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#168084 Sun Jan 03 2010 02:59 PM
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Pyle Offline OP
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I am trying my hand at this pump restroration thing and have a bunch of questions, so bear with me please.

First;
I have an M&S model 80 cyclops with a short base, series no. 4 BR (the 4 looks double punched in both spots), serial: 42684. Originally painted white on top, blue on bottom (Standard Oil I believe)
What year is this from?

Second; I see door rubbers available from all the vendors but mine is riveted on.
How do you install new rubbers?

Thanks, I'm sure more to follow

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Pyle #168088 Sun Jan 03 2010 03:02 PM
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I think you can use short sheet medal screws to help attach it.


Wanted Owens Motor Oil & Mobiloil Gargoyle.
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gasoildude #168092 Sun Jan 03 2010 03:07 PM
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Pyle Offline OP
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Grind off the rivets and use sheet metal screws?

Pyle #168095 Sun Jan 03 2010 03:08 PM
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PICTURES FOR US TELL A THOUSAND WORDS! wink

WELCOME PYLE! smile


DOC @ THE AMERICAN GARAGE
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Welcome Pyle, from a fellow newbie. My first pump was also a shortbased cyclops 80, in Standard Oil. One of my first questions was also what year is my pump. You can search my name and read what others told me.....the 4B will, or should, make it a 1947. After picking up that pump I picked up a very rusty tall base 80 cyclops to get the tall base and a few other parts. It too was a S.O. of 47 year.
I believe that I've seen the door rubber advertised with large headed rivets, but not sure of the vendor. I'm pretty sure it was one of the vendors that advertise here.
So I've got to ask, which Veeder-Root computer does yours have in it? PICS PICS PICS

Pyle #168112 Sun Jan 03 2010 03:49 PM
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Do you know how to use pop rivits?Just a thought.

t00lmanii #168113 Sun Jan 03 2010 03:51 PM
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Pyle...I have restored tons of these MS80's and have never used the door rubber on any. Just my opinion but I think it looks much better without. In place of the rubber, use small felt bumpers on the door back. Protects the paint when you have the doors locked. Good luck, Paul

t00lmanii #168115 Sun Jan 03 2010 03:52 PM
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According to the Blue Book, nothing (they skipped 1949), actually your pump was not made before 1948, and it was not made in 1950 or after. So, it was made in 1949.

I have a copy of the 4-BR Parts List available, although the list shows the tall base, email me if interested.

Jack Sim


Author, 1st & 2nd editions of Gas Pump ID book, 3rd edition is now available at www.gaspumpbible.com
Air Meter ID book also available
Jack Sim #168119 Sun Jan 03 2010 04:04 PM
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Pyle Offline OP
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Great response, thanks a lot, I'm practicing that pop rivet thingy just as soon as I get my stimulus money.
I am working on some pics

Pyle #168122 Sun Jan 03 2010 04:08 PM
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Figured it out, victory over evil forces

Pump.JPG Rivet.JPG Veeder Root.JPG
Pyle #168125 Sun Jan 03 2010 04:12 PM
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Just Drill out the Old Pop Rivets and one of the Pump Part Distributers sell the Rubber kits with the wide flange rivets that you need for the Job. I think it is Gas Pump Heaven that sell the rubber with the Rivets.


***Wanted*** Always looking for Oilzum, Kunz, and Husky Cans, Signs and Smalls.
Esse's Garage #168127 Sun Jan 03 2010 04:22 PM
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Pyle Offline OP
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You guys have been great, I have found out more stuff in 30 minutes than searching the web for a week.
thanks again all

Pyle #168132 Sun Jan 03 2010 04:59 PM
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See what pictures will do for you. I've done a couple (?) of them and found that if I just tore all the old rubber out the factory rivits loosened up enough that I could break them off with vicegrips on both sides without damaging the doors.Worked for me;may not on your pump.CAREFULLY!!

Old Iron #168156 Sun Jan 03 2010 06:17 PM
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I can freshen up that computer if you need it.



Veeder Root Rebuilds.....since 1987
Veeder Root Identification CD
Gas Pump Clock Repair
jkyocom@bellsouth.net
jkyocom #168452 Tue Jan 05 2010 06:38 AM
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Pyle Offline OP
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jkyocom, you are on my list of things to do.
thanks


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