Ok before I try. Is there any tips or tricks?
Bought a new 12 inch round vinal decal for my visible gas pump. Wich you know is taped skin
I only get one shot. And don't want any wrinkles. Is it going to be a problem since the skins are tapered?...thinking about it. I can't see how can put on and NOT have a wrinkle
Advise please....

I've had success using this method: position it on your pump where you want it and use blue painters tape on the side at either 9:00 or 3:00 to act like a hinge. Fold the decal back over the tape and start to peel the backing/ Then bring it back toward the pump, peeling the backing as you stick the decal onto the pump.

There's a lot of ways to do this without wrinkles.

Take windex and a plastic putty knife or those plastic applicator they spread bondo on a dent and spray pump install decal start on one side and wrap around while taking putty knife rubbing out lines or creases. The windex will dry and keeps decal from sticking prematurely.

All our decal orders come with an instruction sheet.

A link to the same instructions can be found on the decal page of our website.

Click on the link below to be taken to our site.

Later . . .

Jim

In the modeling hobby, there are solutions made specifically for decals to conform to irregular surfaces. I have never used it, but that’s what it is made for.

I think It’s a two part solution. One solution helps adhere and conform to irregular surfaces and the other helps it stick. It also gets rid of the decal ‘sheen’ and makes it look more like paint.

Again, I personally have never used it and don’t know how well it would work on a large decal, and you would probably use almost a whole bottle or two on a pump decal. I also have never used a pump decal. But I just wanted to inform you of this product, if you were interested.

-Steve

I havent used the solutions mention above by Steve, but I do know they work very well for irregular surfaces, it's on my "must try someday" list. If you watch the youtube videos on it its pretty impressive stuff.

Putting the decal on shouldnt be a problem if its curved in just one direction, curve in both directions makes it much harder, not sure if the taper you mentioned is a compounding curve. I've done slightly concave areas and its not easy, I had to work it a long time. I commonly hear use windex, but the windex disolves the adhesive, a very mildly soap-water solution (like just a few percent soap) is better from what I hear.

I would use a lot of solution and work it middle to out with a squeegee. Dont get the decal liner wet by accident, I've done that before, it sucks.

You can also use a little liquid soap (teaspoon to a quart will do) mixed in water and then applied with a spray bottle. If you make the surface you are applying the decal to wet enough the decal will slide around until you have it positioned exactly where you want it. Once you start to squeegee the water out from under the decal the decal will now be set and not move on you. Allow a day for a full dry set and you are good.

Beware, I believe the solutions shown above are for water transfer decals ONLY - not printed vinyl decals.

Yes. I have done both. And knew the water/liquid would not work for what I was doing. But it's on and no bubbles or wrinkels

Jim, not to be argumentative, but I have had great success with all my printed vinyl decals with the water/soap solutions. I highly recommend it. It saves a lot of aggravation. NO bubbles or wrinkles while achieving perfect placement on the part. The trick is to use plenty of water and not to push on it to hard until you have perfect placement. Once you start to squeegee, the adhesive will hold the decal in place. Squeegee from the center out. All I know is it works for me. And yes, this process works well for water transfer also.

Randy,

I was not clear.

I was referring to the Microscale products.

I believe those are designed for use with water transfer decals used for scale models.

Sorry for any confusion.

Later . . .

Jim