#37268
Sun Jul 09 2006 09:33 PM
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Does anyone know how to remove some hand print rust from some BRAND NEW panels? I have some that I just fit to my antique model T and before I could paint them they started rusting where I handeled them...
I need to remove the rust before priming and painting them.
Travis E. Towle Topeka, Kansas
785-357-1004
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#37269
Sun Jul 09 2006 09:44 PM
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Joined: Apr 2005
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Travis,
I'm sure you could sand it off or remove it with steel wool, then clean the surface before painting. What I would probably do, though, is use POR15's Marine Clean and Metal Ready (etchant). (available thru your local POR15 rep).
Wes
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#37270
Sun Jul 09 2006 10:13 PM
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Joined: Jun 2004
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Main ingredient in POR 15's metal prep is Phosporic Acid. Can you guess what this cheapskate is thinking?
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#37271
Sun Jul 09 2006 10:34 PM
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I was kinda thinking about a muriatic acid wash. It just kinda scares me about painting over it. I do not need it to react with the paint top coat... Anyone know? I just do not use the POR stuff on any Model T part. I use Centari paints.
Was also thinking about CLR or Vinegar with some steel wool then washing with cold soapy water then hand towel drying. Sit them in the sun a while and then Zinc Prime...
What do you guys think?
Travis E. Towle Topeka, Kansas
785-357-1004
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#37272
Sun Jul 09 2006 11:21 PM
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Travis sorry to hear about you troubles with the new panels. We use steel wool with a mild acid, like lime juice on the Mustangs.(also great for the Mezcal at the end of the day, just make sure you swallow the worm when you kill the soldier) It doesn't have to be neutralized, just wipe off with clean rag and then use your tack rag. We never use just a primer, instead we shoot with PPG primer/sealer. Protects the metal from rust and is a filler, an added plus is when we lay down the color it seems to flow and flash better and quicker. Oh, I also buy a lot of disposable gloves, not powdered, funny how it cut down on surface rust.(Don't tell my crew but I think most of the hand prints were mine)lol. Good luck on your project. Bob P.S. I know some old bodymen who say that using alcohol is the best thing to kill surface rust. With these guys not sure how much of the alcohol ended up on the rust and how much ended up in them.
Looking for Tide Water/ Tide Water-Associated/ Tidewater items
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#37273
Mon Jul 10 2006 07:15 AM
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I wouldn't use muriatic acid, as just having its vapors around will promote rust in your shop.
It is true, as Peter pointed out, that the main ingredient in POR15's metal etchant is indeed Phosphoric acid.
Now, that does bring up the good point that you can get away cheap by using Naval Jelly, which is basically a non-runny phosphoric acid goo. It's cheap, and available nearly anywhere. I just like the Metal Ready because it's a little less messy. The Naval Jelly does work well though.
On the same subject, you also may want to consider a self-etching primer, which is what I've used in the past on bare metal.
Wes
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#37274
Mon Jul 10 2006 07:35 AM
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Travis: If you want to - check with your automotive paint distributor. PPG makes a specific 'panel wash' for slight rust like you have. The instructions say to dilute it and wash the part - but I just use it straight out of the plastic container and then rinse with a spray bottle of H2O and some toweling. Of course if I had an entire panel that had started to rust - then I'd follow the instructions. But for a couple of hand prints - just wipe it down until the rust disappears and then rinse. Make sure to prime immediately afterwards though as the cleaner has just etched the panel and rust will start forming immediately. Later . . . Jim ------------------ www.T-waysGraphics.com Always buying Ethyl Globes, Ethyl Single Lenses & Misc Ethyl Items.
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#37275
Mon Jul 10 2006 02:02 PM
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I use the por and let it set for 15 min then rinse, blow dry, wax and grease, then self etching primer sealer. it will look terrible after yo rinse and dry but it puts a coating on it. My paint store says thats normal and just prime over it.JM2C Brandon
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