Primarily Petroliana Shop Talk Forums Shop Talk Petroliana Forums General Petroliana Discussion Restoration of my First Fuel Pump a Wayne model 70

My local automotive paint store was nice enough to call Sherwin Williams and get the Texaco Red paint mixture as the code you find on the internet comes up as a blue now in Sherwin Williams database. They mixed it and instead of me using my paint gun, they are able to put it in spray cans, but guess what…it’s catalyzed paint! There is a plunger that you press on the bottom to pierce the inside of the spray can and it releases the hardener.

Pressing this plunger releases the hardener, then it sprays out as catalyzed paint. It was actually difficult to spray a good pattern though. The trick they told me which actually helped was warm it up. I through the cans on the dash of my truck and the California sun heated em right up. Sprayed a lot better then.

Looks really good. I've had a love-hate relationship with phosphate rust converters (metal prep) over the years, few times I think its caused adhesion problems. When I use it now, I wipe it down after with laquer thinner and usually lick it with a brillo pad. I do really like it when there are little micro pits of rust on the surface but its not something I use all the time.

I know what you mean. It’s great for deep pits that can’t sand out. And cleaning with water over bare metal doesn’t feel right. But I’ve had better adhesion with this rust converter than another I used to use.

The cap and all the little parts are drying, hopefully that’s the last of the red.
Someone before has done some painting on the dials. I’ll try to clean them up.
The mechanical computer was moving, but not great. Many things were stuck. I lubed up everything and it seem to cycle now. Dials stop at zero after reset.

Yeah, washing off metal prep seems odd, that's why I switched to lacquer thinner. Every time I use water it seems to oxidize some.

As far as dials, if the numbers are recessed, I've had some luck just using a broad black sharpie.

That’s a good idea. I’ll try that soon on a car I’m working on.

Last of the small parts bead blasted…

If anyone knows what the original color was for the side plates for the mechanical computer I’d appreciate it. They look like they might’ve been galvanized tin but hard to tell.

I got the pump unstuck, but this motor is still frozen. I’ll drop in some marvel mystery oil and see if it frees up. But in the meantime it’s cleaned and painted.
Ad glass retainers bead blasted and painted,

I’ve got the computer moving good, dials are painted where they will be visible. I’m in a rush to get this together so I can get back to work on a car project, but in the future I’d like to remove the dials and do them right. It just seems like the computer is its own restoration all by itself.

Good news is I finally get to see what the doors look like assembled. I know others have had to do much more work than I to see that, but it still feels like it took forever.
Bad news is I need to order a few more parts. When I took it apart I noticed only two of the glass bezels had bad pitting in the chrome. So I only ordered two. Those pitted ones were built very thick and tough, I believe those might’ve been original or made a very long time ago. The other bezels that aren’t pitted are flimsy and I found are broken. I’m sure they are repros made sometime in the last 40 years. I noticed the two repro bezels I already ordered are even more flimsy than those. Oh well. I always try to use as much of the original parts as possible. I’m even bead blasting and coating the nuts and bolts I took off. I’ll hang onto the original pitted bezels incase rechroming prices ever come down.