Primarily Petroliana Shop Talk Forums Shop Talk Petroliana Forums General Petroliana Discussion sandblasting a pump ,cost and what to watch out for etc.

What does it cost to have a pro sand blast a pump. Any warnings that I would need to be aware of would be appreciated. This is for a Tokheim 300. I also have a Bennett 86 that I didn't send a pictue to Jack so that's why there isn't an Bennett 86 in his book. The 300 is easier to start with but not many parts for the 86. Jack I'll send you one this time.

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Rick Be real careful about sandblasting the sheetmetal panels. If they use to much pressure it will warp them big time. I restore alot of pumps and have all mine acid dipped. The panels and framework look like new metal when i get them back. That stuff works great! Cost for all the panels and frame runs around $75.00. Cheap! Just don't do any aluminum or brass or it will eat it up to nothing. Good Luck

I agree. Use the acid dip NOT sandblasting.

Rick, I have done both acid and blasting and I prefer the blasting. First of all watch out for "commercial" blasting verses "auto" blasting. Commercial uses very high pressure and will warp or eat away thin spots. "Auto" uses a special mat'l that will cut off the paint. This place can even blast the early style corvettes that is how good it is, but it cost about $200 to blast a short pump because it does take longer to do. The blasters like at Habor freight are a commercial style blast and to me these are junk. Acid... They say you can just take it home and paint it. Wrong, you must really clean it and I scuff it because the paint will not stick. Nothing sucks more than a nice paint job and then to have the paint flake off in spots. I have friends that are into tractors and some into cars and one might do only blast and another might only do dipping but I have tried both and I will blast unless it is really rusty then dip.

Zip, Wow I just saw your $75 for dipping! That would be worth it. I had an air meter dipped and it cost me $72. I was afraid to have a pump priced out for dipping. To me $75 is cheap and would only dip. I bought a pump that a guy had dipped and primmered then quit. It sat for 4 years or so and there are some areas that acid had run down after the primmer was on and I am going to have to strip the hole thing because he didn't prep it. By the way guys ... take the pumps completely apart every screw and bolt because it will pay off in the long run. Also paint the inside as nice as the outside since you go this far it won't cost a few dollars more and to me it shows some good craftsmanship and time goes into it. A coat of paint on the outside and a repo globe and signs is not a restoration.

We have a local blaster here that charges only $10 per panel.That's only 50.00 for a complete pump!He uses extreme caution with fragile items and we have trusted him with parts ranging from wayne 60 and clockface pumps to body panels from our car restorations.Find a good blaster who knows how to use different medias and air pressures and you won't be sorry.By the way Jarvis,$72 for an airmeter strip? You could have bought a gallon of aircraft stripper for $22 and done it yourself.It's available at all the auto swap meets,and works great on small items.

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I won't dip unless it is a must. tjhvintage, I though $72 was high but wanted to try it out. I wasn't going to use the home method since I've been down that road before and that was not fun. I know all the "junk" i have has about 5 coats of paint like that air meter had 4 coats. I won't strip one by hand ... if it cost $200 to blast one well I will have more in my pumps than you guys.

I'll add my 2 cents. There are 2 basic types of blasting, sand and plastic media. Sand uses different grades of media to remove paint, rust and other nasties. Plastic media is used to remove paint only and is not good for rust. We have a do-it-yourself blaster here that works pretty good ($72/hr) and another that will do a pump for around $85.
You need to be careful or panels will warp from the heat.

Acid dipping is another option. The problem is that the acid can leech out if the part is not thoroughly rinsed after dipping. This is more of a problem on parts with many cracks and crevices. Most flat panels should not have this problem. Either technique works, the choice is up to you.

Greg

Here is an option I use. Neither sandblasting or dipping. I use a high speed wire brush after disassembling the pump. It removes paint and rust and allows me to spot any dings/low spots that can be corrected. It is time consuming, but I can strip a pump in a day. It usually takes more time than that to deliver a pump to a sandblaster/dipper and for them to do the job. After wire brushing the panels, I will then hand sand. Every inch of the pump is gone over for a quality job. The DeWalt knotted brushes run around $15...pretty inexpensive as only one brush will do the job.

I'll have to tell you my experience with sandblasting. I took a really straight Wayne Cut 615 to a friend to get painted. (He does super work) He took the pump to HIS buddy to get commercially blasted. When he was all done, painting the panels individually, I brought it all home to put together. Man, the skins were so darn warped I had a heck of a time. I know you can get new skins, but I wanted this pump to be 100% original and it was a beauty to start with. I would be real afraid of blasting on my next pump!!!!

I guess I'll add my opinion. I work part-time for monument company (granite). I have them blast my panels and frame of my pump. The medium they use is silica. They reduce their pressure so they won't warp the panels. If you stay in one place to long it creates a lot of heat. Therefore you must constantly move your nozzle and not concentrate on one spot to long. Their was disagreement among two of my co-workers, one said it would warp the other said no. I agreed with the no answer and the panels came out great. It all depends who is doing the work.

Hi Zips, what is the name and address for the dipper you use in Iowa, it sounds reasonable and I'm not that far away. Thanks for the tip.

Jarvis... I would like to comment on your statement "A coat of paint on the outside and a repo globe and signs is not a restoration." I really don't want to open, what I'm sure is an old thread... but as someone who does hes own restoration work... (I consider my paintings amateur...) I laugh at the people who spend big bucks on repainting and the dealers who haul their punps around only to get them chiped and scratched. These pumps are better then when they were sold new so whats the point....their over restored and thats not a restoration!

Fueluser, What I meant was people who scuff up an old pump and spray bomb it, put a globe and hose and sign or actually spray it with a gun but do a bad job. Think of a pump as a 1957 chevy car. The better the pump looks the more value it has. you said "These pumps are better then when they were sold new so what's the point" The old cars fall in this same category. A restoration is taking completely apart, stripping, painting, rechroming, polish all stainless, and all new signs, globe, hose and etc. To me there is no difference between an amateur and a pro because if an amateur does a really nice job well then is he a pro?

Bob,

There is a parts stripper in Union Grove (Racine area). I will try to get a phone number for you. It's closer than Iowa but I don't know their price.

Jaris,

I spray bombed my Wayne 500. It sits outside in the elements and still looks pretty good after 4 years. Then again I know I won't get, or ask big bucks for it either. My M&S 80 and Wayne 480 will get better treatment. Face it though, only the true collector will care if the insides are perfect. Most people think they are cool and that's all that really counts, saving a bit of history.

GAM