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Ok, its cold out – 42 degrees

I need to paint a T-39 for a client this week and just got the primer shot, sanded and re-shot, re-sanded and ready for paint. Is there anything I need to know as far as tricks for painting PPG Omni Enamel in this kinda coolness with out problems like fisheyes from cold metal?


Travis E. Towle
Topeka, Kansas

785-554-8238 cell
1-800-579-6477 home office

I dont know any tricks except to say that air temperature is not the same as metal temperature and that mae is a three coat coverage in my experience.

ward

You've got to warm that baby up. The hardener will not work below 60 degrees. And that is surface temperature. As solvents evaporate, the surface can be cooler than the air around it.

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Jim "Oldgas" Potts
Your host and moderator

Would it work to bring the panels and paint/hardners in the house and let them warm up for 2 days or so then just before painting heat up the garage with a keroseen heater to about 90 shut down the heater, move in the panels, mix paint and hit the panels?


Travis E. Towle
Topeka, Kansas

I've shot a lot of Omni over the yrs, this time of yr I allow an extra 30 mins between coats unless your shop temp is 75 +. Otherwise you may experience solvent pop(look simuliar to fish eyes) I found this to help on single stage as well as basecoat/clearcoat

Travis,
What Jim is saying is true with catalyzed paints. We always sell hardner with the Omni MAE,but,it can be sprayed without hardner(just won't be as durable a finish). We generally say not below 55 degrees. That is air temperature and surface temperature. Also,that is for several hours after you are through spraying. It is continuing the crosslinking process for several hours after you finish.
Catalyzed paint will eventually dry below 55 degrees but it does not chemically crosslink so you don't have a durable product.Was your primer a 2K primer or 1K?
Also,fisheyes are 99.9% of the time due to a
contaminant such as wax or oil.Cold metal shouldn't cause them.Did you sandblast the metal or just sand it? A lot of people think that if they sand the old paint off they shouldn't have a problem with fisheyes but that's not always the case. Always clean surface first. With sandblasting it shouldn't be a problem.Good luck.Pat.

Travis,
Warming everthing up is your best bet,but if you get metal and room too warm and you are using a fast evaporating reducer,you could get solvent pop.If you are going to use a fan to suck out the paint overspray and fumes,you'll need to get some heat back in the room. Remember,if using a hardner, needs to be at least 55-60 degrees for a few hours afterwards. I think you could probably keep room around 60-65 degrees.Hope this helps.Also use care with that kerosene heater around paint products. Pat

I think that the kerosene heater would REALLY increase the chance of fish eyes.Those things don't burn super clean and theres going to be lots of contaminats blowing around.Much greater chance of runs too with the cold temps.
Joe

Here is what I have done so far:

* panels sand blasted.
* 1 light brush coat yellow zinc / acid etch primer.
* Welded patch panels, ground smooth, sanded whole panel with 36 grit on my angle sander, dolly"d" out dents, wheeled smooth on the E-Wheel, and bondo work done and finished.
* 1 coat yellow zinc / acid etch primer.
* 1 coat of Euro-Fill Buff primer.
* Sanded with orbital 220 dry using guide coat then by hand.
* 1 coat of Euro-Fill Buff primer.
* Sanded with 220 orbital then 220 & 400 dry by hand using guide coat.

I will be using hardener and 40 degree reducer, but will not be using a fan to blow out the room at all and I will be using my good vapor mask, goggles and hvlp gun. I will be using a TON of care around the paint products with the Kero Heater.

I have heard before that Kero Heaters can mess up a paint job pretty badly by putting oil in the air - I am not sure how else to heat my garage??? I pulled the natural gas heater because it was old and venting in the walls. I have not bought my Kero heater yet so there might be a better solution???


Travis E. Towle
Topeka, Kansas

Buy a Propane Construction heater, 200-250,000 BTU, $125. at most major lumber yards etc. they heat up very fast and clean, Again take care and best to move it out of the room when painting, after fumes have settled can be started back up and left on low to maintain a temperature. I did it that way for about 3 years and 15 pumps. Rick

just tack up some plastic in the living room...
I am SURE the wife won't care

High entensity work lights will heat the metal and give you plenty of light too, without having to heat the entire shop.
NO OPEN FLAMES either.

jkyocom,

Painting in the living room - ha ha - have you met my wife? But really I would paint the panels in the basement of the house but because I have a Blue & Gold Macaw Parrot the fumes would kill him off in a second even with an open window and fan - heck you can not even paint new latex on the walls, or use a floor cleaner with perfume scents with him in the house = makes you wonder how those birds stay alive in the wild?

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I will go out this weekend and take a look at the heaters available. So what should I be looking for to use in the garage? Propane or Kerosene Heaters?


Travis E. Towle
Topeka, Kansas

Propane will not give you the odors like the kero will