Primarily Petroliana Shop Talk Forums Shop Talk Petroliana Forums General Petroliana Discussion Clear Coating Porcelain??

Hey Guys,
I just acquired a small beater sign with dulled out porcelain. I've heard of "clear coating" to bring out the color & gloss but have never used it. Can anybody advise on what's the best product and how to apply??

Thanks.

Paul

Hi Paul,
I'd recommend first to clean and polish the sign as best you can first. Try a good auto wax. If you feel the need for more gloss, you can spray an automotive enamel clear coat over the sign.
These clears are not cheap and usually contain extremely hazardous components. Be certain to use a resperator when spraying them.
Painting porcelain is like painting a pane of glass as far as adhesion success goes. Clean off any wax with a solvent made for wax removal. I would prepare the sign using a grey Scotchbrite pad and a blend prep paste recommended by your auto paint vendor. Clean all residue of the prep paste meticulously. Then spray the clear using the recommended hardener and reducer. PPG's Omni products are good performance for a reduced price.
Keep in mind that if you plan to resell the sign, many serious sign collectors take a dim view of clearcoating porcelain signs they are considering to buy. If it's a beater you plan to keep, don't worry about it. Do what you want.

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Jim "Oldgas" Potts
Your host and moderator

Hi Jim,
Thanks for the info. Not sure if I want to go through all that trouble. I may just put some wax on it.

I wouldn't normally purchase a sign in this condition but this sign is extremely rare. As you mentioned, most collectors don't want a clear coated sign. However, I plan to keep the sign and just want bring out the most color possible.

Paul

Did you make Pollyman a deal on that Wilshire sign or what?

I think that ut might already be haning over his fireplace though.

Paul, you can wet(with soapy water or paint thinner) the sign and get an idea how much clear will help. Clear won't do a whole lot to brighten weak/faded colors, but it will help if the finish is etched pretty bad.

I bought a Phillips 66 porcelain shield sign off ebay a couple years back, it looked real good in the pic. When I received it you could see circles on the face from the bubble wrap, the sign had some kind of mildly sticky coating sprayed on it. I scrubbed off a little patch with soap and water and and underneath it the black was very faded, so I left it alone. Not much help, I know, but I guess I'm saying there could be another option?
This reminded me of like PAM cooking spray or light oil or something. Fooled me.

HERE I GO AGAIN PROMOTING THAT "HOWARD FEED AND WAX" PRODUCT!

IT'S A CITRUS BASE MADE FOR FURNITURE. I USED SOME ON A COKE BUTTON THAT WAS FADED BY ACID RAIN. IT BROUGHT THE SHINE BACK BY AT LEAST 75%. I ALSO USED IT ON MY FLYING A SIGN ON THE AREA THAT HAD BEEN COVERED BY DIRT FOR SEVERAL YEARS AND LOST IT'S SHEEN.

DON'T GET ME WRONG, IN MY EARLY YEARS OF COLLECTING COKE, I CLEAR COATED SEVERAL BUTTON SIGNS WITH A SPRAY ON TYPE PRODUCT. THEY LOOKED SUPER.....ACID RAIN MARKS ...GONE!!!

USER DISCRETION IS ADVISED!



[This message has been edited by THE AMERICAN GARAGE (edited 03-04-2005).]

Just to add my two cents worth, Jim has it right except for the waxing part. If you plan to clear coat don't wax it first to see if that works, unless you make sure the wax has no silicone in it. If you use a silicone wax then the clear coat won't lay down right and you will need to go buy a special poly breaker that neutalizes the silicone. Wax and grease remover will not get the silicone off the sign. You don't want to make a worse problem for your self. With that said, I have found that a lot of faded signs have already had the silicone wax job done to them by the seller. Therefore I use a poly breaker as part of my prep when clear coating a sign

Craig,
Thanks for the info. This sign came with a coat of wax which I removed with rubbing compound. So, I guess I have to assume it may still have silicone on it.
Who sells the "poly breakers" you referenced? Is it cheap and easy to use?

This is only a 10" sign. I may just wax it again. However, if it's cleaned well enough, I could bring it by a body shop to spray a clear coat. Since I have no experience with these paints, it's not something I want to tackle myself.

Paul

Flyingaman Craig is right. 100% of the wax residue must be gone for paint to stick and lay out smooth. Avoid silicone wax or Armorall type products if there is any chance you may paint that item later. Choose a wax without silicone. If someone has already tried to polish or wax the sign, you have to assume that silicone products may have been used. You then need to use the special silicone removal product that Craig mentioned, available from auto paint vendors.

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Jim "Oldgas" Potts
Your host and moderator

The poly breaker that I buy comes in a 1 gallon jug and is fairly cheap. It is mixed with water and I gallon will last a long long time. If you plan to just do the one sign and have it cleared at a body shop, they will most likely already have the poly breaker there and supply it for you if you ask. Good luck
Craig