for color breaks/graphics. Quickly unmask the graphic or color break as soon as the paint flashes off and shoot a coat of reducer along the paint break. This will allow the top color edge to soften (not run) and lay down. This will give you a much smoother edge to deal with when you clear or rub out. Later . . . Jim
[This message has been edited by T-way (edited 02-27-2006).] IP: Logged |
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