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#34937 Mon Jan 28 2002 07:40 PM
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Jarvis Offline OP
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Here are some old posts from 1999. Has anyone come up with any better ways of a cyl. removal? I am starting 2 visibles and don't want to break one of these things. Thanks, John

Ed wrote: Another way to cut the sealant is to use thin piano wire; this acts as a saw to cut it cleanly (This is used often to remove auto windshields which use a hard
setting adhesive to seal them in). Just carefully push the wire through the adhesive and carefully work it back and forth in a sawing motion, like an old wood crosscut saw. (Body shop suppliers have handles which
you can attach the wire to.)

Larry wrote: I recommend cutting all the cylinder rods with a die grinder cutting wheel if they are rusted and frozen. Trying to break frozen nuts on the long rods puts a lot of stress on the cylinder, especially if the glass is frozen to the lower and upper casting. I use a penetrate called KROIL made by Kano Labs for soaking EVERYTHING prior to disassembly. Patience is the best approach.

Steve Baker wrote: Originally the cylinders were sealed using a mixture of litharge and glycerine. This was mixed into a thick paste and would set up in about two hours or less, depending on the temperature. The only thing I have found to get it out is a dental pick and lots of patience. You can also grind an old hacksaw blade into various scraping tools. Good luck.


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#34938 Mon Jan 28 2002 07:51 PM
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I use a sharpened hacksaw blade and slowly scrape and saw through it.

You can't get a piano wire through this to get the back and forth action mentioned.

Also, cutting rods is risky, I saw a guy do this once only to hear a loud pop about 5 minutes after the last rod was cut. The pop was the glass breaking around the perimeter of the litharge and glycerine mixture.

If you are set on removing the cylinders, go slowly with a saw blade or dental pick.

Be sure to use eye protection and wear a mask. I don't know what the effects of breathing that dust might be but it can't be too good.

Good luck. Let us know what you do and how it turns out.

#34939 Fri Feb 01 2002 05:33 PM
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Jarvis Offline OP
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Morgan:I used a sharpened hacksaw blade and a utility knife and got both cyl. out. I did use some penetrating oil to soften it up a little.


Looking for anything from Hoosier Pete, Platolene 500 and Red Bird.
#34940 Fri Feb 01 2002 06:34 PM
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I recently had a stuborn cylinder that wouldn't budge even after removing the water putty. I used muratic acid which you can get at any hardware store. I soaked the bottom of the cylinder in the acid for a few days (the ring on the casting kept it from running out.) after soaking for several days the cylinder came right out. No prying or anything. The acid didn't hurt the casting or the glass.
The key is to be patient.
Good luck, Chad

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#34941 Sat Feb 02 2002 12:22 AM
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When useing Muratic acid, be sure to wear rubber gloves and eye protection. Use household Baking Soda mixed with water, to neutralize the acid. The acid will eat the rust [potmetal or alum.,will make it BOIL], but not the castiron. DO NOT USE ON GALVANIZE IRON.

#34942 Sat Feb 02 2002 10:28 PM
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Glad you got them out okay. You didn't mention how many blisters you got in the process!!


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