I can't find much info on the Fry 77. I traveled to west TX over the weekend thinking that I was buying a Fry 117, but it was a beat up Model 77.
Will it be difficult to straighten out the bent pieces of the base? Some bends are severe enough that rivets have popped out.
What is the technique for removing the large square nuts that hole the base to the skins? I tried heat from torch and penetrating oil, but the nuts starting stripping. Is there a wrench that will fit over a large square nut?
The bolt on nozzle holder on the back side long door has some sort of button/plunger system that when you hang up the wet hose nozzle, it pushed a long metal rod on the inside of the pump. The pump has a Fry glass cylinder in it, but has Wayne gallon markers, 2 BB dings, and crack from top to bottom. The single conduit was fashioned in someone's shop. The T inside the flower pot only has two horizontal threaded holes, not four, but the flower pot has 4 holes. The pumps move freely, but I believe the end of the shaft was altered to fit the bubba-built handle. I am not sure if the repro handle with fit now.

Did I purchase a parts pump? I am not a professional restorer, I just like to refurbish so everything works.










[img]http://i63.tinypic.com/jr90mw.jpg[/img]
The last two photos show the dented base; second shot looking down on bent steel.
Your thoughts on this pump would be appreciated. I am not sure that I want to sink a lot of money into it.
Joe

Sounds like you had an adventure !
Take those square headed bolts off using heat/cold and PB Blast. IF you damage one...don't sweat it, it isn't a blue cylinder.
HA ! I thought that that nozzle holder actually did something other than hold the nozzle. Please post some photos of the linkage to illustrate what it actually does. I have an idea, but won't appear ignorant and state it here and later be incorrect. lol Thanks.
Those Wayne gallon markers are standard due to Wayne acquiring GLM.
Dave

heat bolts red hot to the core then qunich with with cold water most times you take out with with your fingers . charley

I don't have a cutting torch, but have a bottle of MAP gas. Will that get the square nuts hot enough? I already twisted on of them off this morning.

Dave, the 4th picture from the top shows what the unidentified linkage looks like when the front long door is open. The front side long door looks just like the door on my Fry 5 gallon except the cut out at the bottom is a notch instead of an oval hole. There is nothing on this pump that the linkage would activate when the nozzle was hung up and the small button pushed inward on the pin that then activates the long rod linkage. I would guess that it could have been used on an air driven pump and when the nozzle was hung up, it stopped the flow of air, but his pump has no hardware indicating that it ever ran on air.

Any ideas on why the T inside the flower pot only has two holes, but the 77 should have light arms? Is it possible that Wayne finished out the pump and chose not to install light arms on this particular pump? I guess anything is possible.
Joe

I have found several 117s with light arm holes in the conduit cup and no "T" holes. I think that they just assembled them with the parts that they had available.
The 77 was suppose to be hand crank ? This will require more inquiry.
Dave

That is the same assembly method we find on old Corvettes. If they ran out of a certain bolt from a vendor, rather than wait until the vendors bolts showed up, they went to the local hardware store and purchased what they needed. Wayne probably used what they had on hand the day this pump was made and they only had a double T. I doubt if the T has been replaced on this pump, but can't prove that. The pump has been located at the same farm house since at least 1933. Here is a photo of the pump handle that I am the proud owner of.

I am not sure what the end of the pump shaft looked like before it was twisted off or squared off or both.
I searched the forum archives and found almost nothing about the Fry 77. Jack Sim sells a 2 page brochure that I am going to purchase to see what details it provides. If anyone knows someone who has an original Fry 77, please let me know.
Joe

That pump shaft is probably just the standard double D with the threaded hole which is the same as the one on your 17. I may have one somewhere. It is a steel shaft with brass blades.Dave

The pump shaft I have to work with is a 1" square nub that worked with the bubba-made handle and they bolted a piece of flat steel up against the handle to keep it on the shaft nub; mildly ingenious way to keep the handle in place. I could certainly use a good pump shaft if you have one I could purchase.
Joe

Come on Dave inlighten us on the nozzle rest shaft puzzle.
Does it have more then the one postive stop then the one your showing.Reason I ask that is the main difference between 77 and 117. Hand crank with no postive stops correct?
You know Jacks book states 1920, if no one can account for this pump till 1933 by the time it made it to the farm it could be as you both have said, parts is parts.

I need some more photos of the holder from the outside and some more photos of the inside to try to solve this puzzle. Someone on OG was talking about this setup a while back. I do not have access to the pump. lol Any guesses about this device from you veterans ?
Does placement of the3 nozzle in the holder the holder cause the verticle linkage to rotate ? Dave

When you insert the nozzle into the holder, it pushes the exterior small button, which then pushed horizontally on a thin piece of u-shaped sheet metal that is attached to the thin long rod with threaded stud on the end. The first photo is the linkage at rest (with no nozzle in the holder) and the second photo is the linkage position when a nozzle is in the holder, The unthreaded length of the round linkage is 3.75". When it extends, it extends straight up towards the front, hinged long door.


As you can see from an earlier photo, the round linkage is located between the fuel supply pipe and the sliding brass pipe and there is nothing for it to attached to.

I agree that by 1933, there could have been many alterations to the pump. A farmer probably purchased it from a gas station that was changing out pumps or purchased it from the gasoline company directly. It has two square "signs" riveted to each side, about the size and location of the "Contains Lead" signs, but there is no porcelain remaining and the two pieces of metal are paper thin. Not actual rivets, but the same type and size fasteners used on the brass ID plates.
Joe

Loyd, I forgot to answer your question. It has one positive stop (see photo 3 at the top of this post) at the 10 gallon position and the gallon selector handle is "frozen" in the 10 gallon position. There is no evidence that there were ever any additional positive stop "fingers" attached to the conduit. I am certain that the single positive stop was installed at the factory because it had the tiny braided wire running through a square set screw and the single hex head bolt that holds the positive stop to the conduit pipe. The braided wire is held together by a crimped, round lead "button." Not sure what the official name of the lead button is. The positive stops on my Fry 17 are fastened to the conduit pipe with two hex bolts and the square head set screw and the security wire goes through all 3.
Joe

Another interesting observation. The flower pot has 4 holes, but the 2 holes where the light arms would have gone into the flowerpot are not 90 degrees to the conduit holes like the 117. They are 45 degrees to the conduit holes. The gallon markers sticks are at a 45 degree angle to the conduits which matches the light arm orientation.
Joe

Looks like my last 2 photos above are chopped off; not sure why.
Joe

Not a parts pump at all. Very typical shape for a fry. The conduit is not like they were original at all, or even close to what I make. Of the 40 sum Frys I have done none had conduit like that, or a cut into the top or belt line! The light arms were attached directly to the globe cup using nuts. The pump handle is wrong - so I'm guessing with the Wayne indicators, conduit being wrong, Handle being home made - this was most likely put together by a gas pump provider for farms using parts he had on hand, I've met some of these guys and that is what they did.

My model 77 also had the wet hose system like yours, with the cast iron nozzle holder on the back. My guess is the rod had a steel stop on it and would push the rod into the handle when the front door was shut to lock the pump handle in place for the night. I don't recall how to get the photos on this site anymore so I'll find a way to get them to you - I'm missing the little rod on mine but it's most likely in my parts box.


Travis
Topeka, Kansas

I should add that almost every visible and electric pump I have in my collection and that have passed through my hands had a way to lock the pump nozzle at night, my bowser c110 and Ottawa allow the nozzle to be locked inside the pump at night, my fry speed boys have them lock in a return tube at the base at night. The only thing this could have been in my opinion is a Handle lock mech - shut the front door, it locked the nozzle in place.


Travis
Topeka, Kansas

I have to see this. Send the photos to me and I will post them Travis.
jdjones1954@yahoo.com
Thanks,
Dave

Thanks for the info Travis. I am sure that when the home made conduit was added to the pump, originals or repros were not available. Hard to understand why they would go to the trouble to drill a hole through the bonnet and "carve" a notch out of the cylinder base plate instead of extending the conduit out past the base plate and bonnet. There is a "carved" notch on the opposite side of the base plate as well.
Joe Maulsby

Photos courtesy of Travis Towle. Dave

Photos courtesy of Travis Towle. Dave

I'm pretty sure the correct nozzle for this cast iron holder just popped up on eBay.

262285262610

Of course measurements would be needed to confirm. If you look at the nozzle on eBay and the cast holder the "hole" for the rod is correct and the area around the hole on the nozzle expands just like the cast iron holder.


Travis
Topeka, Kansas

I have an original cast iron "t" with threaded holes for the light arms, but they are 90 degrees with the conduit. Dave

Dave, that T would be correct for the 117. I have now seen photos of several model 77s and the gallon markers and light arms are always 45 degrees to the conduit pipes. The light arms must have attached to the flower pot with jam nuts, one outside and one inside. Some model 77s had exterior Fry gallon markers, others had internal Wayne gallon markers.
Joe

I've got a 117 with the light arm holes at 45 degrees also. They mixed up all types of parts when assembling these pumps. As thin as some of those cups were, I believe that attaching the light arms to them would not have been a good move in the long term. I do believe that they did it though. Dave

My Fry 77 is almost completely disassembled; except from the base plate up and I am not going to remove the glass cylinder since it is cracked, but still holding together for now. I am surprised that the flower pot is not rotted out at the base, but it is not. The next step is to get everything ready for primer. I would like to use a flat or chalky finish red paint. I assume the paint vendors now call flat finish a chalky finish.I need to purchase several parts from Scobie, but he is not selling parts until at last March 1st.




The pump shaft is square as opposed to the double D shaft on my Fry 17 handle shown on the left.

Joe Maulsby

I purchased 2 pages of literature on the Fry Model 77 and there are several interesting items noted.
1) It only had one measuring stop at the 10 gallon mark
2) The glass cylinder had the gallon markers etched
3) The hail screen was two pieces so that the etched gallon
markers would show.
4) The drawing shows a "self closing nozzle" and a gate valve
5) There is nothing in the literature about a cast iron nozzle holder
6) The nozzle shown at the end of the 1" hose is a Morrison Bro. Fig. 189. The nozzle is hanging on the bottom of a conduit pipe, but there is no visible hook. Maybe there is a flange or some type of hook on the back side. The Morrison Fig. R-189A had a flange that allowed the nozzle to be locked to the pump.

There is a Fig. 189 for sale on ebay now, but no locking flange. I am not sure what the locking flange on the R-189A looks like. Does anyone know what the locking flange looks like?
Joe

I agree with Dave Jones that the way a pump was portrayed on the sales brochure drawing was not always how the pump was delivered; maybe the drawing depicts one option.

My main question is, has anyone seen a Fry 10 gallon cylinder with the gallon markers etched?
Joe