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i am getting ready to start restoring my third pump. the first two i used pump plates, but on this one im thinking of using decals. does any one have any little tricks for appling them straight ,smooth and without air bubbles i've never used decals before so any help would be nice thanks

It depends on if you are talking about water release or vinyl. The vinyl, the key is to spray the area that you are going to apply the decal to with windex and then spray the decal as you remove the paper backing, then place it on the pump and you should be able to move them around quite easily, then get yourself a squeegee, hold the decal in place and begin pushing the liquid from behind it after a few passes you will feel the decal getting itself stuck to the surface, lightly dry liquid from the area and there you have it. My suggestion is if you can get an extra decal just in case. We apply probably 100 per week this way on different products and it works. As far as water release, unless you plan to clear them in, STAY AWAY from them, you will not be satisfied. Hope this helps.
Zach

Zach is right on with his response. I've done thousands of vinyl decals too, but I'm cheap. I put a little bit of dishwashing detergent in the spray bottle of water to get my solution. Works fine and evaporates less quickly. 3M sells a black rubber squeege that works well or you can use a body filler spreader that is unused and smooth. Position the decal first. Then squeege using light pressure with strokes from the middle out to the edge to draw moisture and bubbles out.
Be sure that the paint has fully cured. Putting vinyl decals on the same day or next day has caused problems with locked-in solvents.
Water transfer decals can be tricky. They have the strength of wet Kleenex while you are working with them. But they can have a nice, thin and original look. Clearing over a fully dry water transfer decal will protect it greatly.

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Jim "Oldgas" Potts
Your host and moderator

David:

Zach's procedure is good if you don't have confidence in your ability to attach the vinyl decal level/plumb - or if you are doing production like they are and 'Time is Money'.

I place the door(s) on a horizontal surface and clean the area for the decal with an ammonia-based cleaner first.

Then I use a China Marker to establish the centerline of the door and draw a VERY LIGHT line from above where the decal goes to below.

Now take the decal - with the backing paper still on it - an carefully fold the left and right edges towards each other and just pinch the very top and bottom of the vinyl decal to establish the top and bottom centerline.

Now place the decal (with the backing paper still on it) on the door(s) with the centerline of the decal on the centerline of the door. Once you are happy with the placement 'top to bottom', tape one side of the decal with a long single strip of masking tape to the door, being careful to keep the centerline aligned. Fold the decal back and re-clean the surface of the door to remove any fingerprints and the centerline your drew earlier. Remove the centerline to just above and just below the decal. You still want some line on the door to help you make sure you're 'in line' as you attach the decal.

Now flop the decal over using the tape as a hinge and peel back the release paper from the opposite side of the decal. Peel the release paper back about half-way and cut it off. Holding the edge of the 'open' side off the door with one hand, and using the other hand, slowly start smoothing the decal to the door. Start with the tape edge and work across the part of the decal with the release paper still on it to the part that is 'open'. This way, you are working from the center to the edge of the open portion. Go slow and try not to get any bubbles under the decal as you lightly press it to the door. Once you have gone over the entire open section, go back and firmly work the decal to the door - moving from the center to the edges and working any remaining air out from underneath.

Now remove the masking tape and flop the decal back over the portion that is already attached. Remove the remaining backing paper and repeat the smoothing proceedure from the opposite side - working from the center to the edges.

Large bubbles should not be present when your finished - but if they are, use just the tip of a razor blade/exacto knife to puncture the vinyl at the edge of a bubble and work out the air with your finger. Small bubbles will dissappear in a week or so.

Clean up the rest of the China Marker line and your done!

later . . .

Jim





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http://www.vintage-logos.com

THANKS FOR THE IDEAS !!!!!!!! this site is great,everyone is very helpful

I add 1-2 drops of GLYCERIN USP [drug stores carry it] to 12oz [silver bullet/soda can] of water. When I transfer water slide decals. It dries clear. Sometimes when using soap in your water, it leaves a milky discoloring.

Most of the time I apply my decal to a magnetic sign material. Looks more like a sign, when you silcone the heads of screws on. Also, I can change the branding of the pump ANYTIME, without damaging the paint.

PLUS, you can have several beers before/during application !!

Dick

[This message has been edited by Dick Bennett (edited 09-17-2004).]

The soapy water works and I would say that this is a must. Either type of decal. Use enough that it doesn't dry up as you are working. When working the liquid out from under the decal start from the middle going out and TAKE YOUR TIME. Work carefully and keep in mind the decal may slip around while you first start squeeging it. Use a paper towel to dry the edges as you are working it. It takes several minutes to work the liquid from under it.
I just did two water release Shell decals successfully. Whew.

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ROD [Mich.]

Has anyone here ever tried clear coating over a vinyl? We are thinking about trying it on pumps we are doing now.
-Mike

I have seen it done with mixed results. The vinyl can absorb some of the clear coat solvents. After the finish fully cures over time, there can be enough shrinkage to cause a tiny crack at the edge of the decal. The variable could be how aggresive the solvents are in the clear finish. Some clears really dig in to the base, some not so much.

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Jim "Oldgas" Potts
Your host and moderator