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 Tokheim 39 restoration help needed (Page 1)
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| Author | Topic: Tokheim 39 restoration help needed |
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SteveW Active Member Posts: 23 |
posted 02-28-2006 12:14 PM
  
I am about to reassemble my two Tokheim 39s (lo boy), which I have taken apart years ago... Unfortunately, both are different when it comes to the setup and design of the interior parts. My problem now is how to attach the weight (which moves the hose) to my 39 LRA.
[This message has been edited by SteveW (edited 02-28-2006).] IP: Logged |
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besgar Active Member Posts: 464 |
posted 02-28-2006 12:32 PM
the one on the rite with the tubes is for the stamped steel base and the angle iron is for the cast alumn base. Take the top off the tube one and turn it arond looks backwards to me. The bottom goes in those two holes in the base. I had an oddball cast base version that was orrignaly a tall that was cut down, and was 1 inch taller than a reuglar short. the skins and frame was 1 inch taller. If the frames are not the same hight the taller one I would say goes with the cast base. Maybee you mixed up frames and bases? I still belive the top is backward on the tube one. Brandon IP: Logged |
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Gary Drye Active Member Posts: 1208 |
posted 02-28-2006 12:42 PM
Steve, unless you are attempting a "concourse" restoration, just leave the thing out. It's a heavy piece that only makes the pump even heavier. The restored pumps I have don't have these wwights in them. The nozzles have not been taken out of their receivers in years, so having the retractable cable and weight has little value or use. IP: Logged |
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st.rod Active Member Posts: 1356 |
posted 02-28-2006 02:41 PM
I would have to agree with Gary. Don't lose sleep on this one. Unnecessary weight in a non-functional pump. JMTC Larry IP: Logged |
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keithia Active Member Posts: 474 |
posted 02-28-2006 04:21 PM
Looks like maybe you have your base turned 180 degrees. If the holes in the base that the weight bolts to are on the same side has the nozzle you have it turned wrong. I can't tell for sure by the pictures. As for keeping the weight and making it functional-I kept mine and made it work. Kind of fun feeling that weight on there. Keith IP: Logged |
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THE AMERICAN GARAGE Active Member Posts: 5342 |
posted 02-28-2006 04:29 PM
STEVE, I JUST TOOK ONE OUT OF THE 39 I'M CURRENTLY RESTORING. I AGREE WITH GARY ABOUT LEAVING IT OUT. I WILL BEING DOING JUST THAT....IT'S GOT TO BE ABOUT 15 POUNDS OFF THE WEIGHT OF THE PUMP. SINCE MOST RESTORED PUMPS ARE FOR LOOKS ONLY AND NOT FUNCTIONAL, I WOULD "DUMMY" A STRAP AROUND THE HOSE AND FEED THE WIRE THRU THE PORT AND FASTEN IT INSIDE SOMEWHERE OR JUST USE A SHORT HOSE AND NOT WORRY ABOUT IT LIKE I DID ON MY FIRST TOK39 RESTO. ~DOC IP: Logged |
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SteveW Active Member Posts: 23 |
posted 02-28-2006 05:30 PM
Thanks for your answers - I agree that the extra weight is quite unnecessary, but I just like to watch the mechanism work. Maybe after I have done a few more pumps, I will think differently about it. Now I have found some more pictures - the tube weight (the right on the picture) is definitively for the pump on the picture. However, it is too short to be attached to the base and the top. @keithia If anyone has some pictures of this type of 39 with the weight attached to top and/or base, I would be very happy to see them. Thanks again! IP: Logged |
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keithia Active Member Posts: 474 |
posted 02-28-2006 07:14 PM
If the base is stamped "hose side" then that is correct. The weight assembly does not attach or bolt to the top. It bolts to the interior framework of the pump or something that bolts to the frame. It only runs part way up the pump. It may have a separate bracket to attach to the frame. I wish I had my pump here and I would check for you but it is at my brothers. After looking at your pictures again, it seems to me that it may bolt onto the hose outlet bracket. Keith [This message has been edited by keithia (edited 02-28-2006).] IP: Logged |
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travis_towle Active Member Posts: 1136 |
posted 02-28-2006 10:41 PM
I have a pump just like this I am painting the base on tommorow. I will post the pictures you need of how this part goes back in. I ALWAYS leave them in, and hook back up the mec to make it work again. The only thing I toss out is the pump motor and pump works. I think it is nice to have the retracts working on all of the pumps. I understand what you are going through right now, this is easy but tricky sometimes. I have done enough to know exactly how to put it back. Like I said I will post the pics of this unit tommorow. Travis E. Towle 785-357-1004 IP: Logged |
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travis_towle Active Member Posts: 1136 |
posted 02-28-2006 10:51 PM
Ah heck with tommorow - had to go check on the jacuzzi anyway... Here are the pics of the one I am finishing tommorow. Mine is a bit different. Hope this helps. PS - I never break the stands down as far as you did. Everything silver on mine stayed together!
785-357-1004 IP: Logged |
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travis_towle Active Member Posts: 1136 |
posted 02-28-2006 10:53 PM
It looks like you need the one on the LEFT! That should bolt right up just like mine. Good luck. Travis E. Towle 785-357-1004 IP: Logged |
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SteveW Active Member Posts: 23 |
posted 03-01-2006 05:40 AM
Thanks Travis for the pictures! Nice silver paint. Maybe next time I will do it like you and won't take it apart totally. The pump on your pictures is pretty much like the other one I have - similar base, also the rectangular retracts and the same sight glass setup. I put the retracts in there yesterday, it fits without any problems. Now I am still left with the tubular retracts (and the pump on the picture). I wonder how many times Tokheim changed the interior setup - my 2 pumps are different, Travis pictures are similar in some parts to my other 39, but a few parts are still different (e.g. top steel panel). IP: Logged |
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THE AMERICAN GARAGE Active Member Posts: 5342 |
posted 03-01-2006 05:59 AM
I USUALLY PAINT MY FRAME & BASE POR-15 BLACK. BUT AFTER SEEING TRAVIS' IN SILVER I MIGHT DO MY CURRENT TOK39 IN POR-15 SILVER. BUT NO WAY AM I PUTTING THAT COUNTERWEIGHT BACK IN! ~DOC IP: Logged |
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Thunder II Active Member Posts: 1675 |
posted 03-01-2006 09:23 AM
Personally, I prefer to take my pumps down to bare metal. Chemical strip, then acid wash, blast if needed. I use a hammertone on the frame, yellow for electrical, red for the fuel systems, some details, such as the door mounting brackets and computer tray, are silver hammertone. All the fasteners are replaced, skins are painted white on the inside, then reassembled. I prefer to keep the counter weight, so on this pump the roll-up spool was re-wound. The computer has not yet been addressed on this pump as the potential customer wants to keep his cost down. I've got a fifty dolla bill, in this resto. [This message has been edited by Thunder II (edited 03-01-2006).] IP: Logged |
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travis_towle Active Member Posts: 1136 |
posted 03-01-2006 08:12 PM
Almost every pump I come across has a silver frame to start with, except the MS-80's they are yellow. I have my frame sandblasted all together, and then prime, and paint with Rustolum Can Aluminummmmennemmenme "how ever that is spelled" spray paint. I do this on every electric I re-do. Looks good and last forever. Every pump I find is different inside, even ones that are just 100 on the SN# are different using other parts... Same goes with the old Model T's = I think they just used what they had laying around.
785-357-1004 IP: Logged |
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