Primarily Petroliana Shop Talk Forums Non-Petro Discussions Non-petro Discussion and Showcase Parking meters

I picked up a couple more parking meters for the collection.

Here are some from my collection.

I have seen some really nice meters from the oldgas members and I have a question. What do you guys do for the locks? My new meters came with locks that were a little too long so they ground down some of the case to make them work. Well I am trying to figure a cheap lock to install so I can get some of my meters put back together. Thanks,
Mike

Mike, don't have a parking meter so can't help with your question but maybe some day. Looks like you have a nice collection of meters.Is that a fine box on the one meter ? Jack

I have a Few Parking Meters, Here they are.

A couple on the outside of my Garage on each side of the Door.



And a Few inside the Garage.

Jack, your right it is a fine box. TRAF-O-TERIA is the make. All aluminum. I have one by Duncan but it is awaiting paint. It is all steel but somebody managed to beat the stuffing out of it.
Love those Ford meters. Thanks for posting.
Mike

I have been looking for a couple of those Fine Boxes for a long time. I bid on a few of them on ebay awhile back but somebody at alot deeper pockets than me. Isn't the one made by Duncan called a Fine-O-Box with a picture of a Cops head cast right into it? You have a Great Collection of Meters.


Jason @ Esse's Garage.

I'm no expert but my Duncan does say Fine-O-Box on a tag.
The ones I have seen with the cops head say CURB COP on them. And Yes, if you don't have deep pockets you won't get one of those on ebay.
Mike

Great garage, Jason!!! Fantastic look, very interesting parking meters and all signs hanged on the walls. You seem a Mustang enthusiast, isn't it?

Enrico

Thanks Enrico, yes they are both Mustangs.
Check out this link for Pictures of my Garage.
http://www.oldgas.com/shoptalk/ubb/Forum4/HTML/002139.html


Jason @ Esse's Garage.

OK, I know this is an old post but I know some of you got new meters and I haven't got to see them yet. Had to pull these guys out of the cobwebs and put together for a fellow oldgasser. No locking mechanism for the coin vault door. Can't remember if I ever had it or lost it.
Mike

This arrived today.

Very nice Jack. I like the art deco style of the Miller 50. Yours is a little older since it says Miller Meter. Mine is when Duncan took over and it became Duncan Miller and then they just said Duncan Meter.
Mike

This guy sits out front by the sidewalk. It came from San Francisco and is a HEAVY monster. Bought it for .99 cents but the shipping made up for the good deal.
Mike

Here's one I did a couple of years ago.

It sits on a weighted base with a polished Stainless Steel post.



Later . . .

Jim

[This message has been edited by T-way (edited 12-13-2008).]

Hey mike - You should be able to get the "high security" locks from your local locksmith shop, they are the locks with the cylinder shape key. I always replace with a cheap cabinet lock from the local box store. You should be able to get different lengths to fit your needs.

Kurt

Looks like I gotta' start bidding on parking meters on Fee-bay....

Awesome colors on your meter T-way.
Thanks to fellow oldgasser, Ralph White, I've got a present under the tree.
Mike

Here is a couple more for ya Mike...







Kurt

A couple more as lamps...







Sorry for the sideway pics...I had them saved after I edited them, but, they seem to post in the previous uncroped and rotated form.

Kurt

Those are awesome Kurt. Got another one in the mail today but Michelle is making me wait till Christmas. How many more days is it?
Mike

Hey guys, just saw your post this morning and loved all the pics. Here is the only parking meter that I have. This is a salesman sample with the original carrying case.

Sorry for the pic, here it is smaller.

Jamison - Man that is one SLICK example!!!!

Who was the manufacturer? Looks like it has a Rhodes style crank on it...

Kurt

I would guess that is a Mark Time Meter and it is super nice. I see those salesman samples on ebay for the different meters and always bring the big money. Mark Time and Rhodes have similarities so it would be my guess they might have merged or one took over the other.
Just my guess.
Mike

If memory serves me correct it is a Mark Time, but I will check and post the update. I have had this one a while, I saw it at a friends house and had to have it because I like salesman samples!

OK, I need help. Here are two more meters.
Mike

Mike - Are you charging for parking at your house? If you are, there's not much spending power in those pennies your taking in...even though I guess you could make your parking fines more substantial.(LOL).

Kurt

I do have a meter on the fence post out in front by the curb. It gives 6 minutes for nickles, 12 minutes for dimes & 30 minutes for Quarters. I get more spiders nesting in it than parking fees. Someday I thought about getting the gag parking fine slips and placing on cars out front. If I did that the city would be the first at my door to fine me. LOL
Mike

What a neat thread!

Now I want one of those Duncan Miller parking meters. Whats for sale guys.

Larry

Michelle was so proud of me. I got the meters in a perfect row. They sure make noise when they are all ticking away the time. Three of the meters are sitting on seat posts I found at a yard sale. They are aluminum and I believe they might have come from a bass boat? The person having the yard sale did not have a clue and I am only guessing. They work perfectly for display. Seat posts are 3,4 and 7 from the left. We'll see how long they can stay in the house.
Mike

Michelle and I were driving to my Mom's and saw an Estate Sale sign. Most of the time it turns out to be just another yard sale. First thing I noticed was all the military items and it gave me a funny feeling. Then Michelle said, "Look over here". I went and saw two traffic signals and then right beside them was the Parking Meters! It clicked as to why I had the funny feeling. I asked the couple running the show to whom the Estate belong to. As the woman started to say I finished the name for her. It was my buddy. He passed away over 3 years ago and I lost all contact with his son. His stuff has been in storage all this time. I could not afford the traffic signals but I spent all my money on the meters.
Mike

Am I the only one with parking meter problems? Of coarse not, I just don't have enough. Here's another. This one is from Laguna Beach, Ca.
Mike

wow mike,you really like them meters! bet your friend is smiling that you got those other ones!!

I guess I'm now a member of the Parking meter club. Many thanks to my Oldgas Brother Bruzer for sending this to me. It showed up today.

Lucky for me, I had a bunch of stuff out in the scrap metal recycle piles. I cut a piece of galvanized pipe to length, used the top piece of a scuba tank for a base, then held it all together with a piece of all thread.

Up untill now, my Daughter thought I was crazy. Now she's convinced. Thaks again Mike!!!!

I wonder what she'll say when I bring home a fire hydrant? Or, what about a Mailbox?

I like it I like it alot.
It's the least I could do. Me and the meters were getting lonely.
Spread the insanity!!!
Mike

My first attempt at sand blasting a parking meter.
Mike

Two more for the collection. Found locally so I did not have to spend $$$ on shipping. Still took everything but a dollar from my wallet. Super nice guy I got them from. He's into old bikes and was cleaning up a Schwinn Tandem and Trike. Both looked awesome
Mike

Picked this up from craigslist. It was one from my hometown of Grants Pass. The lady got it years ago when the city auctioned all the meters. Took everything that Michelle had in her wallet. That will teach her to give me more of an allowance. Ha Ha
Mike

lol y dont you buy mine i got enough to keep you busy for 2 years lol

OK so here's the story. Michelle and I went down to Tracy, Ca. to pick up a compressor. Stayed the night at Travis AFB. I figured with a little time on my hands I would check out the craigslist. Well I saw an ad for a parking meter in San Fran. emailed and the seller would not be home until around 6:00 pm. Talked Michelle into heading over for the afternoon. Had a nice meal down at Fisherman's Wharf. Drove over the Golden Gate Bridge and back over and met up with the seller and here it is. This one was a gift from her parents and is the nicest one I have as far as the condition is perfect and has an original key. Michelle says this will be my last one. I think she said that 6 meters ago too.
Mike

Gang, I have an old Miller Meter and have a couple of questions, paint looks to be the old "krinkle" black finish, anyone know if that type of paint is still available? Second "dumb" question a full sized stand, what type of base would let you move it but keep it from falling down and breaking into pieces? I don't know where I want to put it yet. Thanks for the help! Take care! tt

Oldgoaly, There is a "Krinkle" Powder Coat I am pretty sure, Find your local powder coater he should be able to help you out.

A few ideas for a stand are the round discs from a farm plow. Weld a section of 2" pipe to mount the meter. The patio umbrella stands work well too. Just slide in a 2" pipe or I use the 2" PVC Conduit. I use conduit a lot because it looks good, does not rust, easy to cut and the meters fit perfect on it.

2" threaded pipe and a flange works well but will still tip over if bumped hard. Unless you ad a little more base to it. Then rock solid. Here is a stand I put together for my friend Bob.
Mike

Mike
I like the wooden base, if I was to have it in the house that would be a neat way to go. I guess I will have to start lobbying now, they have been moving my radios and auto stuff out.... Thanks for the ideas! tt

Oldgoaly, take a look at my post here. I got a piece of all thread rod, ran it through a pipe, that was put on top of an old scuba tank, then tightened it up. Not that you would happen to have an old scuba tank around, but just to get ya' thinking....

no scuba tanks but many old refer (refrigerant), still have methyl-chloride and sulfur dioxide refrigerants. my 1934 GE fridge (monitor type?) compressor on top, you just never know when you might need it. tt

Hey oldgoaly just send that dirty old meter my way. I'll make sure it has lot's of friends to play with.
Mike

How come you didn't tell me? You could have shacked up in one of my bedrooms at home. Plus, you could have checked out my collection and I would have taken you for a ride in the Airflow.

Sounds like fun. Next time I'm in the area I'll give you a call.
Mike

I have a meter that sits out by the sidewalk. Picture of it on page 2 of this thread. The batteries ran down on the electric timer so I needed to do some maintenance. Well I switched out the timer to the manual turn and decided to empty the coin cup. To my surprise, over $50 in coins. I wish I could say that it all came from people walking by and trying it out but I put some of my extra change in it because I like watching the red dial switch to green. This is a newer style meter and the coin cup is larger than the old ones. It was mostly Quarters and they add up in a hurry. Not bad from just pocket change I thought.
Mike

I have a parking meter question. I have a digital timer. I've had it in storage for years and put fresh batteries in it. It says OFF and I cannot get it to turn on. Don't remember if I ever had it on and that might be why it was in storage. There is a little black reset button and then an area that has pins in it. Pushing the reset button makes it run through some numbers and then returns to OFF. I am sure it must be easy to turn on if I only knew how. Thanks,
Mike

What happens if you need 6 "horas"??

NOW I REMEMBER. It was on when I woke up so I put money in it. 5 minutes per Quarter. This timer turns off during the unpaid part of the day. I don't have the stuff to reprogram it so it turns on early, early in the morning and then will turn off later. I'll keep my eye on it during the day. I'll write down the times on it so next time I won't have to rely on my memory. My other digital timers work anytime you put money in.
Need 6 horas? I would hate to see what a parking fine would be.
Mike

Here's mine.
Bruzer thanks for the suggestions and you got a great collection.

One more of my digital timers. 100 hrs of parking for $150 (600 quarters).

I like that model 60.
Mike

OK! OK! You guys have got my interest up! Where do I go to buy a couple for in front of my shop?? Ebay?? Old Gas??

Kevin, I've picked mine up from ebay, Oldgas and my very good friend Mike (and he's not just my friend because we traded items), LOL. There usually is a pretty fair selection on ebay. Freight, as you can imagine is the bug-a-boo with these things.

Kevin, like Bob said, ebay is a very good source and I check craigslist often. I picked up two Model 50 Duncans at an antique store (someone made them into lamps). There are some nice ones at the antique store in town but they are way out of my price range. My first meter came from a local yard sale and that started my madness. Also like Bob said shipping can make a good deal turn sour, Park-O-meters are about the lightest at 12 lbs and not too bad. Duncans and Millers are heavy at 20 to 29 lbs. 32 lbs for one of my double meters. Good luck, I'll answer any questions I can.
Mike

A few years ago, I ran into a guy selling a s***load of parking meters. He bought them at an auction from the City of San Francisco and was reselling them to different towns/cities in Mexico. While he was doing that, he was also selling them at swap meets. I picked up a few from him, including one double for $25. All were mechanical timers and in good operable shape.

Michelle just had to have one more. Came in the mail today. Very nice Duncan Miller Model 50 that was made into a lamp that I don't need. Came with an original key so I FORGIVE HER. Pulled all the lamp stuff off and he's made lots of friends already. He makes #11 in the house.
Mike

After years of sitting in a box this guy is together. This is my first non-working meter. Bought him with 2 others that were just shells. So I blasted all the dirt and paint off and with extra parts laying around he now looks like a parking meter again. Michelle actually said he looks good that color. So I'll keep him bare metal. Makes #13 in the house but she is doing the spring cleaning and once she gets to the family room I fear the meters will be out on the street again.

Anybody else get a meter lately?
Mike

picked up my first meter last weekend a double rhodes, needs some work, anyone know where i can find glass and meter face's.

Does yours look like this?
If I ever take this one apart I'll give my local glass guy the chance to cut new glass for it. Other than that my best guess would be ebay.
Mike

hey thx for the reply, yes that's the one, i paid 30$ for it. do you know about what year it is, its in good shape but the glass has yellowed. thx.

I don't have a clue what years these came out but my older Park-O-Meters had glass instead of the Plexiglas windows that will yellow. There must have been a time when they switched from glass to Plexiglas.
I have been polishing up the windows on my Duncan 60's with a car headlight restoration kit. Takes some of the scratches and yellow off and leaves them very nice looking. Any auto parts store carries the kits from cheaper to expensive. Better yet, I'll give you $30 and pay for the shipping and take that meter off your hands. It will save you years of headaches when all you do is think about parking meters and then you come home to this!
Mike

CAREFUL Mike or she'll place it outside the Throne Room !
Just far away that you can't feed it, when necessary.

She might even add one to the shop door, to get in.

theres gotta be a reall funny joke here,but i cant think of it
!!LOL

very funny,

After years of waiting I got this meter tore down today. It is the worst shape meter I have so far. Got it years ago from a guy down the street. Another meter from my hometown of Grants Pass, Or. Poor thing must have been left outside on the ground because it was full of dirt, moss, dead bugs and spider webs. The little clock part of the timers are shot so if I have enough spare timers I hope to get it cleaned up and working again. The lenses are almost impossible to see through. I'll see if my headlamp restore kit can bring them back to life. I am so glad my other Duncan Double from Grants Pass is not in this bad of shape.
Mike

Hey Quincy,
Saw this ebay auction for your Rhodes glass.

Item # 220573523877

Sorry but this has ended but contact the seller. I see they have other stuff too.
Mike

Here are the two lenses after an hours work with the headlight restore kit. Not perfect but much better. I am very slow so there was only about 20 minutes of real work involved.
Mike

After looking around and asking question to buy "a" parking meter for the new shop this is where I am now, and have one more coming. May not be up to Mikes collection by who knows where it will end lol.
Randall

You've got a dandy collection there. You have a couple that I would like to own some day.
Here is my latest line-up picture. 16 in a row. The two Duncan Doubles on each end are from my hometown of Grants Pass.
Mike

Wow, I started this post almost 2 years ago. Michelle is so happy I found another meter so here it is. Got this from the Spokane, Wa area. Got another timer too. Still need one more timer for my Duncan Double.
Mike

I was surprised by Michelle's liking of the POM I blasted down to bare metal. Maybe she has given up and just letting me do whatever I want? We'll see. Well I was not finished with it. Thanks to my Buddy Bob RICHARDS I remembered I had an extra piece for it. It is a counter, and long ago some of the meters had these. They actually counted the amount of money that should be in the meter. If a nickle was put in, the counter went up 5 and so on. My Buddy KOHOUT had a Michaels Bronze Art Meter that had a counter but I have never seen one on a Duncan or Miller. Park-O-Meters are the most common that I have seen. So far it is the older style that has the cut-out for them and the internals have to have different pieces to work.
Mike

A guy came over to look at my phone booth and I ended up with another parking meter. It is a DUAL brand and I didn't have one of those yet. He had a cute dog with him so that must have distracted Michelle enough for me to get the meter.
Mike

If you traded the booth for that parking meter, you got the better end of the deal.

I was in desperate need of a "Parking meter fix" so my good buddy Bob RICHARDS hooked me up with 3 more meters. I should be good for at least a week or so. Michelle likes the Rockwell meter on the right so I don't mind sharing. Thanks Bob,
Mike

You guys crack me up. Watch out for Bob Richards, Mike. he has a way of getting us into trouble...

Hope it's ok that I resurrect this thread...I'm a noob on here.

I picked up a 2 coin Duncan Miller today at an auction for $10 and I was very pleased. But now I realize I have no idea where to start. Anyone got any tips for disassembly/restoration? Thx.

Jim

Another NOOB here!

I've got a few meters.
1 Duncan Miller
1 Park O Meter
1 Rockwell

all are locked and I have no keys.
I understand I can get new locks....what about getting the old ones out? Drill them out? Pick them?

Hints?

I'll try to figure out how to post pics.

Thanks!

I like parking meters. The Duncan Miller meter locks are perfect for opening without drilling. I have a chisel that fits perfect in the lock. With a hammer I give it some love taps and turn the chisel with a wrench. Eventually with the proper amount of love it turns open. Lock is no longer able to lock but with some JB Weld I can piece it together and make it look good and open with a screwdriver. Those round security locks are a pain and I have no other way than drilling. I don't like to so I have a couple that are waiting. The top (M/W shaped) locks to the POM's are usually all keyed alike. Email me and I'll see what I can do.
Mike

My Rockwell and Park-o-meter are now open and ready to be cleaned up.
As you can see from the above photos, the POM needs new plexi, but the Rockwell is in very good condition inside and out!

The Rockwell works like a clock, but the POM has some rust inside and the small watch like mechanism on the back is rusty, plus the coins will not insert, although the mechanism will turn using the master knob? (Not sure what this is called...but the knob the meter maid can stick the tool into to reset the meter.)

Next, on to the locks of the Duncan Miller. Might try a locksmith before I drill them out.

mine before



and after

Picked up 3 today

I came across this thread and was wondering if anyone knew a parking meter collector by the name of John Anderson out of Austrailia. I've heard he has the largest parking meter collection and was wanting to see some pics of all the different kinds he has.

Two from the streets of Medford, Oregon

Cool Hand Luke went to a work camp for taking a pipe cutter to the poles holding up meter heads...... Just something to think about...... LOL

Now it is true, that Michelle will have more room in the house, once you are on the "chain-gang"...... But, I imagine she will start to miss you after a couple of months......That is if you keep taking pipe cutters to meter heads............. LOL

May have to add a bit at a time, anyway hope this helps.
Machine Cleaning PARK-O-METER MECHANISMS
Main spring barrel cleaning Never place this part in solvent. Clean with stiff bristle brush, and
add 3 to 5 drops of mainspring oil to the coils. (Flexing
of coils is advisable to spread oil: Clamp barrel
flat on table and use wind crank to run up and reverse
coils a few turns, repeating several times.)
TIMER. This unit can usually be returned to the
meter as is. When needed, the timer can be serviced
economically through the company exchange plan. If
desired, the timer may be removed from its case, and
a very small quantity of timer oil applied to each of
the 6 pivots (both sides).
CAUTION. Protect cleaned mechanisms from dust
while stored. Check gaskets and dust out meter case,
before installing cleaned mechanism.
Most customers use timers for as long as they operate
properly, which will be for several years. Timers may
then be returned for factory rebuilding, which includes
cleaning, lubrication, adjustment, plus all necessary
parts.
For those who would like to clean their timers, the
following suggestions are made: Remove the timer
unit from its protecting case. Do not take the unit
apart.
Process in the cleaning machine at a time when you
have fresh cleaner and rinse in the tanks.
Use the fine mesh divided basket. Lay timer unit with
threaded bushing down and hairspring to outer edge
of basket. Do not lay one on top of another. Eight
to ten units may be processed at one time.
Run in cleaner IM minutes, at moderate to fast speed.
Reverse the basket at each count of 10. Rinse and
dry the same as for mechanisms, using slow speed
on drying.
LUBRICATION: Use timer oil. Oil sparingly: 6
pivots on both front and back plates, including balance
wheel cups; 2 points where pallet fork contacts
the escape wheel; verge pin on balance wheel. BE
C A R E F U L NOT TO GET OIL O N HAIRSPRING
COILS. This will cause coils to stick together, and
speed up timing. SUGGESTION: When oiling balance
wheel cups, wipe instrument oiler needle with
tissue to remove surface oil that might contact hairspring.
Jeweler's stick oiler may be used.
Clean plastic and stainless case using cloth moistened
with rinse solution.
If timer does not operate satisfactorily after this treatment,
it indicates need for adjustment or parts replacement.
G E N E R A L L U B R I C A T I O N I N F O R M A T I O N:
Types of oil for instrument use are constantly being
improved in the laboratories of oil and chemical
companies. These oils are continuously being tested
to determine those best adapted to your Park-OMeters.
The oils supplied under the following three
types will always be the best available for the application:
1. Mechanism (Mech) Oil
2. Timer Oil
3. Mainspring (MS) Oil
Use oil sparingly: An instrument oiler is recommended
for proper application.

DO NOT OIL the following locations:
1. Idler arm gear and stLid
2. Idler arm shaft
,3. Portion of rotator shaft supporting
cam assembly
4. Spider pawl
.5. Index pawl bearings
6. Signal latch bearings
7. Coin trip lever
8. Case locks

C. INSTALLING MAINSPRING BARREL
OIL: See instructions Page 2.
1. Insert barrel per Fig. 3.
2. Seat floating arbor in front
plate hole, using pointed tool.
O I L : A p p l y M E C H o i l to
ratchet on arbor gear.
3. Insert main arbor gear by
springing up slightly on back
plate.
CHANGING MAINSPRING BARRELC. INSTALLING MAINSPRING BARREL
OIL: See instructions Page 2.
1. Insert barrel per Fig. 3.
2. Seat floating arbor in front
plate hole, using pointed tool.
O I L : A p p l y M E C H o i l to
ratchet on arbor gear.
3. Insert main arbor gear by
springing up slightly on back
plate.
4. Tighten loose pillar nuts.
5. Install mainspring holding
bushing, wind square, and
retainer.
OIL: Apply drop M E C H oil to
bearing end of bushing.

CHANGING MAINSPRING BARREL: (on assembled mechani.sm). R UN
DOWN F U L L Y by releasing rotator. Remove holding bushing, and
loosen bottom pillar nuts. Pry plate up slightly to slide barrel out

INSTALLING
MECHANISM
PARTS ON FRONT OF
1. Install coin trip lever.
CHECK: Part should lay
parallel to plate.
2. Install flicker and hairpin clip.
If clip touches plate, bend
tips up.
3. Install star wheel,
CHECK: Spin wheel for
even resistance.
4. Place coin plate (if any difficulty,
note if anti-pick dogs
are clearing gear teeth).
CHECK: Before fastening
coin plate, check reset lever for free movement.
Lever should center in
space between plates. —
Coin trip lever should
be level with centerpiece.
OIL: Drop M E C H oil '
in rotator shaft bearing
and in front mainspring
bearing.
M O D E L "11" O N L Y :
Place dime lever and retainer.
C H E C K : Rotator should
FIG. 5
turn freely when moved with finger.

INSTALLING LEAF CAM
1. Hold like a reversed "question mark." Insert between
indicator gear and spider assembly with slot
engaging groove in bushing. Part should drop freely
into position when released. Hold reset lever in advanced
position, and use tweezers to hook tail of part
over pin on cam assembly.
CHECK. With time indicator at extreme right posi
tion, advance spider assembly with finger and release
Spider spring should freely return part.

INSTALLING OR CHANGING TIMER
1. Position indicator near center of dial.
2. Insert timer connector in proper take-off gear. Position
timer, and jiggle to seat. Rotate onto studs.
3. CHANGING TIMER WITH MAINSPRING WOUND:
See Fig 8. Hold indicator firmly with fingers while rotating
timer off studs. Either replace timer immediately or let
indicator down gently to rest position.
CAUTION. Do not operate reset lever with timer removed
and mainspring wound. If timer is not replaced immediately,
let indicator down to rest position. Move indicator
back to mid-dial position before replacing timer.
4. TIMER MOUNTING: If timer does not seat snug, use
wind crank over studs, bending each one slightly toward
center. If plastic cover is loose, rub screwdriver blade along
edges of stainless steel cup, to roll in.

ASSEMBLE SIGNAL CLUSTER1. Rub working edge and sides of leaf cam across
crocus cloth to smooth. Dry lubricate edge by marking
with soft lead pencil. Groove in bushing in which
leaf cam shdes may be cleaned with string.
2. Hold idler arm in right hand. Place indicator gear.
CHECK: Snap indicator back and forth. If idler
gear chatters replace gear, or stud. Move indicator
.4UTION: Apply no oil to this assembly.
slowly checking free meshing of gear teeth.
C H E C K : Spider pawl for free movement. If face of
pawl is grooved, file flat, or replace.
3. Place spider assembly with spider pawl fitting in
cutout section of gear teeth.
4. Place signal on shaft. CHECK: Forked lever
should not easily pass over turned-up end of signal.

INSTALLING SIGNAL CLUSTER
1. Hold cluster between thumb and fingers
with parts in following relation: signal, time indicator,
and leg holding spider pawl, all in vertical position.
Idler arm at 4 o'clock relative to gear.

Insert idler arm
between signal actuation lever
(on cam assembly) and 2-hour
take-off gear. As part drops over
2-hour gear shaft, move index
finger down to guide forked
lever onto stud. Next, use index
finger to hold signal counter
weight (Model " G " only) clear
of stud. With downward motion,
and pressing slightly to rear, fit
end of shaft into rear pivot
screw. Partially tighten rear
pivot screw, leaving space for inserting
spring over front end of
shaft.'
3. With tweezers place spider
return spring over end of shaft.
Tighten both pivot screws. Hook
short end of spring in opening.
Hook long end of spring on
spoke of spider next to adjusting
screw. (Use #7 crochet
hook for convenient hooking of
spring.)
4. Install graduated dial, with
edge clearing indicator.

INSTALLING SPRINGS
1. COIN TRIP L E V E R SPRING; Insert hook through
bottom hole in lever and swing to right. Hook bottom
loop over stud.
2. SIGNAL RETURN SPRING: (Applies to Model
" H " only up to January, 1956.) Hook one end in groove
in spacer post, and other end under bushing to notch
in signal shank. (After January, 1956 a redesigned
signal latch is provided, so one spring serves both
latch and signal.)
NOTE: The Model " H " signal may be used as replacement
on Model " G " meters by using signal return
spring. Hook to spacer post, or to new type signal
latch if available.
3. INDEX PAWL SPRING: Hook turned over coil
on signal bracket, and other end on right leg of index
pawl.
4. IDLER A R M SPRING: (Assuming this spring was
hooked onto stud per Fig. 1, Item 1.) Using #7 crochet
hook, pull spring out and hook it into edge of hole
in idler arm, inserting from right side. Work through
hole with tweezers.
5. RESET L E V E R RETURN SPRING: Place loop
end over stud on cam assembly. Hook other end on
squeeze lever, using tweezers.
6. (Model " H " Only) AUXILIARY RESET L E VE
SPRING: Insert the hook into end of coils of indicate
spring, and loop other end over same stud used f(
indicator return spring.
7. INDICATOR RETURN SPRING: Hook one en
through tumed-up ear on indicator gear. Bring ov(
top of bushing and hook onto stud.
8. SPIDER PAWL SPRING: Insert long end in bra;
hole and hook short end in spider pawl, with " U " ben
engaging top rivet groove. Press firmly with indf
finger on surface where long end protrudes, sharp]
bending spring up and around edge of part. Swin
end across head of rivet, and lock in lower rivi
groove. Check for free movement.
OIL MECHANISM: Before placing timer, apply
drop of M E C H oil to each rotating shaft bearing i
the two brass plates. Apply from side most easil
reached. (NEVER OIL FOLLOWING LOCATION:
Indicator pivot cups or any parts on the indicator an
signal assembly. Bearings for index pawl and sign;
latch.)

ADJUSTING ASSEMBLED MECHANISM
1. Fully wind mainspring,
2. SIGNAL. With indicator advanced, release signal
latch with finger. If signal does not "snap" up, check
for possible bind between fork and actuation lever.
Move signal slowly with finger, and if it does not latch
smoothly, bend adjust angle of mating parts.
Return indicator slowly, and if signal does not release
at instant the "expired" mark is reached, adjust dial.
3. PENNY CHECK: Let rotator turn slowly with
penny, by holding star wheel. If latch end of signal
does not move slightly above latching position, the
following adjustment may be made: (If arm is not
loose on bushing) advance reset lever about half
way and hold loosely. Trip signal. Insert screwdriver
horizontally from right, between 2-hour take-off shaft
and lower edge of signal actuation arm. Rotate screwdriver
to pry up lever slightly. Do this a little at a
time, checking when signal is barely latched on slow
penny operation.
4. NICKEL CHECK: Let rotator turn slowly with
nickel, until index pawl bites deepest into index ring
teeth. If pawl does not contact bottom of tooth, bend
index pawl pin up slightly. Let rotator turn until index
pawl is fully backed away from teeth. If penny tooth
is not barely cleared, bend index pawl pin down
slightly (reverse of above). Make this adjustment by
bending stamping close to pin, using long nose pliers
or special alignment tool. Insert from left side of
mechanism.
5. Hold reset lever in fully advanced position. Return
indicator to expired position, and let it advance slowly
with finger observing if there are any catchy spots.
If binding, check visually for mbbing contact (evident
by markings where contact occurs).
6. Check spider pawl for free movement. Check coin
trip lever, that it is riding close to the face of rotator.
7. Finally, operate with all coin sizes. Each coin
should give slightly more time than its value — never
less time.
8. To set indexing ring for cumulative 10P-2N-2
HOUR (nickel per hour rate): First set ring to give
between 12 and 13 minutes on a penny. Return indicator
to zero, and insert a nickel for first hour, and
second nickel for second hour. The first nickel should
set for slightly more than 60 minutes, and the second
nickel never less than 2 hours. If short a few minutes
on the second nickel, shift the dial to the left making
it read correctly with the time indicator. — Repeat
above adjustment of index ring.