Oldgas.com Home  

Click here for Petro Porcelain Sign auction listings


Home | Help | Events | Auctions | Parts | Pictures | Links | Contact
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#37268 Sun Jul 09 2006 09:33 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,479
Veteran Member
OP Offline
Veteran Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,479
Does anyone know how to remove some hand print rust from some BRAND NEW panels? I have some that I just fit to my antique model T and before I could paint them they started rusting where I handeled them...

I need to remove the rust before priming and painting them.


Travis E. Towle
Topeka, Kansas

785-357-1004

Please use For Sale forums to sell

Please - NO offers to Buy or Sell in this forum category

Statements such as, "I'm thinking about selling this." are considered an offer to sell.
#37269 Sun Jul 09 2006 09:44 PM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,242
Veteran Member
Offline
Veteran Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,242
Travis,

I'm sure you could sand it off or remove it with steel wool, then clean the surface before painting. What I would probably do, though, is use POR15's Marine Clean and Metal Ready (etchant). (available thru your local POR15 rep).

Wes

#37270 Sun Jul 09 2006 10:13 PM
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 69
P
Active Member
Offline
Active Member
P
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 69
Main ingredient in POR 15's metal prep is Phosporic Acid. Can you guess what this cheapskate is thinking?

#37271 Sun Jul 09 2006 10:34 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,479
Veteran Member
OP Offline
Veteran Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,479
I was kinda thinking about a muriatic acid wash. It just kinda scares me about painting over it. I do not need it to react with the paint top coat... Anyone know? I just do not use the POR stuff on any Model T part. I use Centari paints.

Was also thinking about CLR or Vinegar with some steel wool then washing with cold soapy water then hand towel drying. Sit them in the sun a while and then Zinc Prime...

What do you guys think?


Travis E. Towle
Topeka, Kansas

785-357-1004

#37272 Sun Jul 09 2006 11:21 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,272
Likes: 1
Veteran Member
Offline
Veteran Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,272
Likes: 1
Travis sorry to hear about you troubles with the new panels. We use steel wool with a mild acid, like lime juice on the Mustangs.(also great for the Mezcal at the end of the day, just make sure you swallow the worm when you kill the soldier) It doesn't have to be neutralized, just wipe off with clean rag and then use your tack rag. We never use just a primer, instead we shoot with PPG primer/sealer. Protects the metal from rust and is a filler, an added plus is when we lay down the color it seems to flow and flash better and quicker. Oh, I also buy a lot of disposable gloves, not powdered, funny how it cut down on surface rust.(Don't tell my crew but I think most of the hand prints were mine)lol.
Good luck on your project.
Bob
P.S. I know some old bodymen who say that using alcohol is the best thing to kill surface rust. With these guys not sure how much of the alcohol ended up on the rust and how much ended up in them.


Looking for Tide Water/ Tide Water-Associated/ Tidewater items
#37273 Mon Jul 10 2006 07:15 AM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,242
Veteran Member
Offline
Veteran Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,242
I wouldn't use muriatic acid, as just having its vapors around will promote rust in your shop.

It is true, as Peter pointed out, that the main ingredient in POR15's metal etchant is indeed Phosphoric acid.

Now, that does bring up the good point that you can get away cheap by using Naval Jelly, which is basically a non-runny phosphoric acid goo. It's cheap, and available nearly anywhere. I just like the Metal Ready because it's a little less messy. The Naval Jelly does work well though.


On the same subject, you also may want to consider a self-etching primer, which is what I've used in the past on bare metal.

Wes

#37274 Mon Jul 10 2006 07:35 AM
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,806
Likes: 105
Veteran Member
Online Content
Veteran Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,806
Likes: 105
Travis:

If you want to - check with your automotive paint distributor. PPG makes a specific 'panel wash' for slight rust like you have.

The instructions say to dilute it and wash the part - but I just use it straight out of the plastic container and then rinse with a spray bottle of H2O and some toweling.

Of course if I had an entire panel that had started to rust - then I'd follow the instructions. But for a couple of hand prints - just wipe it down until the rust disappears and then rinse.

Make sure to prime immediately afterwards though as the cleaner has just etched the panel and rust will start forming immediately.

Later . . .

Jim


------------------
www.T-waysGraphics.com
Always buying Ethyl Globes, Ethyl Single Lenses & Misc Ethyl Items.

#37275 Mon Jul 10 2006 02:02 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 538
B
Petro Enthusiast
Offline
Petro Enthusiast
B
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 538
I use the por and let it set for 15 min then rinse, blow dry, wax and grease, then self etching primer sealer. it will look terrible after yo rinse and dry but it puts a coating on it. My paint store says thats normal and just prime over it.JM2C
Brandon


Moderated by  Oldgas, Ryan Underthun 

Link Copied to Clipboard

Click here for Gas Pump auction listings

Copyright © 2023 Primarily Petroliana Interactive, All Rights Reserved

Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5