Primarily Petroliana Shop Talk Forums Shop Talk Petroliana Forums General Petroliana Discussion Restoration of my First Fuel Pump a Wayne model 70

Well since the ball is rolling I figured it’s time to start the restoration thread. I’ve built classic cars for a long time. I never really caught the bug for a vintage fuel pump until recently. But it sure hit hard. I looked for the right one for a while. Goodguys swap meets, Facebook marketplace place, just couldn’t find one to jump at. But then a friend of my wife’s hired our son to do some tractor work on her land. She showed him some cool stuff on her property to ask him if he’d be interested in taking it in exchange for more tractor work. An old fuel pump was on of them.
My son wasn’t interested in the pump. He took an old semi truck scale because he’s currently restoring a vintage semi truck, along with a 77 trans am. He’s got a bit of a Smokey and the Bandit thing going on.
Anyways, my wife’s friend came over and I fixed her dually for her, and she told me about the pump.
She said her dad used to collect them, he had a million of em and all are long gone. This was the last one she had. She is in her 60s so her dad who has be a while has had this for decades. She said she’d sell it to me as long as I’d fix it up whenever I could.
Anyways the reason why I am talking about her so much is tragedy just struck. I was hoping to restore this in time for her to see it when she comes over for a 4th of July bbq, but sadly last week she, who has been a lifelong horseman, was just bucked off one of her mules. Her neck was broken, and she is currently paralyzed from the neck down. They did surgery but sadly nothing has improved.
It’s bittersweet working in the pump now but I know she’d want work done. She worked everyday all day long. So I promise she’ll see this pump restored. I won’t sell it, it will be nestled between our classic cars.

Here is the pump as found on her property. She accidentally knocked the globe off when trying to move it when I got there. Surprisingly only the plastic cracked. The glass is still fine.

In our garage

Compared to pumps I looked at when trying to find one to restore, many were incomplete or full of mismatched parts. But this one seems pretty complete and not all hacked up.

Orange paint under the Wayne tag on one door, red paint under the Wayne tag on the other door. Most of an old sticker on the backside of the “Contains Lead” porcelain sign.

I’m so glad I fixed up my bead blaster before this.

Does anyone know why these hinges end up rubbing against the frame? I’m assuming the holes the pin goes through get wore out.

Thanks to another member on here I found what all the old holes on the door might be for, they line up perfectly. This wasn’t my first choice to rebrand. I’m actually a Fireman in a large city, been one for the last 26 years. I get enough of Fire stuff at work. The shop is my place to escape, definitely why I live in the country as well. But my wife really wanted this brand. Now that I see the holes match it makes me feel good. My first choice was Frontier or Mohawk, actually my real first choice was Mobilgas Pegasus, oh well, maybe I’ll get to do another one…

nice!

Nice straight pump. Thanks for posting.

Based on the Gas Pump Blue Book, the serial number of your pump falls within the range for 1938 is from 54450 through 72261. I would be surprised if another few pumps don't end up residing next to this one...they always seem to travel in groups.

Thank you for checking that, I really appreciate it!

Always amazed when you sand down to bare metal how much the grease and wax remover wipes off afterwards. I like using this rust converter on rust that can’t be sanded away, and even on bare metal it leaves a nice phosphate coating.

Self etch primer on the bare metal.
The nozzle and globe base are cleaned up. Nozzle valve was locked up, but after getting some oil in, it now moves freely.

Tag couldn’t be perfect but it’s better than before I think.

My local automotive paint store was nice enough to call Sherwin Williams and get the Texaco Red paint mixture as the code you find on the internet comes up as a blue now in Sherwin Williams database. They mixed it and instead of me using my paint gun, they are able to put it in spray cans, but guess what…it’s catalyzed paint! There is a plunger that you press on the bottom to pierce the inside of the spray can and it releases the hardener.

Pressing this plunger releases the hardener, then it sprays out as catalyzed paint. It was actually difficult to spray a good pattern though. The trick they told me which actually helped was warm it up. I through the cans on the dash of my truck and the California sun heated em right up. Sprayed a lot better then.

Looks really good. I've had a love-hate relationship with phosphate rust converters (metal prep) over the years, few times I think its caused adhesion problems. When I use it now, I wipe it down after with laquer thinner and usually lick it with a brillo pad. I do really like it when there are little micro pits of rust on the surface but its not something I use all the time.

I know what you mean. It’s great for deep pits that can’t sand out. And cleaning with water over bare metal doesn’t feel right. But I’ve had better adhesion with this rust converter than another I used to use.

The cap and all the little parts are drying, hopefully that’s the last of the red.
Someone before has done some painting on the dials. I’ll try to clean them up.
The mechanical computer was moving, but not great. Many things were stuck. I lubed up everything and it seem to cycle now. Dials stop at zero after reset.

Yeah, washing off metal prep seems odd, that's why I switched to lacquer thinner. Every time I use water it seems to oxidize some.

As far as dials, if the numbers are recessed, I've had some luck just using a broad black sharpie.

That’s a good idea. I’ll try that soon on a car I’m working on.

Last of the small parts bead blasted…

If anyone knows what the original color was for the side plates for the mechanical computer I’d appreciate it. They look like they might’ve been galvanized tin but hard to tell.

I got the pump unstuck, but this motor is still frozen. I’ll drop in some marvel mystery oil and see if it frees up. But in the meantime it’s cleaned and painted.
Ad glass retainers bead blasted and painted,

I’ve got the computer moving good, dials are painted where they will be visible. I’m in a rush to get this together so I can get back to work on a car project, but in the future I’d like to remove the dials and do them right. It just seems like the computer is its own restoration all by itself.

Good news is I finally get to see what the doors look like assembled. I know others have had to do much more work than I to see that, but it still feels like it took forever.
Bad news is I need to order a few more parts. When I took it apart I noticed only two of the glass bezels had bad pitting in the chrome. So I only ordered two. Those pitted ones were built very thick and tough, I believe those might’ve been original or made a very long time ago. The other bezels that aren’t pitted are flimsy and I found are broken. I’m sure they are repros made sometime in the last 40 years. I noticed the two repro bezels I already ordered are even more flimsy than those. Oh well. I always try to use as much of the original parts as possible. I’m even bead blasting and coating the nuts and bolts I took off. I’ll hang onto the original pitted bezels incase rechroming prices ever come down.