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 ROTM - OCT 2005 - Bowser 410 (Page 1)
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pollyman Active Member Posts: 657 |
posted 10-25-2005 05:00 PM
  
Have I got a treat for you guys. Richard (gatorgaspumps) has been working on a project restoring a Bowser 410 clockface for the past 7 months and took pictures the whole way thru. This was a tough restoration because it required many parts to be fabricated along the way. My hat off to you Richard for a job well done. Thanks!!!! ENJOY. ~Jason IP: Logged |
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pollyman Active Member Posts: 657 |
posted 10-25-2005 05:01 PM
Bowser 410 square clock-face Xacto Sentry IP: Logged |
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pollyman Active Member Posts: 657 |
posted 10-25-2005 05:03 PM
After disassembly of the pump frame I started restoration on the pump head.   The outlet pipe from the pump to the sight glass was broken and the threads are still in the pump. The easiest way to get the threads out is to cut them with a hack saw then use a punch to drive them out. I set up a gig and bent a new 1” X 22” galvanized pipe to fit. This pipe has to be in place before reassembly back in the pump frame. Price of pipe $8.00 total cost $28.00. IP: Logged |
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pollyman Active Member Posts: 657 |
posted 10-25-2005 05:04 PM
 All the frame legs where bent, with the right equipment it didn’t take long to straighten them. Cost, (thanks to a neighbor) nothing. Total cost so far $28.00. IP: Logged |
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pollyman Active Member Posts: 657 |
posted 10-25-2005 05:08 PM
  The light assembly is just a single light (it lights up the faceplates and the globe.) The light switch is just a quarter turn style. Restoration included new wire and sanding all parts. To sand I use a Fiber Disc from Vermont American, most True Value and Home Depot stores have them. These Discs will scratch the metal so I just use them on the frame and other metal parts that don’t show. Any place that I could not reach with the disc was sandblasted. All the parts for restoration I had on hand, so the total cost is still $28.00. IP: Logged |
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pollyman Active Member Posts: 657 |
posted 10-25-2005 05:09 PM
 The frame, pump head, support brackets, and bolts were sanded and then painted with a rattle can of X-O Rust, red paint. The original color was more of a rust red than bright red. Cost for paint and sanding disk $14.00. Total cost so far $42.00. IP: Logged |
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pollyman Active Member Posts: 657 |
posted 10-25-2005 05:11 PM
   The first picture shows the broken base. The second picture shows the base after it was brazed. I am still missing a corner piece so I made a new one out of steel. Picture three is the finished corner that was missing after it was brazed and I put on body putty. Strength of the corner I will not test, no bolt will go there to anchor the pump down. Cost of the brazing rod $2.00 all other items I had in stock, total cost so far $44.00. IP: Logged |
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pollyman Active Member Posts: 657 |
posted 10-25-2005 05:13 PM
  The base, center, and top have been sanded and all bodywork is done. They are now ready for painting. I have made two templates for the two body skins that I will have to make. This way I do not have to take the original pieces to the metal workshop. Total cost still $44.00. IP: Logged |
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pollyman Active Member Posts: 657 |
posted 10-25-2005 05:15 PM
  Cleaned up the clock mechanism, repainted the bell. The rest of the shaft was bent, tried to straighten it with heat but it broke. I made a new one out of 3/8 inch brass stock. The hands on the left are original, I made the hands on the right out of tin. The spacer on the red hand is ¾ inch cold stock, drilled and tapped, then attached with JB weld. The hands turned out a little bigger than original but should not be noticeable when installed. Cost for the brass stock $1, total cost $45.00. IP: Logged |
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pollyman Active Member Posts: 657 |
posted 10-25-2005 05:16 PM
   I have borrowed skins from a friend to make new ones. First step was to make a copy of the skins out of butcher paper. The pattern was then laid out on a piece of steel and cut. Next it went to the machine shop with the wood templates that showed the correct bends. I did not cut out the window size until after the steel was cut and bent because I was afraid I it would not bend correctly. The original skins are in the 2nd picture; the new ones are in the 3rd picture. Cost of skins $150.00, Total cost $195.00. IP: Logged |
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pollyman Active Member Posts: 657 |
posted 10-25-2005 05:18 PM
  Next the latches were installed on the new skins. I used the butcher paper to locate the approximate location of the screw holes. I then taped the wood template to the inside of the skins next to where the holes needed to be drilled. Then I taped the skins together with duck tape so they fit tight against the template. I positioned the brass studs and latches so they look right then drilled the holes for one side. The new skins were then installed on the pump to make sure they fit, and the final side was drilled on the pump. Latches and studs are from Ron Scobie $35.00, total cost $230.00. IP: Logged |
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pollyman Active Member Posts: 657 |
posted 10-25-2005 05:21 PM
   I could not find a Nozzle Receiver so I had to make a new one. The 1st picture shows the pattern for the steel. The pieces were then brazed together and ground to fit. The 2nd picture is the original. The 3rd picture is the new nozzle. Cost was $4.00 in materials, Total cost $234.00. IP: Logged |
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pollyman Active Member Posts: 657 |
posted 10-25-2005 05:23 PM
     I could not find a Nozzle Hanger so I had to make one from a picture I got off EBAY (1st picture above). The second picture is the pattern I made. The 3rd picture is the completed piece, not exact but close, without the real one handy it was hard to get the exact measurements. I received another picture from Dwaine Buck, and the fourth picture shows the two additional pieces I made. The fifth picture shows the final piece. I had all the materials, so no actual cost. IP: Logged |
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pollyman Active Member Posts: 657 |
posted 10-25-2005 05:24 PM
 The window Bezel on the right is an original that I borrowed. I bought two cast repos on EBAY for $95.00, center image. They had to be sanded, holes drilled, and pit holes filled. The image on the left is the pattern for the glass. The cast parts are smaller than the original and vary in size so a pattern for the glass had to be made. The cutout for the thickness of the glass on the repos is also not as wide so I will be using 1/8 inch glass and putting silicone next to the screws to cushion the area around the glass. If I put the glass in the normal U rubber there would be a gap between the skins and the window bezel. Cost for the glass was $5.00. Total overall cost now $334.00. IP: Logged |
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pollyman Active Member Posts: 657 |
posted 10-25-2005 05:26 PM
  Next step is to make the inner horseshoe face spacers. I cut a piece of tin 36” X 1 1/8”. I then clamped it to a straight edge and bent a 1/8” lip along the full length. Next I cut the lip in two places and bent it into the horseshoe shape so it will slide into the window hole on the skins with the lip out. The window bezel with glass will keep the spacer in place. I had all the material to make this, no cost. Total cost $.334.00. IP: Logged |
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